Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Okay, this is not quite 4WD tech but it is about paint which everyone needs to know about.

I have a Triumph Stag that I have been tidying up off and on for a while now, which has your typical 1970s wooden dash parts eg:



(that pic is not from mine, just an example).

I am not a fan of wood grain, and I am going for more of a sporty look than the "elegant" look anyway, so I want to paint those parts in a charcoal or metallic grey kind of colour, but not have them look amateurish. I want to do it myself so I can do a custom fascia for the stereo, heater controls etc which I have altered a fair bit from the original.

Is there a kind of paint that would do this job? I figure I should be able to use a spray filler, very fine sandpaper, and then the right paint product to get a good effect.

Any suggestions?

what ever colour you use go matt.

gloss looks gayer than aids.

Nick

I don't think I want it matte, but I agree not a full-on gloss effect. Maybe a satin or a gloss that's not too high. Dunno, that is why I am hoping for suggestions.

I reckon your best bet will be trial and error. get a few samples of the type of wood you are going to use then a few different paint finishes and try. The preparation will be the big difference I reckon.

So after all that I have offered no help sorry

If it's actual wood your painting and not plastic (imitation wood grain) and it's previously sealed then you can treat it like normal metal eg just give it a light rub down and prime and paint. Make sure you don't rub though the sealer that's already on the wood though other wise it will need resealing or it's like trying to spray a foam mattress, it will just absorb the paint.

Another thing don't force dry the paint and don't put it in the sun to dry. If you do air thats trapped under the sealer can try and escape causing the wood to blister.

Cheers Mick.

Mick. wrote:If it's actual wood your painting and not plastic (imitation wood grain) and it's previously sealed then you can treat it like normal metal eg just give it a light rub down and prime and paint. Make sure you don't rub though the sealer that's already on the wood though other wise it will need resealing or it's like trying to spray a foam mattress, it will just absorb the paint.

Another thing don't force dry the paint and don't put it in the sun to dry. If you do air thats trapped under the sealer can try and escape causing the wood to blister.

Cheers Mick.

Thanks Mick... it's not really sealed though. There was a clear laqcuer on it but it has become very flaky on most of the parts. So it will probably be the raw (but old wood) that I end up painting. Or should I just remove the flaky lacquer and fill the gaps or something maybe... ?

if it is timber you can sand it back and use a good quality 2 pac sealer eg. Miratone. with a coloured pigment mixted at roughly 15% then cover with a gloss vanish for your glossy look... if not a satin ect ... but make sure its a 2 pac vanish.
cheers al

how would it go to give it a good sand with 100-120 grit, then apply a thin layer of bog to seal it and to get rid of the grain effect. then paint over this. Might be cheaper than sealant.

would it be better to get some perspex cut to size?, or even trim up some ply to suit? rather than try work with an old canvas?

Sealer would not chip off like bog might. but its to do with budget. sealer and pigment is definetly a more expensive way to go.
cheers

I would sand it thoroughly then use a spray on grain filler, sand it back and then have it sprayed with 2pak polyurethane.

I had 2nd hand solid timber kitchen doors painted with 2pack polyurethane, they came up looking brand new, with a slight grainy pattern still visible, looked trick, and heaps of people commented on the finish.
I sanded them so the surface of the old finish was well 'keyed' (remove glossy surface) and smooth and consistent.
From what you describe, you would probably need to sand it all back to a consistent bare timber surface. Patches of varnish, and patches of timber will show through as an inconsistent quality of finish because the rate of absorption and drying time will be different. It s better to remove old varnish anyway coz there can be problems with poor adhesion when painting over varnishes and the edges of patches of varnish can 'fry up' from the solvents in new paint too.

if you like a grainy appearance just sand, prime and paint with polyurethane. If you want it smoother use a spray on grain filler, then sand and repeat if needed.
2pack Polyurethane can be mixed to whatever color and gloss level you want and is tough as. you can clean it down with metho or turps and it will withstand being outdoors to a degree. Timber is a natural product which means changes in the weather will make it move and shrink and expand which can cause cracking, particularly if peices are joined with internal 90* corners.
on a timber base, polyurethane can crack if you bump it enough to dent the timber


One question, and Im not knocking your Stag Chimpboy, what makes the stags special? I reckon they ugly

chimpboy wrote:

Mick. wrote:If it's actual wood your painting and not plastic (imitation wood grain) and it's previously sealed then you can treat it like normal metal eg just give it a light rub down and prime and paint. Make sure you don't rub though the sealer that's already on the wood though other wise it will need resealing or it's like trying to spray a foam mattress, it will just absorb the paint.

Another thing don't force dry the paint and don't put it in the sun to dry. If you do air thats trapped under the sealer can try and escape causing the wood to blister.

Cheers Mick.

Thanks Mick... it's not really sealed though. There was a clear laqcuer on it but it has become very flaky on most of the parts. So it will probably be the raw (but old wood) that I end up painting. Or should I just remove the flaky lacquer and fill the gaps or something maybe... ?

I'd just sand that off where you have to and then reseal the whole job with a spray on wood sealer. Then i'd just spray a couple of coats of normal 2 pack primer over that.

Cheers Mick.