Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok I've got my 2" BL in now and 31's pro comps on and as expected it rubs like a mo fo on the front bumper I knew it would but what is the best way to deal with it in everyone's opinion

I have to get rid of the tube in the front behind the bumper I'm guessing

I can think of a no. of half ass fixes but I'm more inclined to buy an overkill tube winch bar and do it right Where exactly do they mount Overkill Mum Anyone

i cut the tubes off and the ends of my front bumper so that it's a few inches wider than the chassis. i made a bracket to mount the bumper to the stock chassis holes. it was cheap and protects pedestrians to some extent. i moved the indicators behind the grill - probably illegal though.

Mine are cut as flush as possible to the chassis (allowing for the front body mounts that come off the chassis there too).

The overkill bar is most probably designed like all others to mount to the two chassis rails - allowing for the fact that everyone cuts those two tubes off to fit the bigger tyres in there.

did the same on mine recently, left an inch or two from the chassis rail and put fence post capping on it, looks almost factory

legally (in nsw anyway) ya don't have to run a bumper so long as the blinkers and number plate are secured in a similar location as they were originally. mine are held on with cable ties (not legal, lol), but if ya make up brackets and screw everything in it makes a good temporary fix

bar is better tho, i'm just too poor at the moment the overkill ones mount to the chassis, and they can make em to cater for the bodylift

i cut the tubes off about 2" out from the chassis, welded on some brackets to bolt on the original bumper (1 1/2" higher 1" forward to go with B/L)
had to fold seams in wheel arches as well

Option 'B' is to stuff either a porta power or a bottle jack between the tube and your front bump stop mount and push the tubes forward a couple of inches. You can do it with the bumper still attatched and can move it plenty far enough to run 31".

Rangie Wrecker wrote:Option 'B' is to stuff either a porta power or a bottle jack between the tube and your front bump stop mount and push the tubes forward a couple of inches. You can do it with the bumper still attatched and can move it plenty far enough to run 31".

I think thats a tad bit ruff, I gather MJ doesn't plan to run the standard bumper.

MJ You could unpick the welds and remove the whole crossmember (Like me) then you'd have no excuse for rears up front

bigsteve wrote:

Rangie Wrecker wrote:Option 'B' is to stuff either a porta power or a bottle jack between the tube and your front bump stop mount and push the tubes forward a couple of inches. You can do it with the bumper still attatched and can move it plenty far enough to run 31".

I think thats a tad bit ruff, I gather MJ doesn't plan to run the standard bumper.

MJ You could unpick the welds and remove the whole crossmember (Like me) then you'd have no excuse for rears up front

Yeah I'm not retaining the front bumper, looks to tuff for the road
I might use the push out method as an interem thing though, it is rough though

mj wrote:

bigsteve wrote:

Rangie Wrecker wrote:Option 'B' is to stuff either a porta power or a bottle jack between the tube and your front bump stop mount and push the tubes forward a couple of inches. You can do it with the bumper still attatched and can move it plenty far enough to run 31".

I think thats a tad bit ruff, I gather MJ doesn't plan to run the standard bumper.

MJ You could unpick the welds and remove the whole crossmember (Like me) then you'd have no excuse for rears up front

Yeah I'm not retaining the front bumper, looks to tuff for the road
I might use the push out method as an interem thing though, it is rough though

Just cut the tube off and cable tie the indicators to the grill, if you look at the pics in gen chit chat under cruiserkana you can see how gregs and mine are mounted.

Steve