Since it has to be pushed forward, instead of pulled back, I'm not sure how best to put a cable system in to achieve this. Anyone able to show me how there is or provide any ideas or tips?
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2H mechanical engine stop/fuel cut
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2H mechanical engine stop/fuel cut
I've got a 2H engine with this on the fuel pump to cut off the fuel to stop the engine:
Since it has to be pushed forward, instead of pulled back, I'm not sure how best to put a cable system in to achieve this. Anyone able to show me how there is or provide any ideas or tips?
Since it has to be pushed forward, instead of pulled back, I'm not sure how best to put a cable system in to achieve this. Anyone able to show me how there is or provide any ideas or tips?
I suppose it's an option if I can find one. But wouldn't this mechanical set up likely to be a bit more reliable and less chance of breaking down or playing up on me?dogbreath_48 wrote:Is simply fitting an original EDIC motor an option? That way you also get the automatic overfuel on startup...
At the end of the day, the utes not going to be a daily driver, it'll just be used to tow the boat short distances and fun in the mud.
I also have a 2H in my truck that has mechanical stop and fuel over injection for start up.There is a bit of bush mechanics to get it set up though.Need to fit a longer arm to the actuator arm on the pump.Need to fabricate two cable holding brackets.Need to mount cables to pull from both sides.Need a fairly long cable to pull from the front,possibly a custom made.
Still my truck is proof that it can be done and works.Have been told though that it now does not meet ADR specs any more.
Cheers
Still my truck is proof that it can be done and works.Have been told though that it now does not meet ADR specs any more.
Cheers
Hybrid rover ute. Isuzu diesel. Custom suspension. Winch. Snorkel etc. etc.
Any chance of photos of your set up please?Dyna Beast wrote:I also have a 2H in my truck that has mechanical stop and fuel over injection for start up.There is a bit of bush mechanics to get it set up though.Need to fit a longer arm to the actuator arm on the pump.Need to fabricate two cable holding brackets.Need to mount cables to pull from both sides.Need a fairly long cable to pull from the front,possibly a custom made.
Still my truck is proof that it can be done and works.Have been told though that it now does not meet ADR specs any more.
Cheers
Use a long choke or bonnet release cable (solid core type)remove the cable from the outer then coat in marine grease reinstall it then slide the whole cable assy inside a piece of 1/4 plastic air brake hose (to keep dust and water out).
fit a return spring on the eng so it is spring loaded to run position you may need to fab a limit stop
then you simply pull the cable to stop the eng
I have made many cables this way and they last ,never letting me down
total cost under $25
thrashlux
fit a return spring on the eng so it is spring loaded to run position you may need to fab a limit stop
then you simply pull the cable to stop the eng
I have made many cables this way and they last ,never letting me down
total cost under $25
thrashlux
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
that would be a wiring headache unless you had one originally.
Some early ones I beleive did not have an EDIC, atleast my Toyota manual says as much. Could be an overseas thing though.
Some early ones I beleive did not have an EDIC, atleast my Toyota manual says as much. Could be an overseas thing though.
At first I thought it was a sea anemone, upon closer inspection I realised it was a funky ball of tits from outer space.
It would be for me. My brother hooked it all up and added a factory tacho... Neat as!cruiser60series wrote:that would be a wiring headache unless you had one originally.
Some early ones I beleive did not have an EDIC, atleast my Toyota manual says as much. Could be an overseas thing though.
hands and mums dont count!!!
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