Outer Limits 4x4 Board

To anyone who has used Ben T's adaptor kit to put a G16 into a sierra, did you use the original cover plate (top half, same basic shape as adaptor) as well? I didn't for the mock fit up and ended up with gaps either side of my starter (which is out of a mitsu). Engine is back out now and I was just wondering whether to use the plate or fill the gaps some other way. My only concern is the amount of spacing between the block and bellhousing (about 8 mm) by using both plates and the effect it will have on the clutch throw. Just for reference i'm putting a g16 mpfi into an 89 sj50 wt. Hope this makes sense and that I've posted this in the right place.

Thanks in advance

Bronson

u mean the orig 1.3 spacer plate?

Nah i didnt use it in my conversion.

I did reuse the original 1.3 gbox clutch cover too.

is it the orig started that came with the motor? There are two starters also i believe for the g16mpfi.

Yeah the original plate, the top one that is about 1-2mm thick. It provides better dust protection than the new adaptor. This may only be because of the starter I am using which is out of a sigma or colt i think. It has the same bolt pattern and spigot offset but a slightly longer reach which I corrected with a spacer plate i had made up. Turns the engine over fine. Only problem being a couple of gaps between the starter and block where the starter bolts to the adaptor. The original spacer plate covers these. I might have to include it and just see how my clutch feels when I get it firing. I couldn't get hold of the slimmer zuk starter for my conversion, the one that came with my mpfi was identical to the sierra one and i'm not overly confident in my abilities with the grinder!!

I turned my existing starter down on the lathe and linished the outer caps/housings

I did not use the existing 1mm backing plate. As i have gaps up top, as well as im missing the cover plate for the gearbox anyway so you can see the flywheel spinning!

And it doesn't worry it all?? Having the gaps I mean. I guess I could patch the gaps with silicone maybe just to keep the larger stuff out cos I don't imagine it's an overly waterproof setup to begin with.

dont seal it completely! the dust from the clutch has to come out somehow!

Unsealed it is!! Thanks matey, one less thing to worry about. Just have to wait for my new flywheel to turn up (a few of the teeth looked a little suspect on the old one) and i start the final fit up. Cheers!

Bronson

Ive had mine in mud and water goes fine.

The clutch has locked up once dry! (well stuck on flywheel) with old clutch and old motor 1yr ago.

there is also a hole in the top l/h side of the bell housing,(R/H side if looking from engine bay!) just behind the ex manifold/extractors..i think there was a rubber cap over it at one stage,but mines gone.clutch dust etc could also escape there...
i would be putting the plate back in,as you will get much more crap/mud/silt/sand thruogh the bottom of the block than the top!!
you are just trying to avoid pulling the engine back out,you poor sole..
If its worth doing once,Its worth doing twice..

I didnt use the original spacer plate either when i made up my own adapter. If you have gaps around the starter, you could just use a grinder and chop down the original spacer plate until it fits nicely and doesn't interfere with the block.