Outer Limits 4x4 Board

can anyone help please.l have a patrol and wish to add another another evaporator that can be turned on seperatly ,can this be done

plumb in a complete air con system and gas it up will work(electrics of coarse). I have seen under dash units installed in the rear working fine as they just need high and low lines and a power supply.only drama is it will always work when front is on without a supply line shut of valve

I have two cars that have rear AC setups..
60 Sahara & Hiace Super Custom (import).

They both run one pump, one dryer, one condenser and two evaporators.
The rear is controlled by a solenoid to allow or stop gas flow.
All the parts you need should be available cheaply from the wreckers out of a 60 Sahara or import Hiace, LiteAce or Tarago(Regius).

Jas.

Pajero exceeds have the rear set up as well so that may be another source for parts

Hi roof Patrols and some Ti's also had this.

Info in workshop manual.

Depending on your needs, just about any car could be a donor. AFAIK the tx valve on the evaporator controls the flow through it, so as long as your compressor has enough grunt, you will get cooling at both evaporators.

So, you go to pick-a-part and grab a small one in its housing from a barina or swift or some other small car, along with the blower fan, and plumb it in. You just need to set it up so the blower is on a low speed when the a/c is switched on (you have to have at least minimal airflow).

In most jap cars the blower is right next to the a/c evaporator, above the passenger's feet. So these two components would basically make a box that you could bolt in whereever you liked. Heck you could grab the heater as well and work that in if you wanted to.

I do not know how you'd plumb in a shut-off valve but I would think that if you just keep the fan on low for the rear when you don't want it running hard, you probably don't need it. It's just a case of having a good enough compressor, which you will need either way.

chimpboy wrote:Depending on your needs, just about any car could be a donor. AFAIK the tx valve on the evaporator controls the flow through it, so as long as your compressor has enough grunt, you will get cooling at both evaporators.

So, you go to pick-a-part and grab a small one in its housing from a barina or swift or some other small car, along with the blower fan, and plumb it in. You just need to set it up so the blower is on a low speed when the a/c is switched on (you have to have at least minimal airflow).

In most jap cars the blower is right next to the a/c evaporator, above the passenger's feet. So these two components would basically make a box that you could bolt in whereever you liked. Heck you could grab the heater as well and work that in if you wanted to.

I do not know how you'd plumb in a shut-off valve but I would think that if you just keep the fan on low for the rear when you don't want it running hard, you probably don't need it. It's just a case of having a good enough compressor, which you will need either way.

Imagine heater lines running the length of the car?
Fair bit of extra capacity!

bj on roids wrote:
Imagine heater lines running the length of the car?
Fair bit of extra capacity!

All the better to cool the engine!

my import shorty safari had a rear heater built into the centre console. when i was fiddling one day i flicked the lever to allow coolant to flow. i was wondering why my left leg was burning, the pipes run down the transmission tunnel next to where i rest my left leg. i disconnected them the next day.

I have been looking into retro fitting the front/rear system from a GU Ti into my TD42 ST.

From looking at the service manuals the following needs to be done:

• 1. Climate control united added to the front (the diesel patrols seem to be missing some of the engine bay wiring for temperature sensor which I need to add)
  2. Rear control panel needs to be added to the centre console
  3. Rear cooling unit needs to be added to the left rear inner guard
  4. Plumbing to the roof and vent holes cut in the rear roof panel
  5. Plumbing to rear unit

Priced all of the main components from the local wreckers and was around the $400 mark.

- David.

Dirty wrote:I have been looking into retro fitting the front/rear system from a GU Ti into my TD42 ST.

From looking at the service manuals the following needs to be done:

• 1. Climate control united added to the front (the diesel patrols seem to be missing some of the engine bay wiring for temperature sensor which I need to add)
  2. Rear control panel needs to be added to the centre console
  3. Rear cooling unit needs to be added to the left rear inner guard
  4. Plumbing to the roof and vent holes cut in the rear roof panel
  5. Plumbing to rear unit

Priced all of the main components from the local wreckers and was around the $400 mark.

- David.

David, the Ti also has different rear window glass and interior trim panel to accomodate the extra stuff which mounts in next to the C pillar. So better add at least the rear interior trim into your list. The glass wouldn't be required - just blank out the clear section of your existing stuff I reckon.

chimpboy wrote:Depending on your needs, just about any car could be a donor. AFAIK the tx valve on the evaporator controls the flow through it, so as long as your compressor has enough grunt, you will get cooling at both evaporators.

So, you go to pick-a-part and grab a small one in its housing from a barina or swift or some other small car, along with the blower fan, and plumb it in. You just need to set it up so the blower is on a low speed when the a/c is switched on (you have to have at least minimal airflow).

In most jap cars the blower is right next to the a/c evaporator, above the passenger's feet. So these two components would basically make a box that you could bolt in whereever you liked. Heck you could grab the heater as well and work that in if you wanted to.

I do not know how you'd plumb in a shut-off valve but I would think that if you just keep the fan on low for the rear when you don't want it running hard, you probably don't need it. It's just a case of having a good enough compressor, which you will need either way.

You could easily get a 12Vdc solinoid valve (they come with both flare and solder joins) from a refrigeration supplier and run it off a dash switch.

Yom,

The $400 was for all the bits that I wanted, so thanks, I will make sure I also grab that.

- David.

Dirty wrote:Yom,

The $400 was for all the bits that I wanted, so thanks, I will make sure I also grab that.

- David.

DO us a favour and keep us posted on the job, as it's interesting.