Page 1 of 1

How the hell do you fit 35" tyres

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 10:47 am
by ca18escort
Guys,
Looking at the picks of the Pajero's with the 35's has got the old brain ticking over. I have looked at the sig lines and it says that you guys have 2" body lift and 2" suspension lift. Now I have done the full torsion bar lift on the front of the triton (I still haven't fitted the ball joint spacers) and I am only just clearing 32" tyres will the 2" body lift really me that extra bit that I need to clear a set of 35's? Or is it that the Tritons have a different front wheel arch?

Cheers
Paul

RE

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 11:23 am
by Grantw
35's were too easy on my new paj. Becuase its a 3.5L it has a 40mm?factory body lift. Combine that with the extra suspension lift (nearly 60mm) and the 50mm body lift I installed and you can see how it sits in the clouds. The guards on my NL (3.5L) are flared and I do believe are more cut out than the older shape.

Go for a 3 inch body lift and you could squeeze em under.. But 3inch body lift is not legal in Qld!!!

Just remember....You will need gearing to match because they are bloody big feet!

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 11:30 am
by Thor
sorry to hijack but what are you doing about gearing grant?
have you looked at getting stuff from japan? from that js root site you'd think everything for the paj is available over there..

RE

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 12:24 pm
by Grantw
I have lined myself up with a set of 4.9's. Wished i could get the 5.29's but front airlocker is not compatible with em. The 4.9's should make a bit of a difference. I believe it to be like driving on 31's again. At present, with the 35's, i am doing 2100RPM at 100kmh. Keeps dropping down to 3rd so I cant wait to get em in.

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 2:12 pm
by Ian Sharpe
Hey grant,

is yours an auto or manual.

I did the 4.90 ratio swap & IMO was a waste of money, but then again I'm running standard tyres.

did you get new rims for the 35s or did they go on the standard rims??

how did you go with the diff lock switch??

cheers

RE

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 2:46 pm
by Grantw
Its an auto. I got myself a set of 16x8 alloys to put my 35's on. I have a set of 33x10.5's on my factory alloys as roadies. As for the locker switch, well i threw in the towel after getting the poos with the wiring and finding out that i did not have the ecu anyway. Went and bought the arb switch and all done in 1 hour. WOrks a treat.

As for the 4.9's, I am trying to get the vehicle back to standard gearing so to speak. With the 35's on, i need to drop back a little to get the drivability back. Its not a huge problem but i feel sorry for the auto as its gonna cop a floggin. :cry:

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 2:47 pm
by Grantw
Plus, I am only running 4.6's at present anyway!!

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 6:26 pm
by Bitsamissin
Not sure on the early model V6 Triton clearance.
My 93 Paj has a 2" body lift and 2.5" suspension lift achieved by chopping the upper bumpstops and cranking the torsion bars also rear raised springs were used.
I have no scraping of the 34" JT2's (measure out at 34.6") at the rear and only the slightest rubbing at the front if I bounce into a hole too hard.
Before the 2" body lift I had 33x12.5" BFG muds and the same scenario no scraping at all on the rear and only on the front if I went hard into a hole and compress the front suspension too hard.
Mines a GLS so has the flared guards so you loose a tad of clearance because of the plastic.
Grant's swb has a factory 35mm body lift over mine so his will run 33"s bog standard.
I would say if your rubbing with 32"s there's not as much room under the guards as a Paj so with a 2" b/l will run 33"s but will need some guard trimming to go up to a 35".

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 11:47 pm
by Tom
Hi,
Do you need engeener certificate or so to do size changes of tyres. In Spain I need one to to 31x10.50 R15 from 235 75 R15.
Regards.

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 10:15 am
by ca18escort
Thanks Frank, I am trying to work out some of the bugs that I have at the moment as I want to enter the next round og ASCC here in T'ville as there are Mitsu's around up here. I know that the Triton is not the be all and end all but it is reasonably capable. I will get the Body lift in and borrow Lukes 35's to see if they are going to fit. I have flares extensions on mine also so that might also be the problem. I will have a better look soon. I am making a custom tray for the back so the rear isn't a problem.

Cheers
Paul

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 2:15 pm
by MKarmyshev
Grantw wrote:Plus, I am only running 4.6's at present anyway!!


Is it required to regear to 4.9 from 4.636 if I will be running 35s on 2.8TDI A/T?

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 4:26 pm
by Gonzo

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 6:21 pm
by cookie monster
Hey guys
does the 2.8td nl lwb have the factory 35mm body lift blocks?
cookie monster

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 6:45 pm
by Bitsamissin
Mike I would say with an auto the 2.8TDI will run a lot better with 4.90's all Gen 2 2.8TDI's (lwb & SWB) in Aus all had 4.90's (we only got the 5sp).

Yes Cookie all 2.8TDI's & 3.5V6's have the 35mm factory body lift.
They achieve this by welding the body mounts on top of the chassis rail instead of on the side. If you have a look at yours then a 3.0 V6 you will quickly see the how they do it.

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 7:44 pm
by MKarmyshev
Bitsamissin wrote:Mike I would say with an auto the 2.8TDI will run a lot better with 4.90's all Gen 2 2.8TDI's (lwb & SWB) in Aus all had 4.90's (we only got the 5sp).

Japanese spec 2.8TDI SWBs have 4.636 both A/T and M/T if they are hardtop, if I remember correctly. 4.900 in soft-top only...
So looks like I need to search for 2.8 LWBs at salvage yards?