Outer Limits 4x4 Board

have a gq patrol, 35's turbo kit... warms up a little , as they do.... just wondering if anyone has put one in, and wat the results were???

was going to buy one but they are as dear as poision i have new 3 core radiator high flow thermostat big boost and big fuel can get hot if you really work it so my still have to fork out for one,am looking around for cheaper will let you no what i find.

PWR is good gear.

What exhaust temp are you running?

You may be putting to much fuel in making it run a bit hotter.

Cheers
David

I rang em for one for my gq with a 6 litre and yeah they are dear as poison. I had one made at dandenong race radiators for little more than half the price.

I put one in my GQ (Turbo 35's etc) that was running warm ( i would start to back off when water temps climbed over 110) and i never had an over heating problem after that. If the radiator was clean you would be pushing it real hard to get the water temps over 90, and if it had mud in it you were still doing well to get it over 100. I know there expensive, however in my situation it was worth it.

Rough_Rider wrote:I rang em for one for my gq with a 6 litre and yeah they are dear as poison. I had one made at dandenong race radiators for little more than half the price.

x2 ring race radiators they are cheap have an exelent product and are good to deal with.
bennett st dandenong vic Im pretty sure

ps thet also do repairs to bike radiators that you whick were farked good as new

ajsr wrote:

Rough_Rider wrote:I rang em for one for my gq with a 6 litre and yeah they are dear as poison. I had one made at dandenong race radiators for little more than half the price.

x2 ring race radiators they are cheap have an exelent product and are good to deal with.
bennett st dandenong vic Im pretty sure

ps thet also do repairs to bike radiators that you whick were farked good as new

x3 we use em to repair our truck intercoolers, they seem to know what they are doing.

x4 with race radiaters, only thing that could keep my 6.5 chev diesel cool

www.alloyradiators.com.au

same core as pwr and a.r.e and half the price.

They'll make one in any size and configuration.

heres a complete price list for PWR radiators

PWR Price Guide

What about adapting a cooling pro radiator from another model?

Ive used a few of them in cars (the majority of which are turbo and run stainless manifolds, which = high under bonnett temps) and they work a treat and at the price you cant argue.

I had a polished PWR rad custom made based on heaps of recommendations from people. Paid $1300 for it and it went back 3 times before I took it to Micks Metal Craft in Sydney to replace the top and bottom tanks PWR couldn't get right. Mick did a bloody top job first go and has since made a number of parts for me.

Turns out he would have made on for about $800. Instead that PWR piece of crap cost me over $1600 before it would fit and made to my original specifications. It also took me ages to remove the huge PWR logo they stenciled on the core fins that I specifically asked to not have done.

Based on this experience, there is now way I would ever use a PWR product again.

Ever x infinity trillion billion million at least.

You can pick up the alloy radiators for the $550 dollar mark but not sure if they do a specific one per vehicle or if you have to modify to fit. Will find out more this week. i believe they are for more custom applications like motorsport racing.

LudaCris

picked one up 4 $800..., put it in.. sits under half. used to always sit half way... put the right foot to the floor and held the revs 3500 for a while , still sat under half.. good... exhaust temp gets around 500ish when giving up hills or a hard time.. it is a auto 4.2tdi.... am happy so far

I recently put a PWR in my GQ after waiting a thousand years for it to show up (WA), and found that the top p/s mount had the hole 15mm out, the top d/s mount had the hole 10mm out, the whole rad was taller than the normal one and after butchering the mounts to make it fit now the shroud (that I also had to butcher the c**p out of) fouls on the bonnet, It also had a different sized hose outlet to the overflow, the bottom hose outlet pointed slightly the wrong way leaving the hose too close to the alternator pulley and after I butchered the top hose to clear the power steering reservoir I EVENTUALLY got the thing in there.

NO WAY would I buy one of them again, get one made somewhere near where you live so you can have probs sorted the easy way and obviously for two thirds of the price too.

Not happy.

interesting thread on them on patrol forum

YOu can but if you give it some goat over rough terrain and the engine mounts flex the fan picks up that middle brace and tears it off resulting in a nice leak on the welded seem.

Was out with the boys from Opposite Lock at Springwood QLD 3 weeks ago when one of the Opposite Lock boys did his SECOND radiator in exactly the same fashion. You can't successfully run factory engine driven fan hence why you will now struggle to get OL @ Springwood to sell you a dessert cooler radiator

and

I had a big PWR alloy rad in my last GU and I could get the factory fan back on, but I'll be farqued if I could get the shroud back on, so I left it off. Waste of time putting the rad in without the shroud as well..... no improvement in cooling from the pizzy little factory rad.

Maybe you could fit this big sucker Aussie Desert Cooler rad and whack an extra front fan on to push air through and wire the air con fan to run in parrallel as well.

Lots of blokes have said that leccy fans won't cut the mustard.....yet they seem to work okay on Ford V8s etc....
Roachie

bogged wrote:YOu can but if you give it some goat over rough terrain

Found the problem

very interesting bogged, will remember to keep an eye on that!
have got the PWR double pass unit and after a few mods to the engine thermostat housing to take the water from the other side of the radiator, I hardly get over half way on the gauge with big fuel and bigger boost towing the boat.
had to mod the shroud also.

they are expensive but work, so happy so far........

BASSYK wrote:

bogged wrote:YOu can but if you give it some goat over rough terrain

Found the problem

guzzla wrote:.... Instead that PWR piece of crap cost me over $1600 before it would fit and made to my original specifications.

I don't get it. Are you saying you provided specifications but it wasn't made to them and you accepted it and then had it altered etc. Did you provide a detailed drawing etc.

I provided PWR with a detailed spec drawing and every measurement, size, distance etc was exactly as I provided. I've yet to test it but I have no reservations that it will exceed my expectations.

Slight Thread Hi-Jack...

If a custom raditor is being made for a 4wd, has anyone considered increasing the volume of the bottom tank to hold more water?

I was thinking that in my application (suzuki, victoria), there is room to extend a radiator down below where the stock unit goes, but this area would not get air flow due to a bull bar, and would spend a lot of time in mud (i.e. always be clogged), so

Would there be any advantange in being able to hold more water here?

I would just be happy if the "custom rad for my car".... FITTED in my ShortyIQ car...

greg wrote:Slight Thread Hi-Jack...

If a custom raditor is being made for a 4wd, has anyone considered increasing the volume of the bottom tank to hold more water?

I was thinking that in my application (suzuki, victoria), there is room to extend a radiator down below where the stock unit goes, but this area would not get air flow due to a bull bar, and would spend a lot of time in mud (i.e. always be clogged), so

Would there be any advantange in being able to hold more water here?

Greg really the only advantage would be that the coolant would take longer to get hot then normal as theres more of it to heat up. This is really only advantageous for water to air intercoolers, as when you hit big boost there is more water to soak up the heat before the pump gets time to circulate it out.

greg wrote:Slight Thread Hi-Jack...

If a custom raditor is being made for a 4wd, has anyone considered increasing the volume of the bottom tank to hold more water?

I was thinking that in my application (suzuki, victoria), there is room to extend a radiator down below where the stock unit goes, but this area would not get air flow due to a bull bar, and would spend a lot of time in mud (i.e. always be clogged), so

Would there be any advantange in being able to hold more water here?

Lower center of gravity?

PJ.zook wrote:

greg wrote:Slight Thread Hi-Jack...

If a custom raditor is being made for a 4wd, has anyone considered increasing the volume of the bottom tank to hold more water?

I was thinking that in my application (suzuki, victoria), there is room to extend a radiator down below where the stock unit goes, but this area would not get air flow due to a bull bar, and would spend a lot of time in mud (i.e. always be clogged), so

Would there be any advantange in being able to hold more water here?

Greg really the only advantage would be that the coolant would take longer to get hot then normal as theres more of it to heat up. This is really only advantageous for water to air intercoolers, as when you hit big boost there is more water to soak up the heat before the pump gets time to circulate it out.

I agree... for a radiator, I think you'd need to find a way to get air flow through that section as well to get any real advantage in the normal scheme of things.

PJ.zook wrote:Greg really the only advantage would be that the coolant would take longer to get hot then normal as theres more of it to heat up. This is really only advantageous for water to air intercoolers, as when you hit big boost there is more water to soak up the heat before the pump gets time to circulate it out.

my thinking was that the greater the volume, the better it would handle a spike in load...

example - a hill climb at full noise. if you have double the water in the system, it will take twice as long to heat up (and cool down)...

i was considering the space in question to be "dead space" for anything else - so other than a bit of ventilation to around the power steering box, there would be no loss in filling the void with extra water..

greg wrote:

PJ.zook wrote:Greg really the only advantage would be that the coolant would take longer to get hot then normal as theres more of it to heat up. This is really only advantageous for water to air intercoolers, as when you hit big boost there is more water to soak up the heat before the pump gets time to circulate it out.

my thinking was that the greater the volume, the better it would handle a spike in load...

example - a hill climb at full noise. if you have double the water in the system, it will take twice as long to heat up (and cool down)...

i was considering the space in question to be "dead space" for anything else - so other than a bit of ventilation to around the power steering box, there would be no loss in filling the void with extra water..

My thinking, while there is extra capacity, there would be more chance of it 'sitting' before flowing, holding the heat in there...

its a tricky one, I see greater volume = good, and also bad...
Hmmm be interested to see what people say

have you tried calling PWR? They would tell you

any more recent thoughts experiences on these or equivelents.... shall be needing one shortly it seems for 00 td42

I Thought about A PWR Radiator
But All Ready Had a larger one in there
and Couldnt justify It as Didnt realy have any over Heating
So Rebuilt the one I have

Well since my post in Jan I have fitted my custom PWR rad and I am now running in a new engine ready for a rechip etc.

But there is a HUGE problem.

It now runs way too COLD. So far I have fitted the hottest thermostat available yet it's still too cold.

My previous rad was a copper 50mm double core and this one is a 32mm single core and the engine is a 347 and not short on HP, so yep I'm pretty happy with PWR