Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys!

I have no idea how I can get around this problem..... So I'd like as many people as possible to have a look.

In order to hook up the oil-feed for my turbo I have to remove one of this bungs (grup-screw, 5mm allen head).

Now they are both just too soft, so they round-off straight away and don't budge...... Does anybody know how to get them out or is ther an alternative oil-feed somewhere that I can use??

I have attached a pic here:

I have thought about welding something to the bit that potrudes but there is not much meat and I'm not a good welder either.........

We have tried everything else, knocking in a bigger allen key, same result.

Yes thats a bit of a bugger.

What i would do is drill it out with a bit about 1-2mm smaller than the screw

Dont drill the whole way through it so u dont have swarf issues and risk of wrecking the thread.

After u have taken alot of the meat out of the grub screw get a pin punch and try and knock the left over threaded section toward the center of the hole, this should break the seal on the threads and allow u to turn it out.

To turn it out, knock one side into the middle and use that flat edge to knock it around to thread it out.

PS It might be the angle of the pic but that engine mount looks knakkered

The engine mount is fine mate, just looks a bit funny

Have you heard of taking the oil-feed from the other side, at the pressure sender?

There is nut much space in there to do the tapping and all...... maybe 20cm between the grub screws and the wheel arch

yeah i took mine from the sender, as a mechanic mate said that gets pressure first, easy as.

i have seen some kits that take the oil feed from the pressure sender, seems to work okay, i think they use one of those as its easier, and requires a shorter hose.

just thinking, would it help if you had the engine up to operating temp, and use a large size easy out, might work, then again, might not.

ozy1 wrote:i have seen some kits that take the oil feed from the pressure sender, seems to work okay, i think they use one of those as its easier, and requires a shorter hose.

just thinking, would it help if you had the engine up to operating temp, and use a large size easy out, might work, then again, might not.

I was there helping A.J. We thought about using the easy outs but dont think theres enough there for them to grab properly without drilling. and we dont know the length so bit hesitant about drilling it.
Taking the oil feed from the pressure sender on the other side needs a hose that goes up over the top of the motor and to the other side, fair bit longer then the intended one so we wernt sure if it was ok to do.

I made the hose to suit the oil feed between the engine mount uprights. I hammer in the next size up HEX drive (allen key socket) 5.5mm (7/32) and undo it with a ratchet or braker bar.

Yeah, all your parts are ace mate! Thanks but my "parts" are not playing nice

We tried all that, the grub screws are just soo soft the just round off no matter what size we hammered in.

I might have to take the feed from the pressure sender and get a T-piece made up for that..... Sounds like the easiest option at the moment.

Where did you get those hoses made up nasty? Just in case I have to get another one made.

EDIT: Joshy, drilling is not an option unless we take the engine out or you have a 5.5mm drill thats 2 feet long to get through from the wheelarch

You can get long drill bitt extenions As I have a few at work

Apart from that, the easiest option would be to hammer a hex drive in there and weld it to the grub screw and then undo ut with the ratchet/bar.

There is just not much "meat" to weld to, you gotta have a steady hand too haha...... nobody I know thinks their a good enough welder......

If all fails the oil feed will be taken from the pressure sender.... I have to get a new hose made up then

go buy yourself a cheap allen key (the size that has to be tapped in), then tap it in and just put two or three tack welds from th allen key to the plug allow it to cool then turn screw out the allen key.

the welds should, one slightly shrink the plug and two the heat should break any seal (ie loctite) that is holding it in there.

Yes, that's the idea that floats around in my head at the moment.
There is not much contact between the allen key and the grub screw to weld on though.....
And I don't want to end up welding the grub screw to the block

Plus, I don't know anybody that can do it for me, I can't weld for 5hit....

the block being cast wont weld so if u end up pooling over the block its not going to stick

what smiley said is perfect

Maybe that's worth a try then. We have allready cut down an allen key (oversize, 5.5mm) so we can fit it in a socket and use the ratchet with extension.

Alternatively, could I use that glue-weld stuff, you know what I mean, that sets hard as metal as it dries??

Thanks for your help! Lucky I'm not the only person that has no life and spends Saturday nights on 4wd forums...... haha

do you have a mig there that you could use to weld the allen key to the plug?

We Had exactly the same problem when fitting mine,in the end we held a nut over the grub screw and useing a mig filled up the centre with weld welding the nut to grub screw then it undun real easy (the heat helps ) ..Cheers

Yeah I think that's the go. Will give that a try I reckon.

EDIT: I just read your post, yes I have a mig available, bot nobody to use it at the moment, I can't weld haha

a mig isnt that hard to use, if it was set up previously all you gotta do is turn on, point and shoot especially if your gunna weld a nut to it,

if i wasnt so busy with piece of shiat cars at the moment id offer to come weld a nut on for ya,

BTW who ever designed suzuki wheel bearings should be shot.

A.J. wrote:Yeah, all your parts are ace mate! Thanks but my "parts" are not playing nice

We tried all that, the grub screws are just soo soft the just round off no matter what size we hammered in.

I might have to take the feed from the pressure sender and get a T-piece made up for that..... Sounds like the easiest option at the moment.

Where did you get those hoses made up nasty? Just in case I have to get another one made.

EDIT: Joshy, drilling is not an option unless we take the engine out or you have a 5.5mm drill thats 2 feet long to get through from the wheelarch

I would heat the grub screw with a butane/lpg/oxy acet tourch, that should help loosen it. Try the hex drive again first, if not good then try the nut. If your worried about welding the bung to the key/nut sit a washer over the bung first.

I made the hoses, the hose is Ryco avenger T2 wire hose with feild re-useable ends. The couping is screwed into the ferule with a right hand thread, the ferule is scewed onto the hose with a left hand thread.

You could just buy a new peice of ryco hose and re-use the ends but that hose is expensive. You cannot use a different brand of hose with the ryco couplings. The ryco hose might be $45/m and would be hard to bend across the top of the motor. I made the hoses from offcuts, the turbo does not need 6300psi preasure, I doubt it would see more then 80psi.

Ebay have 1 meter long teflon hose for turbo oil feed for $40-$60. The teflon hose is much more flexable and would proberly be cheaper.

Thanks mate.

Yeah I saw the hoses on ebay, I would obviously prefer to use the hoses you made as it is nice and tidy to have all hoses on one side.
Plus I have it booked in for the new exhaust tomorrow so it would be good to finish it today.....

If it just doesn't work, then I'll get another hose. $45/m is ok, as it is way less than a metre to come from the pressure sender. Mate I'd even pay $100 as long as it gets finished sometime soon

Allright guys the battle is lost.
We tried everything and welded nuts and bolts to the plugs with a mig.
That worked fine but the bolt/nut/bolt-head just kept shearing off.
After all this trouble I'm just joing to take the feed off a t-piece at the pressure switch

Was worth the try but I think this is the best option now.

I'll get a hose made up tomorrw and hopefully complete this project

A.J. wrote:The engine mount is fine mate, just looks a bit funny

Have you heard of taking the oil-feed from the other side, at the pressure sender?

There is nut much space in there to do the tapping and all...... maybe 20cm between the grub screws and the wheel arch

I had a "Mike vine" kit fitted back in 98 or 99 to my GQ.
they "T" off the oil sender thru to a oil cooler up front then back to the turbo feed. theory is fitlered, Cool & ambient temp oil feeds the turbo.
Mine has had no issues with this set up!

cheers

Sounds good mate.

I will organise that hose and t-piece tomorrow and hook it up.

I'm glad I have that option

yaeh i can see that you are having some problems, why not just buy a double lengh banjo bolt and come off the back of the alternator, short hose no worries......

i dont think the gu alt has oil to it

i agree.... where does it say gu

giantracing wrote:i agree.... where does it say gu

In his sig line it says GU TD42. Either way I would have thought there would still be a bung in the side of the block on that side also.

Actually looking at the pic. Is the bolt to the left of the left circle, is that the oil feed for a ALT/Vac?
If it is just use that. As your alt dosent need a oil feed.

The problem was the same with both bungs. Both impossible to get out.
I don't have the vac pump on the alternator, that's why I have 2 empty bungs there.

BUT THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED NOW!
I went to Pirtek and got a long hose with t-piece and just took the feed from the pressure-sender bung on the other side. Worked a treat!
All up and running now

THANKS HEAPS FOR YOUR HELP GUYS!

I still think there is pressurised oil behind that bolt on the left hand side of the pic.

I know, there is.

BUT as I said 3 times now, this bolt on the left side has the same problem as the right one. I couldn't get it out.