Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys. As the rear diff housing is offset to the drivers side on most landies yet it is in the center of the axle on patrols, i was wondering how the swap is done???

Fabrication and a Salisbury ball joint mount. I think using a Landcruiser rear instead is now a more common practice because its a DS drop.

I really have to ask the question.
Why is it Rover owners still want to do full diff convertions when there is such great products now for a hilux / 80 convertion on the Rover housings.
With the likes of Rovertracks and how easy it is done now is it really worth the fab work to do full convertions???
You end up with a lower pumkin aswell by using patrol or 80 rears.

Thanks guys. I actually dont have a rover I was just interested in how you did it.

nottie wrote:I really have to ask the question.
Why is it Rover owners still want to do full diff convertions when there is such great products now for a hilux / 80 convertion on the Rover housings.
With the likes of Rovertracks and how easy it is done now is it really worth the fab work to do full convertions???
You end up with a lower pumkin aswell by using patrol or 80 rears.

For me its cost il be fitting LC60 diffs front and rear which will give me lower raitos stronger centers and axles all i have to do is convert the rear to disc and fit them up which i can do myself so for about 500 bucks and my labour i get a heaps stronger than standard set up then down the track i can get some lockers and front longs ...

hey lokka, hows the width going to be going from rover coil (i assume) to 60's?

plus you need to run bigger tyres to get the same clearance as a rover housing

Serg

I am doing the center swap a i got a 80ser Elocker for stuff all, and a Lux rear for $150.
Why is everyone so concerned about the clearance of the diff, i bet all the cruiser owners don't think there diffs are to low!!!
And as for having to run bigger tyres, a 60ser diff with 31'' tyres sits the same height in rover as it does in a cruiser, it don't know what make of car it's in.

Bruce

uninformed wrote:hey lokka, hows the width going to be going from rover coil (i assume) to 60's?

plus you need to run bigger tyres to get the same clearance as a rover housing

Serg

I cant remember the size difference ive got it written in a book in the shed i cant find at the moment tho im sure i only need about 30mm per side to get the same width as the rangie diffs and theres 2 ways of doing this either use IFS lux front hubs and 80 rears on the 60 axles or offset rims im goin the later as i plan to run a 15x10 rim and 35in creepies or maby 37in creepies depending how the 4.1's are with the raito in the box but i also have the option to change that also as im currently running the .996:1 high range with 3.54:1 diffs and 32.5in tyres and its a good combo on road and off in low range

lokka wrote:
For me its cost il be fitting LC60 diffs front and rear which will give me lower raitos stronger centers and axles all i have to do is convert the rear to disc and fit them up which i can do myself so for about 500 bucks and my labour i get a heaps stronger than standard set up then down the track i can get some lockers and front longs ...

can you please let me know how you go with this? i was looking at doing the lux/80 centers but i have a set of 60 diffs in the yard. from running a tape over them the other day i came up with they were 75mm shorter each side then a rangey diff. that would put a huge load on bearings, stuff up the turning on small offset rims.

zook4fun wrote:

lokka wrote:
For me its cost il be fitting LC60 diffs front and rear which will give me lower raitos stronger centers and axles all i have to do is convert the rear to disc and fit them up which i can do myself so for about 500 bucks and my labour i get a heaps stronger than standard set up then down the track i can get some lockers and front longs ...

can you please let me know how you go with this? i was looking at doing the lux/80 centers but i have a set of 60 diffs in the yard. from running a tape over them the other day i came up with they were 75mm shorter each side then a rangey diff. that would put a huge load on bearings, stuff up the turning on small offset rims.

Are you sure on them sizes im thinking its only about 60 or 70 mm narrower 60 diffs to rangie diffs you sure the diffs you have are from a 60 and not a 40 as im sure the 40's are narrower than the 60 best go play with the tape and find my book tomoro ...

Even though the WMS is shorter on the LC60 axles, the LC60 runs a lot more offset from the factory so the track difference isnt the same.

I just threw a tape of a LC60 rear and its 148cm WMS-WMS. I'm not sure what a coil Rover is.

SoldierBoy1 wrote:I am doing the center swap a i got a 80ser Elocker for stuff all, and a Lux rear for $150.
Why is everyone so concerned about the clearance of the diff, i bet all the cruiser owners don't think there diffs are to low!!!
And as for having to run bigger tyres, a 60ser diff with 31'' tyres sits the same height in rover as it does in a cruiser, it don't know what make of car it's in.

Bruce

LC60 diff sits at the same height with 31's as a Rover does on 29's. The LC60 diff and axle housing is larger.

lokka wrote:

uninformed wrote:hey lokka, hows the width going to be going from rover coil (i assume) to 60's?

plus you need to run bigger tyres to get the same clearance as a rover housing

Serg

I cant remember the size difference ive got it written in a book in the shed i cant find at the moment tho im sure i only need about 30mm per side to get the same width as the rangie diffs and theres 2 ways of doing this either use IFS lux front hubs and 80 rears on the 60 axles or offset rims im goin the later as i plan to run a 15x10 rim and 35in creepies or maby 37in creepies depending how the 4.1's are with the raito in the box but i also have the option to change that also as im currently running the .996:1 high range with 3.54:1 diffs and 32.5in tyres and its a good combo on road and off in low range

Lokka what type of track gains does the IFS front and 80 hubs on the rear give? I've got LC60 axles under my Series ute.

Thanks for that info slunnie now i have the 60 width il check the rangie as for the info on the luxIFS/80 hub mods look here
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic23523-0-asc-0.php

scroll down and you will find the info looks like lux IFS and 80 rears will give a gain of 75 mm looks like thats gunna be tha go and then fit larger offset rims i want to run 15x10's so i can use maxxis creepies reason being the 35in creepies crown bad on 15x8's so 10's will work much nicer and should make the tyre sit flatter

Ahhh you're a good man Lokka! Thanks for this.

I've got the 37 Creepys on 16x10 and they still curve on the treadface like any other bias, but they defintely don't have that peak crown like on the 8s.

LC60 diff sits at the same height with 31's as a Rover does on 29's. The LC60 diff and axle housing is larger.

Slunnie You missing the point i know they are a bigger housing and there for will be closer to the ground, but it's nothing to get wrapped around the axles about (pardon the pun), if you are going to get concerned about the difference in height there every one with a cruiser should be worried to, and i bet there not!

Plus anyone doing a diff swap won't be leaving on there 29'' rim

PS how the hell do you make the old post come up in gray??

Bruce

SoldierBoy1 wrote:LC60 diff sits at the same height with 31's as a Rover does on 29's. The LC60 diff and axle housing is larger.

Slunnie You missing the point i know they are a bigger housing and there for will be closer to the ground, but it's nothing to get wrapped around the axles about (pardon the pun), if you are going to get concerned about the difference in height there every one with a cruiser should be worried to, and i bet there not!

Plus anyone doing a diff swap won't be leaving on there 29'' rim

PS how the hell do you make the old post come up in gray??

Bruce

Hay bruce ya hit the Quote tab in the top right corner mate then type in ya shyte after the first lot of shyte ok

SoldierBoy1 wrote:

Slunnie wrote:

SoldierBoy1 wrote:And as for having to run bigger tyres, a 60ser diff with 31'' tyres sits the same height in rover as it does in a cruiser, it don't know what make of car it's in.

Bruce

LC60 diff sits at the same height with 31's as a Rover does on 29's. The LC60 diff and axle housing is larger.

Slunnie You missing the point i know they are a bigger housing and there for will be closer to the ground, but it's nothing to get wrapped around the axles about (pardon the pun), if you are going to get concerned about the difference in height there every one with a cruiser should be worried to, and i bet there not!

Plus anyone doing a diff swap won't be leaving on there 29'' rim

PS how the hell do you make the old post come up in gray??

Bruce

Bruce I've sorted the quoting and added what I was responding to. I understand what you're saying but am not sure why you're bringing that into my comments as what I've said was not an opinion. If LandCruiser owners don't have a problem with their clearance (or lack of), then thats good for them but thats not the case for everybody and some people want more. Cruiser drivers dont define 4WDing needs, they just plow the tracks so that everybody else can get through, but the axles are a lot stronger than anything Rover or built into Rover (except a 35 spline Salisbury).

I really feel I'm wasting my time responding here.

Thanks lokka ill give it a go next time.

Slunnie, no one's opinion is a waste of time?

Bruce

Ok sorry to have started a slap fight but hay

Once you go fitting cromo front a rear to say 60 diffs you end up with the same price as a hilux /80 diff convertion in rangie housings.

Once you add lockas to either cost stayes the same.

With the hilux / 80 convertion to rangie housings you end up with the same strength diffs in the axel and CVs to the 60 diffs(almost same axel and exactly same CVs) but the crown wheel and pinion in the 60 centre obviously is a bit stronger.

Cost is the same
My point is -- With the marginal ( in my opinion) strength in pinion crownwheel going to a full 60 diif is it really worth it considering the fab work involved. Shore great if you can do it yourself but if paying someone i dont see it as a huge gain


Also Lokka once you get the additional parts to get you width correct it adds to the price further.


Does anyone know the pinion size as in width for a 60 and a hilux and 80.
I have them all in the shed but carnt be assed going out there tonight.

Do you mean like the pinion length?

If so the LC60/LC80 front & rear/Hiliux F&R are all the same lengths and the Rover is very very close if not the same as the toy ones.

Ahh as in Thickness Bearing size. I am shore the hilux is smaller then the 80 but i thought the 80 was bigger then the 60.


Forgot to add earlier that another cost for doing a convertion in rangie housings is the 80 / hilux centres But still would work out the same cost as doing 60 diffs convertion as needing other bits to get the width.

Slunnie wrote:Do you mean like the pinion length?

If so the LC60/LC80 front & rear/Hiliux F&R are all the same lengths and the Rover is very very close if not the same as the toy ones.

I know when doing the toyota centre swap that you machine out the hilux 80 pinion flange and redrill it and the rangie shaft bolts straight up with no mods needed. But cheers anyways Slunnie

I just fitted a Toyota pattern yolk onto the driveshaft.

nottie wrote:Ok sorry to have started a slap fight but hay

Once you go fitting cromo front a rear to say 60 diffs you end up with the same price as a hilux /80 diff convertion in rangie housings.

Once you add lockas to either cost stayes the same.

With the hilux / 80 convertion to rangie housings you end up with the same strength diffs in the axel and CVs to the 60 diffs(almost same axel and exactly same CVs) but the crown wheel and pinion in the 60 centre obviously is a bit stronger.

Cost is the same
My point is -- With the marginal ( in my opinion) strength in pinion crownwheel going to a full 60 diif is it really worth it considering the fab work involved. Shore great if you can do it yourself but if paying someone i dont see it as a huge gain


Also Lokka once you get the additional parts to get you width correct it adds to the price further.


Does anyone know the pinion size as in width for a 60 and a hilux and 80.
I have them all in the shed but carnt be assed going out there tonight.

Nup my way will be cheaper i rekon i allready have some 80 rear hubs. Lux IFS wont be hard to get and resonably priced id say i rekon all my parts including new seals brakes and the like wontg cost me much over a grand maby $1200 then its my time and mig wire and gas to do the work ...

Whats it worth to do lux/80 diffs to rover housings ????

lokka wrote:Thanks for that info slunnie now i have the 60 width il check the rangie as for the info on the luxIFS/80 hub mods look here
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic23523-0-asc-0.php

scroll down and you will find the info looks like lux IFS and 80 rears will give a gain of 75 mm looks like thats gunna be tha go and then fit larger offset rims i want to run 15x10's so i can use maxxis creepies reason being the 35in creepies crown bad on 15x8's so 10's will work much nicer and should make the tyre sit flatter

I'd still be more inclined to run them on a 8" rim, don't think the 10" rim will reduce the crowning that much, the sidewalls do soften up after a while and not crown as much, but i'm a believer that 8" rims still hold the bead better then a 10" in a 12.5" width. mine a few years old and run them round 8-10psi when new ran them at 5-6psi - no beadlocks, never losta bead or had a 'bead fart'

def90 wrote:

lokka wrote:Thanks for that info slunnie now i have the 60 width il check the rangie as for the info on the luxIFS/80 hub mods look here
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic23523-0-asc-0.php

scroll down and you will find the info looks like lux IFS and 80 rears will give a gain of 75 mm looks like thats gunna be tha go and then fit larger offset rims i want to run 15x10's so i can use maxxis creepies reason being the 35in creepies crown bad on 15x8's so 10's will work much nicer and should make the tyre sit flatter

I'd still be more inclined to run them on a 8" rim, don't think the 10" rim will reduce the crowning that much, the sidewalls do soften up after a while and not crown as much, but i'm a believer that 8" rims still hold the bead better then a 10" in a 12.5" width. mine a few years old and run them round 8-10psi when new ran them at 5-6psi - no beadlocks, never losta bead or had a 'bead fart'

Yep that sounds like good advise i have a mate with 35in creepies on 15x8 toyo rims i could probably try once i get the toyo diffs in mite give that a shot first and see how they ride

Lokka, will the LC60 axles give you enough room to mount the front springs with the location of the swivel ball.

Well i just threw a tape over a front diff i have here and come up with some good sizes rangie has 1555MM WMS to WMS which makes it 75 MM narrower than the 60 and this can be cured with above mentioned mods ...

Next i went for coil centers which are 985MM between the centers which gives 1135MM to the out sides of the coils ...

Slunnie could you put the tape over your front 60 diff and tell me the width at were the swivel knuckels are welded into the housing as id say i will have just enough room to fit the coil mounts on

1095mm from weld to weld.

Hmmm, maybe you could fab the mount slightly up and over the swivel something along the lines of how Stinkyfab did this coilover mount.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=739440