Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Had a quick read of the search section but couldnt find a direct answer.

Very simple question, to fit 33's comfortably how much lift is needed if at all???????

Will not be doing any hardcore four wheel driving but will be doing beachs hill climbs etc.

Marc

I`m not sure who it was now but not that long ago someone said that MQ`s came out with 7.50x16 and a body lift wasnt required to fit 33s.
I had already done a 2" body lift (SWB) and I have a heap of room now even with 33s on.I stand to be corrected but I may even be able to fit 35s under it with the 2'' lift.

SWEET!! Guess the body lift is closer than i expected. How bad did the gear and transfer lever clash on the body?? Dont like the idea of hacking my floor apart. Saw a swb with a 3" lift and that area looked awful and sounded really bad when driving.

Is 2" okay??? ike doesnt look too crap and butchered??

Marc

My brother just did what almost amounted to a 3" lift an an MQ and he did not need to touch the floor panels or bend the gearstick or the transfer case stick.

had an MQ SWB, 2" body lift equired new hose for the clutch to be madfe up, and i bent the levers to make them fir like new again, is was good, no odd sounds, and looked pretty good if i do say so myself, i have pics of it somewhere too...........

I guess it depends on how saggy your springs are, but my 82 SWB MQ has recently reset springs and I'm quite sure it wouldn't have fit the 33's without the 2" lift. Even with the lift, when I have a front tyre stuffed right up the in guard, there is less than a finger width out to the flare. Of course, that could be improved with different flares.

Just my 2c - the consensus here reads like there would be no issue. I can tell you that I would have had a lot of trouble putting the 33's under without the lift. You might not notice it until you flex the suspension right up, but I reckon there'd be rubbing even when turning. Have a read in my member's section for details.

2" suspension will fit the 33's however will rub on the leading edge of the front guards but if your not after flex and hardcore driving go the body lift, cheaper and the gearstick mod only needs to be filed slightly... 5min job

I`ve got ironman springs & from a MQ I saw today the springs must have been reset cause the one I saw the springs were almost flat. My apologies if I led you astray with that one.
Didnt have to do anything with the levers but i did have to tap a little bit at the front of the 4wd lever on the panel but is un noticeable.
The clutch hose was removed from the hole in the firewall that it sits in and was ''modified'' (bent abit thats all) to suit.
I also have put different flares on mine.

for normal driving cercomestances u will fit 33's under the MQ without and mods to lift at all. It will however leave u with nothing at all to speak of in the guards and u will scrub like buggery when offroad.

If u do a 2 inch body lift ( requires no more than an afternoon to do) u will easily fit the 33's with a nice amount of room. Check out HeathX4 thread, he has 2 inch body and 33's.

In the bodyliftm u will have to remove the bottom part of ur radiator fan shroud, re fit and adjust ur fuel filler hose ( standard hose will fit ),
Undo ur brakehose and diff breather hoses and remount them slightly lower and remove ur clutch line from the clutch master from the firewall mount so it is free. If u have a snorkel u will have to modify the air intake and nothin on the inside should be affected.

cheers,

Screwy

Well that all sounds too easy

Anyone know of a " Ready made kit " that can be purchased or the details of a do it yourself kit???

You guys mostly seem to have SWB's. Is it the same for LWB????

Cheers
Marc

only difference is how many body mounts there are

Has anyone on this forum done body lift on a MQ LWB patrol??

MArc

Superior Engineering are one crew who do body lift kits. There are others, but they all obviously have a common theme - they are more expensive than the DIY kit! Its not really that hard, although a bit time consuming, to get your own blocks, washers, nuts and bolts.

I'm pretty sure you'll find someone who has done a LWB - I hope they speak up.

I cant see the blocks being a problem but what type of bolt is needed?? Is it as simple as remove old bolt put in new bolt or do i have to extend bolts??

Just like to get a clear picture in my heap before i attempt something

Marc

you will need extended bolts, approx extended the same length as your body blocks, be careful, there are 2 different bolts for the very back, and there are plenty of ideas on how to do these two

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:for normal driving cercomestances u will fit 33's under the MQ without and mods to lift at all. It will however leave u with nothing at all to speak of in the guards and u will scrub like buggery when offroad.

If u do a 2 inch body lift ( requires no more than an afternoon to do) u will easily fit the 33's with a nice amount of room. Check out HeathX4 thread, he has 2 inch body and 33's.

In the bodyliftm u will have to remove the bottom part of ur radiator fan shroud, re fit and adjust ur fuel filler hose ( standard hose will fit ),
Undo ur brakehose and diff breather hoses and remount them slightly lower and remove ur clutch line from the clutch master from the firewall mount so it is free. If u have a snorkel u will have to modify the air intake and nothin on the inside should be affected.

cheers,

Screwy

Screwy,

I know you've done loads to your truck however i fail to see how it could take you more than an afternoon to do a body lift.

Really that simple??? Sounds almost too easy.

Marc

MQ080 wrote:

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:for normal driving cercomestances u will fit 33's under the MQ without and mods to lift at all. It will however leave u with nothing at all to speak of in the guards and u will scrub like buggery when offroad.

If u do a 2 inch body lift ( requires no more than an afternoon to do) u will easily fit the 33's with a nice amount of room. Check out HeathX4 thread, he has 2 inch body and 33's.

In the bodyliftm u will have to remove the bottom part of ur radiator fan shroud, re fit and adjust ur fuel filler hose ( standard hose will fit ),
Undo ur brakehose and diff breather hoses and remount them slightly lower and remove ur clutch line from the clutch master from the firewall mount so it is free. If u have a snorkel u will have to modify the air intake and nothin on the inside should be affected.

cheers,

Screwy

Screwy,

I know you've done loads to your truck however i fail to see how it could take you more than an afternoon to do a body lift.

no more than an afternoon. the night before just spray WD40 on all the bolts, in the morn pull one out go to bolt shop, get 8 new bolts that are longer by the amount that the block is and the same size, make sure they are grade 8.8. Get some new nylock nuts and washers ( thats half an hour in the morning to to that depending on how far away ur bolt shop is.

Then its undo 7 more bolts, leave one side in but with the nuts off and take the other side out, the side that is out then gets jacked up and the blocks and new bolts put in, leave the nuts off, then to the other side, do up all the nuts. ( there is another 2 hours ).
Then its just spend another hour fixing up all the little sh1t bits that happen and ur done, just spend 10 mins before u start unmounting ur breathers and brake hoses from the bosy, and the clutch line and re locate them once the lift it done,

its the same in a long wheel base cept there are 12 bolts and mounts not 8.

Can do it in an arvo.

screwy

Hey screwy i had a "quick" look under my car today and i could only see eight body mounts and mines a LWB. 2 at the front near the radiator, 4 in the middle near the doors and 2 in the rear just under the barn door area??

What with that?? I thought you said there were 12, where are they????

Marc

have a look behind the rear tyres ( directly above the axle) ......... it's not actually a mount more a "security mount"

ussually with LWB compared to short wheel base there are 8 and 12 comparitively.
I am obviously mistaken on this occasion, MQs must have the same number of mounts in both wheelbases........

There are 8 then, and the rears are tricky, do a search there are many ways to go about this.

I think u will find that there is also another 2 mounts, as Kingy said above the rear wheel arches, but these are purely rubber mounts and have no bolts, more for support than anything else.

One the body lift is in they arnt in affect anymore, u will also find that in the same area in the arches there is a bolt going through the body across ways, these will need removing also.

in esence there are 12 contact points after all, but both LWB and SWB have em.

screwy

How many of those " across ways " bolts in the arch's are there?? Just four, one for each wheel arch??


Marc

one on above each rear wheel arch, then the 2 rubber mounts ( stops for the body to rest on ) are near there also

Oh okay then, looks like im gonna give this a go and im gonna make the lift kit myself ( Seems Easy enough )

I was reading heaths member section thing and having a think that you dont need to get custom bolts made do you?? Just get something that will be long enough and thick enough oh and be high tensile and that will pretty much do the job, cause all of the eight bolts come out and can be replaced with totally new bolts. Is this correct??? Just go to a bolt/fastener shop???

When i got parts for my lift kit for my suzuki they charged me $100 for the bolts alone cause they were custom made. dont want it to hurt like that again.

MArc

Yep, that's what I did. The old bolts actually had a slightly different thickness shaft to the thread section, and the bolt guy said you can't find that real easy anymore. It didn't matter though - I just bought similar thickness bolts, 50mm longer than the old ones, and washers and nylock nuts to suit. I think the metal cost around $30-$40 in the end, so expect those sorts of figures. IIRC, Screwy suggested around $50-$60 might be the ballpark to aim for, so I came away fairly well.

Have a good read through my thread - I was reasonably thorough. Remember though, these cars are >20 years old, so you could well have different quirks. Just take things a bit slowly, and double check everything as you start to lift the body. For example - I didn't do anything with the clutch cable... come to think it, I might just check that out.

If u take one bolt out and get 8 new ones that are the same thickness but are about the length longer than ur originals that the lift blocks are ur fine.
Try and keep the thread pretty close to the same because Nissan had that type of thread for a reason, but it doesnt matter as long as ur new nuts go on the bolts.
The only problem u will have is with the back 2 bolts, The have the sep in em and have a welded nut on the body. I just drilled the nut out, and cut small hole in the body above the mount ( on the inside near the tailgate ) and shoved the bolt in like normal with a nut on the end. I did it this was simply becuase those step down bolts are hard to find.
Look to pay about $60 for the 8 bolts and nuts etc. Dont pay anymore than $70 unless there is no where else u can go, and make sure the bolts are grade 8.8 high tensile.

HTH,

screwy

Anyone have a picture of thoses captive bolts so i can see where they are???

MArc

Anyone??

Sorry mate I saw ya post this morning and forgot all about it. i'll get a couple of pics for yo tommorow arvo.

Kingy

Cheers mate doing it saturday morning

MArc