Outer Limits 4x4 Board

When you turn the key off the engine just keeps on running, even if you take the key out of the ignition. The only way to stop it is to stall it in gear.

I bought it AS IS like this.

Any clues to check what might be the problem here?

Thanks in advance

will the actuater on the injector pump. YOu will need another one. What you can do as a temp fix is put a cable on the pum so so you pull it it will shut the pump off.

i bought my MQ with a bike brake/gear cable connected to the injection pump, so i had to shut it off that way. I just pulled apart the fuel shut off mechanism thing (forgotten the correct name) cleaned it out and greased it works fine now.

Just behind the injector pump you will see a part with a cable coming out of it which attatches to the pump. It looks a bit like a wiper motor. Check to see if it has power running to it, if it does then a fair chance the motor is buggered.
A cheap & permanent fix for this is to fit an after market choke cable to operate the fuel cut off. This will be no problem to the operation of the vehicle but you will have to push it in to start it & pull it out to stop it. All trucks & farm machinery had this system right up until the early 80's.
To replace the motor can be quite expensive and all it really does is let you shut the engine down with the key instead of manually.

try disconecting the little wiper motor that turns the inj. pump on and off then reconnect it thus will reset things most of the time!!!

mine had this problem too. the lil white eletronic conneter thing neer the right hand side battary bull it apart wd40 the crap out of it then hook it back up and your sweet.

I think that that wiper-looking motor is called an Edic motor, or something similar. It has three positions - start, run and stop.

I have an sd33 which developed the same problem, there is an injector pump control motor underneath the pump connected to a lever on the pump, the lever on the pump has 3 positions back (toward firewall) which is stop, center (which is where it will usually sit as it is springloaded to the centre) which is run, and forward (toward radiator) which i understand is the start position which should advance the injector pump.

I removed my control motor and either stalled the car (like you're doing) or pulled a piece of shoelace which i tied between the lever on the pump and the ariel (short term fix)

When i found time I just stripped the motor and its gearbox cleaned all the crap out of it, lubricated and re-assembled.
worked as good as new.

If that doesn't work it could be electrical, the gregory's manual describes how to test the associated components.

Good luck

Mick

yeah thats what i did with the one on the my 4be, good as new. I also did the same to another one i had but that sort of had an intermitant problem would shut the car off sometimes and wouldn't let it start other times.

I've got a a cable running through the fire wall with a knob on the end of it, connected just as every one else describes. Works a charm!

Mates get in the car, when i'm turning it off (or "pulling" it off ), they're like "wtf is that?!" I told someone that it's the NOS button and they replied "REALLY?!"..... Thats some relevant info right there.

necromancer

Can the stop solenoid (/control motor) be rebuilt?

yea, you can open most of it up, usually it stops due to getting dirt and grease on the contacts - inside the bit where the control lever comes out of.. just carefully disassemble it and clean, then it should work when re installed.

Patroler wrote:yea, you can open most of it up, usually it stops due to getting dirt and grease on the contacts - inside the bit where the control lever comes out of.. just carefully disassemble it and clean, then it should work when re installed.

Cool
Any idea if spares are available?
The tiny tension-spring that holds the brushes onto the armature expired on mine, and I could do with a new one!

any 1 got pics of this motor?

no but it's on the rhs behind the injector pump, sort of looks like a windscreen wiper motor.

does it have 2 rubber pipes running of either end of it? and a lever that controls the accelerator if u push it in?

What's involved in converting the 12volt motor to a 24volt motor? Is it doable? I have just bought a SD33T wagon with the intent of fitting the turbo to my ute and it has this motor thingy on it where the ute is missing it. The only problem is the ute is 24 volt and the wagon was 12volt.

put a voltage step-down inline between the motor and the rst of the vehicle