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adjustable control arm ends.

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 6:32 pm
by evanstaniland
the ends on my control arms are bent and need replacement plus i need some for spares.
my problem is i dont know where to get them. they have CAL OFFROAD bushes in them if that helps any one identify them. here are a few pics so hopefully someone can refer my somewhere!

Image

Image

cheers
Evan

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 6:44 pm
by Z()LTAN
wow u banana ed those quite nicely.


I cant help you with sourcing newies infornatuly but

next time try and have them threaded in further, so cut some of the end of the arm off and thread it right in. That threaded part is weak as piss.

Did you have fun bending it :?:

:armsup:

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 6:50 pm
by evanstaniland
Z()LTAN wrote:wow u banana ed those quite nicely.


I cant help you with sourcing newies infornatuly but

next time try and have them threaded in further, so cut some of the end of the arm off and thread it right in. That threaded part is weak as piss.

Did you have fun bending it :?:

:armsup:
yea heaps of fun bending them. but i need the rod longer to get the thread in further. but its ok i guess. a 2nd nut might hold the thread more ridgid.

but i need to get new ones PLEASE HELP

Evan

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:01 pm
by antt
how big are they? could possibly replace them with some johnny joints, they're rebuildable too-

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/For ... p-388.html

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:02 pm
by Z()LTAN
cut some of the thread off then silly :lol:

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:12 pm
by evanstaniland
Z()LTAN wrote:cut some of the thread off then silly :lol:
that still wont work it will be that much too short of the holes.

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:15 pm
by evanstaniland
antt wrote:how big are they? could possibly replace them with some johnny joints, they're rebuildable too-

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/For ... p-388.html
i threw a mic on them and its about 22.74mm on the outside of the thread and inside of thread is round the 22mm mark i wasnt sure where to measure.

when you say rebuildable im assuming you mean replace bushes in the eye? i believe they just press out and in go the new ones.

Evan

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:32 pm
by dazzah
This might be an out there idea....but cut the thread off at the base...then drill and tap the stem that is left (you will have to find out thread size, metric or imperial) then go and buy a heap of bolts or threaded bar, and cut to required length, if you buy bolts just cut the heads off with cutting disc on an angle grinder, then insert, like you said add a few more nuts, one for each end as a locking nut aswell...this will work out cheap if you have access to a tap of the size you need...if not, taps aren't cheap...

in saying all that, you could always make your own ends to suit the bush, and make up a longer stem that is thicker aswell, might work out stronger...

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:35 pm
by evanstaniland
dazzah wrote:This might be an out there idea....but cut the thread off at the base...then drill and tap the stem that is left (you will have to find out thread size, metric or imperial) then go and buy a heap of bolts or threaded bar, and cut to required length, if you buy bolts just cut the heads off with cutting disc on an angle grinder, then insert, like you said add a few more nuts, one for each end as a locking nut aswell...this will work out cheap if you have access to a tap of the size you need...if not, taps aren't cheap...

in saying all that, you could always make your own ends to suit the bush, and make up a longer stem that is thicker aswell, might work out stronger...
i need 6 of them dont think i could be arseed doing that for 6

these would have had to be bought here is oz ... ANY ONE

Evan

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:49 pm
by MART
They look to be different threads , are they left and right , or are they both right , most engineering supply shops should be able to sort you out , take them in and let them do the running arround , they will be able to tell you size and pitch of threads , Cheers Paul.

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:00 pm
by evanstaniland
MART wrote:They look to be different threads , are they left and right , or are they both right , most engineering supply shops should be able to sort you out , take them in and let them do the running arround , they will be able to tell you size and pitch of threads , Cheers Paul.
the pics are of the same one.

ill take it to a bolt shop hopefully tomorrow to see what thread it is. they seem to be rh threat on both ends of the arms

Evan

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:07 pm
by MART
They are different threads and the nuts are different sizes , one is bent sideways and one is bent down , see how you go , Cheers Paul.

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:29 pm
by dazzah
Hey Evan, specialised wholesale at lambton would be the go, they have heaps of different bolts there, just try a heap of nuts until one fits, also make sure you wind the nut a fair bit on, some metric and imperial threads are similar pitch, and the nut will start on both threads but will jam up after a few turns, so if you don't screw it on enough you will be stuffed...(that happened to me from that place, didn't find out till i got home and screwed the nut on myself)...let me know what thread size and pitch it is when u find out...

Are you going in tufftruck this tear?

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:39 pm
by evanstaniland
dazzah wrote:Hey Evan, specialised wholesale at lambton would be the go, they have heaps of different bolts there, just try a heap of nuts until one fits, also make sure you wind the nut a fair bit on, some metric and imperial threads are similar pitch, and the nut will start on both threads but will jam up after a few turns, so if you don't screw it on enough you will be stuffed...(that happened to me from that place, didn't find out till i got home and screwed the nut on myself)...let me know what thread size and pitch it is when u find out...

Are you going in tufftruck this tear?
yea mate im going to Tuff Truck this year, hopfully competing...im getting the rig ready atm...

evan

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:45 pm
by A1
I would Hazzard a guess that Sam made them when he was doing your link setup ...... :?:

Its hard to tell in the pics but it looks like the threaded section has been tig welded to the Bush eye tube

Sam has made these type or similar ends for quite a few years now ....and has used Cal's bushes in them instead of genuine nissan bushes

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:07 pm
by Hulksta
It looks to be mild steel? Its only a little bend why dont you put it back in the arm and while out of the car give it a good flogging ;) Lay the arm on some timber (or timber under both ends) an hit it with a fair sized hammer :roll: you'll be surprised how easy/cheap you can fix it ;)

Or if its spares your after, go back to where they came or somewhere similar there an easy thing to make even i can make em

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:13 pm
by evanstaniland
Hulksta wrote:It looks to be mild steel? Its only a little bend why dont you put it back in the arm and while out of the car give it a good flogging ;) Lay the arm on some timber (or timber under both ends) an hit it with a fair sized hammer :roll: you'll be surprised how easy/cheap you can fix it ;)

Or if its spares your after, go back to where they came or somewhere similar there an easy thing to make even i can make em
yea ill have to look into it, i need 3 to replace bent ones on the rig then 4 for the spare arms im making up.

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:22 pm
by HANCOCK
i got my rod ends from a bearing place at wickham on the main rd stewart av i think there your best bet in newie.

Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:26 pm
by SuperiorEngineering
We sell standard ends similar to those using 1 1/8 UNF thread twin lock nuts with gen bushes/cal bushes or without. (THOSE IN THE PIC ARE NOT OURS)
Yours looks more like a metric thread but we can do any size metric/ imperial/ fine or course .

I do not recommend you restraighten them and use them on a vehicle.
Once they are bent they have been stressed and WILL fail again it's not worth the court case if you kill someone when a failure happens .

If you have all you suspension setup with the correct link sizes why dont you go to non adjustable rods . The reason i say this is the links are only as strong as the weakesr link, in this case the threaded rod .Just a thought.

links

Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 3:45 pm
by HIGH ROLLER
Hey Even i was gunna sugest the same as Superior Eng. All my link's on my buggy are nissan bushes i just pressed the bushes out then notched my link material and welded then on then press the bush back in, the only prob is your link material may not be long enough but if you do it to all four link's will end up the same.
That way you dont have to worry about snaping the thread, and it wont change the way the susspension works cause you have the jam nuts done up anyway.
I give mine an absolute caning havent let me down yet, i only went this way cause i could'nt afford to buy hiem joints at the time of building. But being a road driven truck i wouldnt recomend using them as they dont have the rubber bush in them.
Hope this helps and hope to see you at TT
Cheers Ben

Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 5:20 pm
by chimpboy
SuperiorEngineering wrote:If you have all you suspension setup with the correct link sizes why dont you go to non adjustable rods . The reason i say this is the links are only as strong as the weakesr link, in this case the threaded rod .Just a thought.
I agree with this too. You presumably know what the length should be, so the adjustable aspect is just introducing an easy path for the part to fail.

Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:25 pm
by dave
Problem is his links are alloy. so he cant weld the end on to the link.They are a metric thread 24x1.5 from memory
Evan we made those ends and can supply new one if your interested.

Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:41 pm
by HIGH ROLLER
dave wrote:Problem is his links are alloy. so he cant weld the end on to the link.They are a metric thread 24x1.5 from memory
Evan we made those ends and can supply new one if your interested.

Fair enough Dave, That might make things a little difficult.

Best of going back to Overkill then sure they can sort you out Evan.

Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 6:33 pm
by evanstaniland
thanks for the responses, i have emailed SAM and he has informed me (same as dave) that they are made and i can get more thru Overkill.

and also as dave said they are alloy, but its an idea for the spares.

thanks again

Ev

Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:24 pm
by Nelso
evanstaniland wrote:thanks for the responses, i have emailed SAM and he has informed me (same as dave) that they are made and i can get more thru Overkill.

and also as dave said they are alloy, but its an idea for the spares.

thanks again

Ev
Why not just go through dave?

Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:41 pm
by redzook
Nelso wrote:
evanstaniland wrote:thanks for the responses, i have emailed SAM and he has informed me (same as dave) that they are made and i can get more thru Overkill.

and also as dave said they are alloy, but its an idea for the spares.

thanks again

Ev
Why not just go through dave?
dave works at overkill ;)

i would be looking at beefing them up some how as there is no use putting the exact same thing in there

Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 11:08 pm
by Nelso
:oops: That's funny. :lol:

Why not make these ones with a shorter thread so they butt up against the lock nut now that you know what length links you need?

Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 6:53 am
by redzook
Nelso wrote::oops: That's funny. :lol:

Why not make these ones with a shorter thread so they butt up against the lock nut now that you know what length links you need?
that would make the link shorter

Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:09 am
by dave
Nelso wrote::oops: That's funny. :lol:

Why not make these ones with a shorter thread so they butt up against the lock nut now that you know what length links you need?
I am shore he dos'nt wont to pay for new alloy links to be made about 2in longer.

Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:20 pm
by Nelso
Yeah, I didn't explain what was in my head very clearly. I was thinking to weld a sleeve over the bolt between the nut and the ring (thus leaving a shorter thread) so the nut butts up against the sleeve, effectively making a solid link.