Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey all;
60 series chassis with a little bit of rust in between the chassis where it is doubled over the rear spring hanger, so i need to take it apart to clean it up.
My question is am I able to remove the rivets, pull the inside steel out, clean up the rust and then replace the rivets with high tensile bolts?
Looked all over the net and only found one instance of it being done.
Thanks
Pony

not sure about 4x4 chassis but at work when we do chassis work and have to nock out rivets we replace them with 8.8 grade bolts. but thats on big trucks!

D1cko wrote:not sure about 4x4 chassis but at work when we do chassis work and have to nock out rivets we replace them with 8.8 grade bolts. but thats on big trucks!

yeah same (fcukin lot of work) you might have to drill the holes a little bit so the shank of the bolt is a real nice fit if your worried. otherwise just the biggest bolts you can fit

Sorry also forgot to mention that I need this to pass roadworthy, so apart from concerns about being safe, I also need it to be legal.
Pony

Replacing rivets with bolts is fine, we also do it at work, but i dont have a clue about legality.

I've replaced broken off cast iron front shock mounts on a few 45 series Cruiser utes and never had a problem getting them RWC afterwards.
As long as you use Nylock nuts and fine thread bolts of grade 8.8 or higher it will be perfectly safe and legal.

Jas.

no idea about roadworthyness, have to ring the guy whos gunna do the rwc.
As someone else said make sure the bolt/s are a real neat fit - otherwise it will load up one bolt more than all of them evenly

where i work has is approved to do chassis mods through the DOT but we have to put blue plates on saying there has been a mod to the chassis. you may not have to do it if you are just replacing the rivets but check first.

Patroler wrote:no idea about roadworthyness, have to ring the guy whos gunna do the rwc.
As someone else said make sure the bolt/s are a real neat fit - otherwise it will load up one bolt more than all of them evenly

Neat fit is the key, try not to get bolts with a thread all the way to the end, gert ones with a shank on them. This will take any of the flexing load that threads ar not designed for. threads are only designed for torsional load and potentially will wear down & cause the sections to work.

As far as legalities arte concerned as long as the repair is as strong or better than original then it will be OK.

One thing you might think about..... as you remove each or a few rivets, drill them and insert bolt straight away. Work your way around all the rivets you wish to remove, till they're all bolted. Then remove all the bolts and do your chassis cleanup/repaint, then put it back together with the bolts. I know it will take longer but if you take all the rivets out at once, the chassis may spring to a slightly different shape making realignment difficult .. just a thought.

http://www.aviaquip.com.au/bolts/MS21250REVL.pdf


Not all bolts are the same. i'm not suggesting you need to use bolts like these, but if you study these charts, you will notice that the grip lengths increase in small incriments. this is so that when a bolt is used in shear, you can use a length that is perfect for your application(does not place any shear stresses on the thread of the bolt, only on the shank.)
i am pointing this out more to illustrate that the fastener style, torques, hole positions, hole tolerances, washer type, grip length and thread lubricant/thread locking compound each have a great impact on the strength of any bolted connection. if you get each of these factors right in selecting your solution, you will be far less likley to have problems and any engineer that may have to look at your work will respect you.

jim