Outer Limits 4x4 Board

whats the trick to getting a tie rod end out of the steering arm without using the specialist tool?

Cheers

hit it

Just buy the right tool, they are only about 15 bucks. makes the job so much easier and no risk of damage to parts or yourself if the BFH miscalclates it's trajectory...

Area54 wrote:Just buy the right tool, they are only about 15 bucks. makes the job so much easier and no risk of damage to parts or yourself if the BFH miscalclates it's trajectory...

Actually if you are talking a TRE remover like the style that goes between the TRE and the arm and forces it apart these do more damage than good and also destroy the boot. They are designed to remove a worn TRE that is being replaced not one that needs to be re-used.

basketcase wrote:hit it

Do not hit the TRE at all. You want to loosen the nut till it is almost off the end of the thread then you want to use a decent size hammer(lump hammer is good) and hit the steering arm on the side right where the TRE goes through. Do not hit any of the steering links. If it wont pop this way then use a long bar and get someone to leaver down/up on the steering link as close to the TRE as possible while hitting the steering arm in the same place. You will need to hit fairly hard. Fairy taps wont work.

I have never had to use a TRE Destroying tool.

not the two prong fork style, I'm talking the press style, like a small pitman arm puller. Shaped like a large 'U', with a large high tensile bolt through the bend in the U to press on the bolt of the TRE.

Area54 wrote:not the two prong fork style, I'm talking the press style, like a small pitman arm puller. Shaped like a large 'U', with a large high tensile bolt through the bend in the U to press on the bolt of the TRE.

Yes they work Ok but are very hard to get into some situations.

I used a small el-cheapo bearing puller that cost about 10 bucks at super cheap.

Cheers Ruff, will try this........

best way is 2 undo the nut from the TRE, get 2 BFH's hold one on one side of TRE and hit the other side of TRE with the other BFH, u will only need 2 do this 2 or 3 times and the TRE will pop out, if it dont then get a peice of hardwood and place on the TRE where the nut goes on and hit the hard wood a few times and repaet if nessesary(sp?) until it POPs and then remove it, very easy

hey Ruff are you a mechanic or just a 4b expert?

i back the nut off a couple of turns, then put a jack under the tie-rod so some of the weight of the truck is trying to pull the joint apart, only ever takes one good hit to pop it then.

Rorza wrote:hey Ruff are you a mechanic or just a 4b expert?

Im nobody

RUFF wrote:

Rorza wrote:

Im nobody

RUFF wrote:

basketcase wrote:hit it

Do not hit the TRE at all. You want to loosen the nut till it is almost off the end of the thread then you want to use a decent size hammer(lump hammer is good) and hit the steering arm on the side right where the TRE goes through. Do not hit any of the steering links. If it wont pop this way then use a long bar and get someone to leaver down/up on the steering link as close to the TRE as possible while hitting the steering arm in the same place. You will need to hit fairly hard. Fairy taps wont work.

I have never had to use a TRE Destroying tool.

I didn't mean for it to sound like that. I meant tap the steering arm so the tapered bolt comes out easier.

4sum4 wrote:

RUFF wrote:

Rorza wrote:

Im nobody

The funny bit is i wanted Tony to stick those 2 fingers up my ass thats me bent over in the rest of the photo that you havn't shown

dave wrote:

4sum4 wrote:

RUFF wrote:

Rorza wrote:

Im nobody

The funny bit is i wanted Tony to stick those 2 fingers up my ass thats me bent over in the rest of the photo that you havn't shown

Thats just wrong

RUFF wrote:

dave wrote:

4sum4 wrote:

RUFF wrote:

Rorza wrote:

Im nobody

The funny bit is i wanted Tony to stick those 2 fingers up my ass thats me bent over in the rest of the photo that you havn't shown

Thats just wrong

Only if you didn't enjoy it!

I use the type that was described above that you screw up, the fork types are useless and spread apart.
With a lifted IFS balljoint/tie rod removal is an art because you aint got much room to move.
Backing the nut off so it is level with the bolt thread gives better surface area to belt with a dumpy hammer this almost always works if it is mounted in a knuckle that is rigid and stops the thread getting damaged.
The tie rod mount to the drag link is usually the tricky one and I got a Kinchrome ($22) tie rod end remover and machined it down a tad to fit the size on my car. One time I couldn't get one apart no matter what I did so had to heat it up with an oxy to get it to pop out - BANG............