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frozenboost intercooler question

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 2:49 pm
by SLASH
hi guys,im wanting to fit one of these coolers to my td42 but im a bit unsure what size cooler to go for,either a 600hp or 350hp.im leaning more towards the 350hp as im not looking to run big amounts of power and boost as i only do slow low range 4x4 driving and i just want something thats nice to drive on the road.form searching around most are running the 600hp cooler.can i ask why most do this?would i be better of running the bigger cooler or would the 350hp be enough for what i want.all your opinions will be much appreciated.thanx in advance.

Re: frozenboost intercooler question

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:04 pm
by bogged
if you want the most cooling, go for the biggest cooler..

whats the difference in price and physical size???

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 4:40 pm
by SLASH
you would think so but i have heard that you can go to big.

about $20US

350hp has 2.5 inlet & outlet, size is 9.25x3.5x3.5

600hp has 3.0 inlet & outlet, size is 10x4.5x4.5

those sizes also depend on the type of cooler you use eg;straight through,offset etc but roughly all types have that size difference.

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 6:28 pm
by ozy1
ive been looking at these and personally id go with the 600, the size isnt that much larger, and the heat rejection capacity would have to be better having a larger surface area and greater water volume,

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 9:27 pm
by SilverBulletBM
Anyone got any info on how well these things actually cool the air? Before and after cooler air temps?

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 9:34 pm
by 300WinMag
Your still beter off with the 600hp one, the hp rating is not really relevant to a diesel as the frozen boost intercoolers are designed for drag racing rice burners etc. What you do want is temperature sustainability. So make sure you use the large heat exchanger with it, this will give you more water volume aswell as allowing better heat transfer. My intercooler is custom built and has enough surface area to support 1200hp for a short burst ie dyno shootout, but we all know there's no way a TD42 will produce those ponys. So a bigger IC is not bad within practical reason. For example, I just drove from Darwin to Port Augusta, then to Wodonga last week and the outside air temp was 47deg C at Cober Pede. The heat exchanger was able to maintain the cold side to 4 deg C above ambient (51 Deg C) which is far better than a air to air IC, and returned fuel economy of 11.75ltr/ 100km whilst traveling at 110km/hr.

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:02 pm
by 300WinMag
Also Slash, its worth spending the extra $$ to get the Bosch water pump, water temp gauge and sender and 3/4" hose installation kit all in one package with the intercooler as this will make postage cheaper. You will also need a boost pressure switch (Hobbs switch, ebay $15) or a thermal switch to activate the pump aswell as a toggle switch to turn pump on all the time when 4wding, this will prevent heatsoak building up when crawling.

Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 11:48 pm
by SLASH
Hi 300WinMag, thank you for your info so far. Yeh i will get the bosch pump coz from what ive heard its made for that application. Is the boost pressure or thermal switch to activate the pump automatically? And the switch is to obviously overide it. Is this correct? Thanx to all for all your info and opinions so far. Lozz

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 5:14 am
by 300WinMag
Yes the boost presure switch is to activate the pump and the toggle switch is to turn the pump on all the time when 4wding etc. That said I run my pump all the time in this hot weather. If you install the temp sender in the heat exchanger you will see why. Also if you cut the centre right out of your grill this will double your air flow and a 3 core radiator is recomended. See my other posts about this subject and you will see my pictures.

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:49 am
by SLASH
Cheers mate.I will check them out. Lozz

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 1:35 pm
by azzad
Is there any reason to not run the pump all the time via a switch?

Rather than use a boost pressure or thermal switch

Dazza

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 1:45 pm
by Z()LTAN
noise and life of the pump

both of which i wouldn't care about all that much

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:17 pm
by azzad
I would be real suprised if you could hear it over the TD42 clatter.
and I would have thought that stop starting it all thge time wouldnt be any good for life span either.


Dazza

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:43 pm
by 300WinMag
The only reason is lifespan as the brushes in the motor wear down and the armature shaft bearings. But at $150 for the bosch pump who cares. Personal preferance. The boost pressure switch is more of a failsafe than anything. If you where to use the bilge pump that comes with the kits I would not take my chances, if the pump fails and IC temp gets over boiling your in trouble.

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 3:42 pm
by SLASH
Good azzad,was thinking the same. i was just going to hook it up to my ignition so as everytime i start up the pump runs. I can see 300WinMag,s point though.Personal preference really. Id hate to know what would happen if it were to fail and you didnt notice. I suppose thats the point in running a temp gauge on it. If you were running a temp gauge & the pump were to fail & the temps were getting high,would it matter were your temp prob should be or would it get similar readings were ever it was mounted,say either the radiator cooler or the intercooler itself?

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 4:41 pm
by 300WinMag
If you put the sender on the return to heat exchanger side this will give you the hottest reading, ie before cooling. Mine is in the bottom of my heat exchanger which tells me the coldest reading before water flows back through the IC.

Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 6:37 am
by azzad
If I were to use a switching device it would definately be a thermal switch as this would be less likely to cut in and out as boost pressure does and you would be controlling to the temperature which is what you are trying to achieve with intercooling anyway.

Dazza

Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 3:22 pm
by 300WinMag
The best combination is both boost and thermal switches. As the boost switch anticipates that the temperature is about to increase and gives the IC a cold shot of water as it where and the thermal switch keeps the pump on until the temp drops bellow its setting giving you the best of both worlds.

Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:05 pm
by bogged
so what did you do in the end?

Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 8:19 pm
by DanwinGQ
Hey winmag 300.
What sort of coolant you running in your intercooler??
Dan.

Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:35 pm
by SLASH
Didnt do anything mate coz i ended up doing my suspension and about to get a mortgage so its gonna have to wait a while.Loz

Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:08 am
by garth
I left the bosch water pump hooked into the ignition, but switched the cooler fans with a manual switch in series with the ignition supply.

This stops the fans on the intercooler radiators turning into 'water propellers' when crossing deep rivers.

use a 50/50 quality glycol mix.

regards Garth