big_fyt wrote:
adding a turbo
new exhaust
body lift and spring lift
what tyres i should fit
air lockers
and what size winch i need.
yeah hit the bible
First thing is to decide what you want the car to be. where do you see yourself driving it when its done.
Is it also your daily driver - ie does it need to stay good to drive on road.
I cant help with all your info but as ive got the same car and am part way into it, ill give you what i know.
TURBO:
CT20 kit straight from a toyota surf will bolt on you just have to move an exhaust stud. This makes a big difference. like 10 seconds off your 0-100 times. it makes a pig of a slow car into just a slow car. so much nicer to drive.
I have also found steeper hills are doable in Low 2nd where as before i had to use low 1st as it just didnt have the torque.
costs about $500 to find a second hand unit complete. just check it out for to much play in the shaft etc.
or for 6 times the price you can go for an aftermarket unit - better power etc but from what i can tell not that much extra.
i have 5psi at 1500 revs and it builds to max at about 2100 and stays there at 11psi as long as i want. so i think the ct 20 is fine.
Exhaust: get one to suit your turbo, ideally a 3 inch dump pipe to help hot air flow out of the turbo then 3 inch straight through or 2.5 is fine. they are not a noisy car, i just have a hot dog no muffler.
BODY LIFT/ suspension
This all depends on which springs you go for and what size tyres you want to fit.
eg, if your want 33inch tyres then you will need 50mm body lift and 50 mm spring lift.
if you want 35's then maybe 50 + 75-100mm springs. but you would also need to start moving diffs forward etc which is an expensive job, as you need to change steering set up as well.
This is why its important to know where you want the car to finish up so you dont do thigs twice.
50mm blocks cost about $7 each, then you just need some high tensile bolts to suit. 6 for a single cab, 8 for a dual cab.
I think you also need to alter your radiator mounts. and bullbar mounts etc if it has one.
rear springs off an ifs model hilux are longer that your stock ones, and make a good option for better flex in the rear. hilux back ends are very stiff when stock. the fronts are average. i did my rears only recently and if made a huge difference to my traction and how hard i had to drive my car to get places.
Tyres:
see above, im going 33's as 35's are pretty hard on a hilux drive line, particularly the cv's. and need less overall mods. but if you want to build a weapon then you will be looking for bigger later down the track so build for that to start with.
note that 33's are the biggest road legal tyre size in most states.
Lockers:
I havent got them. there is huge debate over auto lockers, pros and cons, but they fit a tight budget better.
air lockers are great, but do have their own problems, mainly due to bad instalation. plus cost about 4-5k supplied and fitted.
best to learn to drive without them first.
for a hilux -the winch doesnt need to be huge - im assuming your not looking to do comps. i have a 9000 p, which for a lux is fine, and i figure if i have to pull my mate fat heavy 100 series out of the mud, a winch block will take care of it.