Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just wondering if its possible to use the drum handbrake off a NT transfer case on the back of a WT case? I keep destroying my rear brake shoes due to alot of mud driving and I thought this might be a good way to solve my lack of handbrake issue lol
Anyone does this before or have any other suggestions/solutions?

Yes it is, you'll need a NT cable and 1/2 the rear driveshaft from a NT or a NT yoke to swap onto your driveshaft.

Bear in mind the transfer drums are not self adjusting, the also fill up with mud, and they tend to get smashed on rocks. The drum is OK but the backing plate gets mangled and this screws up the pad alignment.

Steve.

i dont know why u think u will need drive shaft?? i just redrill the drum mine..

although the cable dosnt quite fit from memory.....

can have issues with the cable and also the handbrake lever where the cable goes into.

Heard a rumour once that the ones off the old Toyota Dyna fit in pretty well and work better...

never got round to trying it though.

Spock

thanks for the replies guys. would anyone happen to have a photo of the handbrake drum and how it connects to the transfer case? also johno_racing would you have a pic of the redrilled holes?

DL the drover manual from the www.suzukiinfo.com, should give u details in there.

the handbrake drum replaces the flange on the rear output. basically unbolt the rear output flange put drum backing plate section on and bolt it on and then place drum on and replace the nut on the spline.

then hook up cable etc

thanks

ZUKPOWER wrote:thanks for the replies guys. would anyone happen to have a photo of the handbrake drum and how it connects to the transfer case? also johno_racing would you have a pic of the redrilled holes?

I'm confused by the redrilled holes. NT drums use 8mm studs pressed into the drum. WT use 10mm nuts and bolts.

AFAIK, fitting a WT driveshaft to a NT drum would involve redrilling the pattern and pressing in 10mm studs, possibly scavenged from a vitara rear diff (the third member bolts in with 10mm studs) as an example.

Otherwise I can't figure out how you can get the bolts done up to hold the shaft on. surely you're not using 8mm studs in 10mm holes?

Steve.

Gwagen - u may be able to redrill 90deg offset to the NT bolts?

i have thought about doing to mine but will keep using the NT ones for now unlees there is more strength in the WT shafts?

edit: buy this one and suited for both

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Suzuki-Sierra-tr ... 240%3A1318

does anyone have a pic handy of the hand brake drum installed on a transfer case (NT or WT) i just want to see how far below the case it hangs

it can be a rock anchor, i am planning to add spacers under the case to lift it up a little to gain some clearance.

about 50mm below the case at a guess.

nicbeer wrote:Gwagen - u may be able to redrill 90deg offset to the NT bolts?

sure, but you've still got to press studs in. Nuts and bolts won't work.

Steve.

hmm...50mm sounds like i'll rip it out first trip. Maybe a little more thought is needed on this one. How wide is the hand brake drum? ie how far back will it push my tailshaft?

ZUKPOWER wrote:hmm...50mm sounds like i'll rip it out first trip. Maybe a little more thought is needed on this one. How wide is the hand brake drum? ie how far back will it push my tailshaft?

I'd be surprised. The car will drive side to side on the drum before it rips out. They're pretty strong. The backing plate is another matter, they get screwed up pretty quick.

In any case, it's less than 50mm, it's about 35mm from memory, and assierra's benefit from raising the transfer case 35mm anyway (helps jackshaft angle) it's no big deal.

There is no effect on the length of the tailshaft. The WT output flange is long enough that it puts the mounting face in exactly the same place it's in with the drum installed in the NT.

Steve.

nicbeer wrote:Gwagen - u may be able to redrill 90deg offset to the NT bolts?

i have thought about doing to mine but will keep using the NT ones for now unlees there is more strength in the WT shafts?

edit: buy this one and suited for both

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Suzuki-Sierra-tr ... 240%3A1318

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I drilled the drum out undersize then tapped a thread in and bolted the bolts in from the inside with some loctite. The driveshaft flages are square and don't interfere with the unused studs, or with my Calmini shaft which has round flanges and is drill for both I used all 8 studs.

Gwagensteve wrote:

nicbeer wrote:Gwagen - u may be able to redrill 90deg offset to the NT bolts?

sure, but you've still got to press studs in. Nuts and bolts won't work.

Steve.

actualy if u look there is a small rib the head of the bolt will hit against and let u tigten them up..

also a dolip of weld works quite well

hyzook wrote:
I drilled the drum out undersize then tapped a thread in and bolted the bolts in from the inside with some loctite. The driveshaft flages are square and don't interfere with the unused studs, or with my Calmini shaft which has round flanges and is drill for both I used all 8 studs.

That's a nice solution.

Steve.