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getting max flex?
Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 10:04 pm
by easeupturbo
howdy after thrashing my little zook around for a while i wanna get it better
now my question is what is the easiest and cheapest way to get max flex out of the little fella i'm making some shackels this week for a little more height but i want flex
cheers damo
Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 10:16 pm
by alien
long, soft leaves running as flat as possible.... but youll need to address tyre clearance and shock valving.
Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 10:54 pm
by PJ.zook
Flex isnt necessarily the answer to offroad ability, although it does help.
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:42 am
by get it up there
alien wrote:long, soft leaves running as flat as possible.....
x2.. But make sure there soft!! Yeah it will involve moving/making new spring hanger mounts.. but in the long run it will definatly be worth it!! hehe, bit of warning, dont ask for any info on drop shackles though... most people on here hate them
hehehehe
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:31 am
by FC3892
PJ.zook wrote:Flex isnt necessarily the answer to offroad ability, although it does help.
X2
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:36 am
by Gwagensteve
Basically, do a search.
There's no such thing as "max flex-" It really comes down the following:
How much flex you need (this is normally less than you want)
How much money you want to spend
What sort of driving you do
Whether you are going to engineer it so it's legal.
How much work you can do yourself - you'll get into fabricating quickly and we're dealing with critical stuff here, not a bumper or some sliders.
Don't underestimate the cost. This stuff can't be done for free.
Have a search and work out what sort of car you want to drive.
Remember too that lots of cars that look cool flexed up on an obstacle are actually crap to drive, on and off road.
A low, stable, predictable car with moderate flex is far more capable than a flexy car that's loose, floppy and too tall
Just some thoughts.
Steve.
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:40 am
by easeupturbo
cheers for the replies fellas i only paid $200 for the beast so the cheaper the better
i know flex isn't everything it just where i go alot is through pine plantions where the big loggers dig dirty great big ruts in the winter and when you try to cross them the old wheel dosen't go that far so the bro has to hang off the back corners and rock like a mad man ha ha
cheers damo
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:07 am
by jonno_racing
LOL
weld the diffs bru
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:11 am
by alien
yeah get some agressive tyres to deal with the mud, go up in size a bit on them and weld the rear diff.... that'll get you through most pines style tracks =)
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:18 am
by locktup4x4
alien wrote:long, soft leaves running as flat as possible.... but youll need to address tyre clearance and shock valving.
Something to do later would be wider axles. This will help with stability and articulation.
Jason
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:28 am
by Gwagensteve
X2 when the surface is slick/rutted like most pine plantations I know, you need luggy tyres and lockers. Flex doesn't help.
Steve.
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:28 am
by Guy
easeupturbo wrote:cheers for the replies fellas i only paid $200 for the beast so the cheaper the better
i know flex isn't everything it just where i go alot is through pine plantions where the big loggers dig dirty great big ruts in the winter and when you try to cross them the old wheel dosen't go that far so the bro has to hang off the back corners and rock like a mad man ha ha
cheers damo
Sounds more like you need lockers more than lots of flex to me.
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:43 am
by jonno_racing
and a V8? with NAWZ
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:24 pm
by brendan_h
flex (depending) will cost more then a locker.
locker will get you further
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:15 pm
by Turbo Tonka
agreed with everyone else mate,a locker is your better option for the moment.my little zuk doesnt flex very well at all but is low,stable(ish
) and with muddys and a rear locker it does go a very long way,pretty sure it will handle any forest track or rut and more.
Keep it simple and just keep having fun with it,you could spend a hole lot of money on suspension and still get stuck quite easy
Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:33 pm
by bazuka
if you want to go budget i recoment welding the rear diff lifting the shackles playing with your leaf packs (can be a long annoying job eg too soft too hard) but once you get them right they play a huge roll in flex and also triangulating your rear shocks gives them better travel so you wont be limited by your shocks so quickly also they are dead right about the tyers eaven if you have got wheels off the ground if you have good tyers and good traction eg locker or welded diffs the zuks are so light they will normaly crawl there way back onto all 4's