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body lift

Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:47 pm
by Jake GQ..
i am concidering doing a body lift on my 89 coil sprung GQ wagon.m it has got 2 inch irionman shocks and springs and i want to be able to run 35s would it be a good idea and wat hight would be good.

Re: body lift

Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:55 pm
by bogged
23920394230948 threads on this..

Your much better off going to a panel beater, and gettin them to trim the edges of your guards, and space your control arms forward.

Keep the car as low as possible. People have fitted 38s doing this.

Bodylifts are dodge city..

YMMV.

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 7:19 am
by HeathGQ
yeah I'm with Bogged on this. I removed my BL.

just trim whats needed, and space the arms.

Re: body lift

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 10:59 am
by macneil
bogged wrote:23920394230948 threads on this..

Your much better off going to a panel beater, and gettin them to trim the edges of your guards, and space your control arms forward.

Keep the car as low as possible. People have fitted 38s doing this.

Bodylifts are dodge city..

YMMV.
Saweet i thought i would need a 1" body lift on top of a 2" spring to stop 35's scrubbing good info there bogged..

Re: body lift

Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 2:24 pm
by micks troll
macneil wrote:
bogged wrote:23920394230948 threads on this..

Your much better off going to a panel beater, and gettin them to trim the edges of your guards, and space your control arms forward.

Keep the car as low as possible. People have fitted 38s doing this.

Bodylifts are dodge city..

YMMV.
Saweet i thought i would need a 1" body lift on top of a 2" spring to stop 35's scrubbing good info there bogged..

I wish :shock: :cool:
I have 4" springs 30mm spring spacers and 30mm bodylift and my 33's scrub hard! Definetly need to cut out guards especially rears. I have quarters chopped off but my Swampers hit the rear panel still. get the rear radius cut out about an inch and they'll clear but will still hit the inner wall! Make sure on wagons you trim the rear seatbelt bolt as it cuts into the tyre if not done (the bolts for the 6-7th seat) Otherwise get longer bump stops to limit upwards travel so it doesnt hit inner guard. I run -23 offset 15x8s ("cruiser offset") with all my tyres roadies Maxxis and play Swampers. A bit more offset wouldn't hurt but they already hang out 2"s eitherside without flares!
Hope this helps ya a bit!
Cheers Mick

Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 2:38 pm
by micks troll
I agree about the bodylift, Don't do it if you dont have to. I did mine because it cost me stuff all and with the way I mounted my rock sliders I needed more room above the chassis. 30mm looks ok without having to go to too much trouble whereas 2" is a pain. Hope this also helps

Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 3:59 pm
by twodiffs
Mex3, If i hadn't had the front bar (which incorporates winch) set up according to the body lift that was on the truck when i bought it then i would have taken it out.

Mick (micks troll), do you have soft or flexy type coils matched with a soft or minimal resistance shock absorber by any chance?

Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:30 pm
by micks troll
twodiffs wrote:Mex3, If i hadn't had the front bar (which incorporates winch) set up according to the body lift that was on the truck when i bought it then i would have taken it out.

Mick (micks troll), do you have soft or flexy type coils matched with a soft or minimal resistance shock absorber by any chance?
Mate the rear are just meduim King springs and run 765mm long procomps in the rear (actually only one as needed to put OME back in on passenger side as coil kept fallin out it's around 740mm long :oops: ) Their probably fairly sagged as they've been in for about 5 years, but still have decent hieght! if I wasn't so lazy I'd weld in some drop out cones but you cant rush these things :lol:
Here's a pic with worn out MTR's stuffed up hittin the guard. my swampers are nearly 2" taller diameter than these but so called the same size :shock: 2nd pic!
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