Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I to everybody. Sorry for my english, my name's Pino and I'm writing from Sicily. I'm an enthusiast owner of a Nissan Patrol Gr (your GQ) 2.8 td (RD28t). In Italy we have just 2.8 dreaming the 4.2 .
I decide to put on a lift kit and I ask you some suggestions. I choose the Superior 4-5 inch lift kit Superflex Radius Arms because I think that 6-7 is too mutch for the lateral stability, for the road holding ( I like go fast with my Gr).
Here's the question, what do you think about this lift kit? I think that the kit is incomplete because, after a 4-5 inch kit, is necessary a drive shaft with double spider journal ( I hope is write correct). This is necessary to avoid insane vibrations. What other modification are necessary to put on the lift kit that I want to buy?
Thank you to everybodies for your attention.

P.s. Some years ago I went in Brisbane... Wonderfull!!!

Unless you have a SWB Patrol there is no need for the double cardin joints in your tailshaft. We use adjustable upper trailing arms to realign the pinion angle which eliminates any vibrations.

The picture you have has a very short tailshaft which would indicate a SWB but I don't know if this is for illustration purposes only.

I was told when fitting the double cardin shaft to my SWB that running 2 double joints as pictured wouldn't work out very well. I can't remember whether it was because of the increased angle of the shaft because the joints are so much bigger going beyond its range of movement which is often less the normal uni joints or whether it was because it was weaker or both.

Others may have more information.

Shane

In italy 85% of Patrol are SWB. Sorry for the imprecision. The mine is also a SWB.
The driveshaft i POsted is fixed in a Gq SWB with 6-7 lift kit. In this way we avoid to realign the pinion angle and we eliminate any vibrations.
This is the common way that we use in Italy but is so expensive...
And what about the lift kit I like to buy?
I'm interesting about the changing on-road. I like to go fast and in Italy there are a lot of corner...

For anything over a 4" lift there is no guaratees you will get rid of vibrations from using upper adjustable trailing arms.
In Australia I don't think we got the 2.8TD in a SWB at all.

We normally sell 3.5-4" lift kits with flexy coils for the SWB and people don't need the driveshaft, but anything over it is hit and miss.

If I were you I would purchase the very expensive driveshaft for anything 4 inches and higher.

Shane

IMO,
get upper and lower adjustable rear arms, then rotate the pinion untill it points at the tcase output. Then you will only need one double cardan joint (at the tcase). Its the same setup as on many SWB rigs. plus try not go over 4", its just extra height for no benefit, as all the shocks from 4" up have no more travel just a greater closed length.

1MadEngineer wrote:IMO,
get upper and lower adjustable rear arms, then rotate the pinion untill it points at the tcase output. Then you will only need one double cardan joint (at the tcase). Its the same setup as on many SWB rigs. plus try not go over 4", its just extra height for no benefit, as all the shocks from 4" up have no more travel just a greater closed length.

That's exactly what I did with my shorty but you have to cut and rotate your spring perches and your shock mounts to make this work which is a pain when you go to sell the shorty.

I will add to this by saying that the double cardin joint was very close to the limit before she binded up. If you go to the double cardan joint at both ends it is only going to increase the angle. You can probably get high angle joints, dunno.

Why do you say that going to the single double cardan joint setup is better?

What about a high pinion rear diff?

Gearbox spacers?

1MadEngineer wrote:IMO,
get upper and lower adjustable rear arms, then rotate the pinion untill it points at the tcase output. Then you will only need one double cardan joint (at the tcase). Its the same setup as on many SWB rigs. plus try not go over 4", its just extra height for no benefit, as all the shocks from 4" up have no more travel just a greater closed length.

A problem with just rotating the pinion to point at the t/case output is that the pinion gear can lose lubrication.
I've got no personel experience with this, but aparrantly if you don't set up double cardinal joints to work at almost no angle when at normal ride height they won't last very long .
High pinion in the rear is a good idea, so are adjustable upper links.
spacing down your t/case crossmember can also help.
Superior engineering are a good company to deal with too

steel wrote:

1MadEngineer wrote:IMO,
get upper and lower adjustable rear arms, then rotate the pinion untill it points at the tcase output. Then you will only need one double cardan joint (at the tcase). Its the same setup as on many SWB rigs. plus try not go over 4", its just extra height for no benefit, as all the shocks from 4" up have no more travel just a greater closed length.

A problem with just rotating the pinion to point at the t/case output is that the pinion gear can lose lubrication.
I've got no personel experience with this, but aparrantly if you don't set up double cardinal joints to work at almost no angle when at normal ride height they won't last very long .
High pinion in the rear is a good idea, so are adjustable upper links.
spacing down your t/case crossmember can also help.
Superior engineering are a good company to deal with too

The whole point of double cardan joints is so you can run them on bigger angles.

Spacing the transfercase is a bandaid solution that works for moderate lifts.

I never blew a diff with my pinion facing up but I can see your point.

Shane

You can probably get high angle joints, dunno.

Uni joints that are used with P.T.O equipment have a huge missallignment working range and an equally sized joint is alot shorter than a double card.

steel wrote:You can probably get high angle joints, dunno.

Uni joints that are used with P.T.O equipment have a huge missallignment working range and an equally sized joint is alot shorter than a double card.

That's what I found so to get double cardan joints at both ends to go on a 6" lift shorty would have to have a large degree of working range.

Shane

actually most DC joints have less working angle than the equivalent UJ. the toyota DC has one of the largest running angles ~35deg max. but the 1310 UJ can easily run at near 40+deg. The main reason for pointing the pinion at the TC output is to reduce the static running angle of the DC and also to give the UJ a near 0 phase of operation, this reduces/cancels vibration. The main reason we see all these super expensive 'double double' cardan (not cardinal! they work at the church) is due to guys being too slack to modify stuff properly. Cut the mounts/spring seats/panhard mount and get them in the right orientation, PLEASE do it right. not just a half-arsed effort like some? hey even suzuki guys can go to the effort, surely a nissan owner can do it properly too? as for pinion oil starvation, oil slingers are available, you just have to know where to look .