Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey frankie

my cv boots have started to split, i heard from you i think that i can use the cv boots from a skoobydoo.

is that right and have you got part nubers or some sort of a referance.

thanks dino

Phew... thought you were talking about those boots that you screw together and dont have to take the cv out for. Your talking about your current cvs boots being split.

Carry on.

Deano they were from a 90 Subaru Liberty 2wd. They are the same size except 20mm longer and we thought they wouldn't stretch as far on the angled CV.
But it split within 3 months.
I just recently replaced the inner boots with factory boots, they are by far the strongest of all the aftermarket boots I looked at.
I think the problem is that once you crank your torsion bars and the boots were used to the previous working angles (rubber sort of has a memory) it can't adapt to the new angles so splits soon after, I hear this so often with IFS rigs.
With the new boots they get used to working at the acuter angles from new and theoretically should last a lot longer.
Manual hubs certainly help here as they will stop the driveshafts spinning in 2wd preserving both boot and CV life.
I've replaced one CV joint and 3 boots (all inners) now in 3 yrs, fact of life with lifted IFS. Learn how to remove your driveshafts, dismantle the CV's and replace the boots it's way cheaper. Takes a few hours but messy.
I also searched in the US for those mega-lifted IFS Toyo's that have the colored boots (red, yellow etc) but they are for show, no stronger than a factory boot. Quite a few suspension guys told that the factory boots are by far the best compared to the cheaper aftermarket ones. I rang around everywhere.
Factory boots are around the $140 mark each, aftermarket boots $25 but there is nothing in between.
I just wonder if there is a market for a super heavy duty aftermarket CV boot ? I've seen multi-fit ones where you just cut off each rib to get to your size.

Manual hubs are probably the best solution. I spent the $200 for some AVM manual hubs from ARB bout a year ago now and haven't changed a boot since. Before that it was a new set f boots every 6 months But not anymore

Mike did you use factory or aftermarket boots ? When I got the manual hubs I put on a new aftermarket boot (left hand inner) and it split within 3 months.

umm i have aftermarket on there now and haven't had a singel one go. mind you i am probably not 4b ing anywhere near as much as you. last time it went in 4x4 was when i pulled the forklift out of a bog at work adn before that was june long weekend last year. not really the best comparison.

I'd be interested to see who makes the boots for Mitsubishi. A few years ago I replaced the diffs in a Daihatsu and had to buy the swivel housing seals. The seals in packets marked Daihatsu were around $120, to buy normal old NOK seals was $40. When I finally pulled the seals out of the diff housing , surprise surprise they were NOK seals, same part no everything.
Frank did you try a shop that works on PTO shafts (hardy-spicer) or other drivelines? The boots they have on some of these take a lot of punishment and I was wondering if they may be able to supply something that an auto parts retailer can't.
My boots are looking a bit sad and I will need to replace them at some stage so any thing that is an improvement would be great.

Craig

Ive replaced both inner boots L/R, the left twice. Last time had a stick go through it. Now I know how to do it and have the tools, they dont split. I get mine from Repco.

A mate of mine who is a mechanic has a special spreader tool that puts CV boots on without dismantling the CV, the tool is about $600, and the boots to fit it are $25 each (trade price) as opposed to $7 each trade price for standard CV boots. Yes, the boots you and I pay $25 each for are $7 trade!

My reason for mentioning this is that the boots for the Slider have a lot of stretch in them (they are one size fits most, cut to fit) so that they will stretch over the cv, and I'm thinking that they would be less worried about the angles due to the enhanced stretch! Could be worth checking out! I can probably find out more info if required!

Cheers, Dean

Blair (Noisey) did find an aftermarket supplier of CV boots (it could have been BJ Bearings ??) and guess what they were the genuine Mitsu ones !!! They were about $40 Each from memory, when he gets back from O/S I'll ask him.

i have torn my inner passenger side boot after lifting the front 45mm. it had only been lifted 1 month before i put the manual hubs on. i noticed it when fitting them-bummer !!
i deal with CBC bearing supplies(adelaide) through work and they can supply boots for $13, KOK brand.
the genuine inner boots are NTN(17-28 # BJ95) ones ($197ea from dealers)and they are looking into trying to find them for me. will let you all know if they can source them.
is there any special tips for replacing the cv boots ??
cookie monster

make sure you get them imac' clean...no forein matter can be in there or you loose alot of life off of them

What did you use to get them clean?

use a rag and a brush if theres any buildup of crap

Ok so it is my turn to replace a cv boot ........ so I've read the posts and recon I can do it myself (anyone one in bris got a ball joint splitter I can borrow) Its been gone for awhile and needs to be done soon. So ok seems mitsi boots are the best ??????? even though more expensive has anyone found any aftermarket ones as good???????

Grumpy - you won't need a ball joint splitter if you can't getone. Yes they are easier but a FBHammer does work. Sometimes it takes a number of whacks. Don't bash down on a loose nut and thread but hit the side of the joint to jolt it loose.

Not sure if it is good luck or not but I have never split one! CV's are running pretty level though with free wheeling hubs.

mate i use to split a thousand boots in my shorty.

never went the genuine items because of cost mainly, local cv/driveshaft bloke use to sell me boots with grease $10, too easy. they use to last anywehre from a month to 6 months. Best ones i had were from a daweoo actually, they were the latest ones i put on it, when i sold the shorty it had split cv boots/no grease, told the guy id fix it no worries, went to wreckers, and bought two whole new driveshafts with genuine boots = $100. best hundred bucks i ever spent, wish i hadve done it earlier when i still owned it.

you dont need a ball joint splitter, just whack the crapper out of the balljoint on the side, eventually they will break loose, the hubs are prettty damn heavy as a full item so be careful, got it down to 45 mins a side to change cv boots, from wheel nuts loose to wheel nuts tight.

dean.

Zute wrote:Ive replaced both inner boots L/R, the left twice. Last time had a stick go through it. Now I know how to do it and have the tools, they dont split. I get mine from Repco.

So, how about a detailed how to do it guide as seen by you instead of vauge workshop instructions

Go on - please

Cheers thanks for the replys .....unfortunatly I got bigger probloems now and the boot will have to wait awhile.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic139218.php