Outer Limits 4x4 Board

could the reason that i am sheering all the rear axle studs off on the short side of the rear of a fj62 be because the locator studs have sheered off as well?

that will contribute to the studs sheering off, it is known that the stock 8mm studs wont stand up to a lot of beating

replacing the locating dowels and upgrading to 10mm studs should fix your problems

where do you buy these 10mm upgrade kits?

there is a good thread somewhere on the toy board from dumbdunce on how,what,where and why you should upgrade.

i did mne recently and havent had a drama since.


you can buy the 10mm studs, cone washes, nuts and split washes n a kit from don kyatt (100 Series replacement part) for like $35 a corner.

you then need to machine your hub and axle flange

it helps if the locating studs are also there and your axle isnt bent

planb wrote:there is a good thread somewhere on the toy board from dumbdunce on how,what,where and why you should upgrade.

i did mne recently and havent had a drama since.


you can buy the 10mm studs, cone washes, nuts and split washes n a kit from don kyatt (100 Series replacement part) for like $35 a corner.

you then need to machine your hub and axle flange

it helps if the locating studs are also there and your axle isnt bent

marshall, planb is spot on, like I already told you to get your rear axle on an aligner and check if the axle housing is bent - if the housing is bent a truck aligner can straighten it. also get the axle itself checked for straightness - Shannon can do this at work! if the housing or axle is bent and you upgrade to the 10mm studs you will fatigue and eventually snap the axle shaft which can be difficult and expensive to replace especially if it snaps in the middle. if the axle shaft is bent replace it. if the drive flange is out of square have it corrected by machining. because you are regularly breaking studs, even on road, the problem is NOT the studs, there is something misaligned that is causing the repeated failures. upgrading to 10mm studs in your case is not a solution until the CAUSE of the failures is rectified.

the tech is here http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... +stud+axle

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383FJ45 wrote:where do you buy these 10mm upgrade kits?

don kyatt sells third party ones, or you can get genuine ones from toyota.

I have had it checked out and everything is straight!

so i have put a new hub in. so far no wories on road the next test will be off the road!

dumbdunce wrote:

383FJ45 wrote:where do you buy these 10mm upgrade kits?

don kyatt sells third party ones, or you can get genuine ones from toyota.

cool. and awesome writeup.

would you know how much more expensive the toyota ones are?
and im in melbourne does that just make the don kyatt ones completely useless to me? because of shipping?

MaccA

Don Kyatt is in Nth Melbourne and Moorabbin

thanks

dig.

has anyone tried swapping out the brokeback studs and cones for 10mm cap screws (a la nissan) ??

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscom ... d403800804

they are very good as i use them

Wendle wrote:dig.

has anyone tried swapping out the brokeback studs and cones for 10mm cap screws (a la nissan) ??

yes this is what I now use. M10x1.25 x 45mm with an 8mm allen drive head, makes axle removeal very easy. no cones, no worries. had the rear of my 80 with cap screws for about 10,000km, and they have stood up to three diff swaps and some locker abuse on rocks.

dumbdunce wrote:yes this is what I now use. M10x1.25 x 45mm with an 8mm allen drive head, makes axle removeal very easy. no cones, no worries. had the rear of my 80 with cap screws for about 10,000km, and they have stood up to three diff swaps and some locker abuse on rocks.

cool. that's what we will do then. thanks.

i can not believe the level of homosexuality the stock studs possess.

dumbdunce wrote:

Wendle wrote:dig.

has anyone tried swapping out the brokeback studs and cones for 10mm cap screws (a la nissan) ??

yes this is what I now use. M10x1.25 x 45mm with an 8mm allen drive head, makes axle removeal very easy. no cones, no worries. had the rear of my 80 with cap screws for about 10,000km, and they have stood up to three diff swaps and some locker abuse on rocks.

any pictures of this setup dumbdunce?

dumbdunce wrote:

Wendle wrote:dig.

has anyone tried swapping out the brokeback studs and cones for 10mm cap screws (a la nissan) ??

yes this is what I now use. M10x1.25 x 45mm with an 8mm allen drive head, makes axle removeal very easy. no cones, no worries. had the rear of my 80 with cap screws for about 10,000km, and they have stood up to three diff swaps and some locker abuse on rocks.

I used hitensile socket head cap screws in the old days (8mm) and found the too hard and would break, when the 100's first came out i got a set of studs, collets, nuts and washers had a special cutter made to cut the seats for the collets fitted a set up and never looked back. The stud is better system as the slud locks into the hub tight ( i use loctite as well ) and the collet locks on to the plain section of the stud makeing it a real solid connection. Bolts that short usually have thread up to the head so the collar would be locking onto the top of the threads. I do agree that they are easier to remove but if all is kept in good condition and you dont hit the side of the axle flange to pop the collets that damages the collet bores it works out purfect. I have used the Kyatts studs on heaps of conversion and never had a problem with them works out about a third of the cost of using genuine parts.

Wally

the 10mm cap screws worked well. strong enough to hold up without the dowells that couldn't be put in because the housing was too bent

Hey
Do u by chance have an auto loka in the rear??? These hammer the studs more than an oem diff centre and may well be the cause of the failure....
Not having the dowels in there will severely weaken the setup.
Heard of the 10mm dowels being put in the 80 axle/hub which will fix any damage to the 8mm holes...
Andrew