Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have a 97 GQ 2.8td Patrol which im having over heating problems with
It only starts to get hot when it is underload eg.climbing hills and towing
i have put a bigger radiator in it,replaced the waterpump,fan clutch,thermostate,has any one else had a this problem and if so what did you do to fix it other than pulling it out and burning it and putting the 4.2td in
If i was to put an intercooler on it would you think this would help.

Have the fuel pump tested for over fueling

stool wrote:Have the fuel pump tested for over fueling

What he says..

The gauge could be faulty.
Is it using water?
If its using water,where is it going?
Do you have lights,winch,bull bar?
Is the a/c condencor blocked mud bugs?
Fitting a bigger radiator doesnt always fix o/heating problems It will take longer for the o/heating to occure as more water will take longer to heat up.
Check for water pump cavitation google for the instructions to do that.
It sounds like a air flow froblem. Intercooling isnt the answer to fix your problem It will help in other areas.
I hope this info helps

Thanks Guys
For your suggestions

THe Gauge seems to be working
It is fitted with a winch and driving lights but there is plenty of room for air flow throw the grill.
The a/c condensor and radiator has been taken out and cleaned so no blokage there.
If it was over fueling wouldnt it be blowing smoke coz it isnt.

could be a headgasket.

It wouldnt want to be a head gasket its a new motor but thanks anyway

ironpipe wrote:It wouldnt want to be a head gasket its a new motor but thanks anyway

Has it started since the engine rebuild?

Hobbz wrote:could be a headgasket.

Never seen a RD28T blowing a headgasket without cracking the head about 0.005 seconds later and since the RD28T was the only, officially, avail. engine in Germany I've seen a whole lot of them.

Offroad-Events wrote:

Hobbz wrote:could be a headgasket.

Never seen a RD28T blowing a headgasket without cracking the head about 0.005 seconds later and since the RD28T was the only, officially, avail. engine in Germany I've seen a whole lot of them.

I know ... The first one i had overheated and blew all the coolant out, the second one just overheated and the third just presurises the coolant system ... so in my opinion it "could" be a headgasket or a head

I've seen more than one blow head gaskets without cracking the heads, although the signs were always more than just overheating on hills/towing

the gauge may work but is it accurate put a tempary gauge in it & check it
I have seen many o/heating problems & the vehical wasnt getting hot it was the factory gauge telling lies & many dollars spent they didnt have too
If its a head gasket or head it will be using water. Is it?

Seen a lot of these , sounds like the maybe a crack in the head that opens under boost pressure . Is it a new head or your old head reconditioned ? The engineering shop may have missed the crack as they are often around the valve seats .

ironpipe wrote:I have a 97 GQ 2.8td Patrol which im having over heating problems with
It only starts to get hot when it is underload eg.climbing hills and towing
i have put a bigger radiator in it,replaced the waterpump,fan clutch,thermostate,has any one else had a this problem and if so what did you do to fix it other than pulling it out and burning it and putting the 4.2td in
If i was to put an intercooler on it would you think this would help.

Does it overheat or does it just run hotter when climbing hills / towing?
If running hotter how far up does the needle get too?
Are you loosing coolant?

I had this problem and I was loosing coolant and kept having to top it up every so often and it was the valve on the top radiator hose not holding pressure. Was about $10 to fix.

msjc38 wrote:the gauge may work but is it accurate put a tempary gauge in it & check it
I have seen many o/heating problems & the vehical wasnt getting hot it was the factory gauge telling lies & many dollars spent they didnt have too
If its a head gasket or head it will be using water. Is it?

The gauge does work because it said it was above high and the overflow bottle was boiling its arss off.

T_Diesel wrote:

ironpipe wrote:I have a 97 GQ 2.8td Patrol which im having over heating problems with
It only starts to get hot when it is underload eg.climbing hills and towing
i have put a bigger radiator in it,replaced the waterpump,fan clutch,thermostate,has any one else had a this problem and if so what did you do to fix it other than pulling it out and burning it and putting the 4.2td in
If i was to put an intercooler on it would you think this would help.

Does it overheat or does it just run hotter when climbing hills / towing?
If running hotter how far up does the needle get too?
Are you loosing coolant?

I had this problem and I was loosing coolant and kept having to top it up every so often and it was the valve on the top radiator hose not holding pressure. Was about $10 to fix.

The gauge sits around half way until i start to climb a hill ect then rises to 3/4 even more on a warm day

bogged wrote:

ironpipe wrote:It wouldnt want to be a head gasket its a new motor but thanks anyway

Has it started since the engine rebuild?

No i had the same problem before the new motor went in

ironpipe wrote:

T_Diesel wrote:

ironpipe wrote:I have a 97 GQ 2.8td Patrol which im having over heating problems with
It only starts to get hot when it is underload eg.climbing hills and towing
i have put a bigger radiator in it,replaced the waterpump,fan clutch,thermostate,has any one else had a this problem and if so what did you do to fix it other than pulling it out and burning it and putting the 4.2td in
If i was to put an intercooler on it would you think this would help.

Does it overheat or does it just run hotter when climbing hills / towing?
If running hotter how far up does the needle get too?
Are you loosing coolant?

I had this problem and I was loosing coolant and kept having to top it up every so often and it was the valve on the top radiator hose not holding pressure. Was about $10 to fix.

The gauge sits around half way until i start to climb a hill ect then rises to 3/4 even more on a warm day

Mine rises the same on long steep climbs but it goes back down to between 1/2 and 1/3 after the climb.

The manual says that normal and safe running temp is up to the line just below the H. They are only little engines pushing a big lump of steel so they do get warm. IMHO, I don't think the cooling systems on GQs work that well.

As long as its not running 3/4s on flat roads and it drops down to below 1/2 after a hill climb, I wouldn't worry about it. Just keep an eye on your coolant levels and monitor it while your driving. It used to bother me, b ut I just keep an eye on it these days........

Sure that all air is out of the cooling system ? The RD28T needs a special procedure for bleeding and holds air pockets if not bleeded correctly.

the head is routed or the clutch fan is stuffed needing silicone try that first the clutch fan if thats fine the haed is cracked could be a small hairline crack that you would be able to pressure test and check most likely on the exhaust side then you will ever know

Offroad-Events wrote:Sure that all air is out of the cooling system ? The RD28T needs a special procedure for bleeding and holds air pockets if not bleeded correctly.

I have long suspected this as I have had trouble bleeding mine.
Care to elabarate on this...and ...more to the point ...post up the correct way to bleed them for those of us that wanna do it properly??
I,m sure that it will help a lot of RD 28 owners in OZ.

Cheers Keith

Remove plug in top radiator hose than fill the radiator with coolant
untill it spills out this plug hole{ Than reinstall plug }

Next step

Remove the rubber plug up on the heater hose against the fire`wall

Start the engine and run hot air out of the heater vents

Keep topping up the radiator un`till a good flow of coolant flows out of the
bleed point with out air bubbles

Re install bung on heater hose and radiator cap

Done

Thanks guys for your suggestion

We think we have solved the problem we burnt the bastard (joking)
We took the radiator out tonight and gave it a good clean again(there was still alot of mud in the corners) and replaced the front muffler with a staight through muffler and it bloody worked (thank god)
I pushed it hard through the hills near my house at 100km plus and the temp didnt go over 1/3
With changing the muffler i have found the turbo is kicking in a bit early and seems to have more grunt (thats if you can get more out of that little peice of crap they call a motor)

Thanks again

As stool says, easiest way to completely bleed the system.
I discovered also that the RD28T runs best with no muffler at all, just straight thru with the biggest diameter avail.
Turbo kicks in about 300rpm earlier (had a boost gauge on mine) and is not too loud.

ironpipe wrote:Thanks guys for your suggestion

We think we have solved the problem we burnt the bastard (joking)
We took the radiator out tonight and gave it a good clean again(there was still alot of mud in the corners) and replaced the front muffler with a staight through muffler and it bloody worked (thank god)
I pushed it hard through the hills near my house at 100km plus and the temp didnt go over 1/3
With changing the muffler i have found the turbo is kicking in a bit early and seems to have more grunt (thats if you can get more out of that little peice of crap they call a motor)

Thanks again

Where did you get the muffler from, and how much?

All hail the RD28...... Just did another head on one at work today!!

T_Diesel wrote:

ironpipe wrote:Thanks guys for your suggestion

We think we have solved the problem we burnt the bastard (joking)
We took the radiator out tonight and gave it a good clean again(there was still alot of mud in the corners) and replaced the front muffler with a staight through muffler and it bloody worked (thank god)
I pushed it hard through the hills near my house at 100km plus and the temp didnt go over 1/3
With changing the muffler i have found the turbo is kicking in a bit early and seems to have more grunt (thats if you can get more out of that little peice of crap they call a motor)

Thanks again

Where did you get the muffler from, and how much?

From the bottom of a HQ ute sitting in a mates paddock but i was told there around the $150 mark