Outer Limits 4x4 Board

had my front wheel bearings done by a local mechanic at the same time as having swivel hubs and seals etc done. Since having them done they are constantly coming lose. Within a matter of 2 weeks of normal driving they are noticabley lose (rattling, shaking and carrying on when turning or coming down from speed). Have had them tightened twice and now they are lose again!! Different place did them second time as i was in a hurry on my way out of town for the weekend.

Any ideas?? did i get dodgy bearings? over / under tensioned?

getting sick of this
cheers

GQ i assume?

They have a real crappy lock washer setup.

The GU has a proper keyed and bolted lock washer.

When the threads on the stub axle get fretted they never really lock properly again.

I think the GU lock washer setup will fit the GQ spindle...?

buy this and re-do them.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Hub-Socket-Nut-K ... 240%3A1318

they look the go mate!

yeh its a gq. do other people have this problem??

we had the problem with the GQ Ute

Fixed it with a GU front end swap (mostly for strength and steering box)

I know of another 4 GQ's with the problem.

Its not super common but once they run loose a few times it wrecks the spindle.

rumpig89 wrote:yeh its a gq. do other people have this problem??

Yep, everyone does, esp if they reuse the lock washer and don't tighten the lock nuts properly. They need to be torqued up, not tightened and then backed off like you do with other types. It happens mostly on the left side. Best solution is to use the lockable nuts, as already suggested, but you'll need to make up a special tool to tighten them.

AJS wrote:

rumpig89 wrote:yeh its a gq. do other people have this problem??

Yep, everyone does, esp if they reuse the lock washer and don't tighten the lock nuts properly. They need to be torqued up, not tightened and then backed off like you do with other types. It happens mostly on the left side. Best solution is to use the lockable nuts, as already suggested, but you'll need to make up a special tool to tighten them.

thanks alot for your responses.

i was just reading on 'exploreoz' that they need to be tightened to 167-196Nm, spin the wheel a few times, then back off to 0Nm, then tighten to 3.5Nm. does this sound right??

I noticed u said they need to be 'torqued up' does this mean dont back them off that all?? Torque settings? cheers

had a mechanic do my swivel hubs and bearings done 500 odd k ago because i needed them done on that day as i was doing around 250 klm a day for work, plus i've never done them before..I've noticed the hubs get pretty hot. Too tight?

i just did the wheel bearing on my car,

The hubs have always been hot after a drive around.

its been about 100km so far and havent noticed any issues with it yet. gulp.

I tightened them up just using a punch and a hammer (only thing i had), spun the wheel a few times and then jammed them on again just not as tight.

I'm starting to think i should pull them apart and check them again.

rumpig89 wrote:

AJS wrote:

rumpig89 wrote:yeh its a gq. do other people have this problem??

Yep, everyone does, esp if they reuse the lock washer and don't tighten the lock nuts properly. They need to be torqued up, not tightened and then backed off like you do with other types. It happens mostly on the left side. Best solution is to use the lockable nuts, as already suggested, but you'll need to make up a special tool to tighten them.

thanks alot for your responses.

i was just reading on 'exploreoz' that they need to be tightened to 167-196Nm, spin the wheel a few times, then back off to 0Nm, then tighten to 3.5Nm. does this sound right??

I noticed u said they need to be 'torqued up' does this mean dont back them off that all?? Torque settings? cheers

No, what you said is correct for the adjusting nut. What I meant was don't just tighten them up and then back off a quarter turn (like I used to do), use the correct torque settings. You then put on a new lock washer and tighten the lock nut to the specified torque setting (167 - 196 NM).

The hub nuts actually take a 53 MM socket, not 54 like most people think. Having that extra slop in there also doesn't help when you're trying to torque them up. Having said that, a lot of people just tighten everything up with a hammer and chisel whilst reusing the old washers, and don't have any problems. Personally, I gave that method away after my first loose wheel.

nellyb1 wrote:i just did the wheel bearing on my car,

The hubs have always been hot after a drive around.

its been about 100km so far and havent noticed any issues with it yet. gulp.

I tightened them up just using a punch and a hammer (only thing i had), spun the wheel a few times and then jammed them on again just not as tight.

I'm starting to think i should pull them apart and check them again.

The brakes will heat up the hubs alot more than over tight bearings will. As long as you have good quality grease and new bearings then you wont have a problem better too tight than too loose especially with bigger tyres/wheels.

hell. i must sya i'm glad this one came up.

thanks for the info.

Another thing I should have mentioned before: If you ever have to reuse an old lock washer, the most important part to check is not actually the washer surface but the little tab that slots into the keyway on the stub axle shaft. If the tab has been worn down, the washer wont grip on the shaft and will then allow the nuts to undo with the rotation of the wheel.

Even if you do use a brand new washer, you need to be careful when you tighten the locknut up because sometimes it grips the lock washer, turns it and in doing that, strips the tab off. That's why it's best to use the correct socket and torque settings. Even better is to replace the nuts as suggested.

Fit the Gu setup it is much better and will fit the GQ, i'm on my third GQ and have fitted these to each one.

hobzees kit that i linked above comes with the tool you need to do them up it goes into a 1/2in drive.