Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just wondering what other diff centres fit the front of an 80 series.


I'm running 37's and front locker so i do need a bit of strength



cheers

cookie

in my opinion it will handle 37s.

have you broken one yet?
you can get a solid pinion spacer etc to help.

i run 42s and thus far no dramas with 80 front diff.

obviously a bigger diff would mean less problems but its doable.

yea i have a 80s fron diff in my bundera, it has a locker and longfield Cvs and axles and 42" iroks still havent broken anything. but definatley a solid pinion spacer

Love the confidence in the diffs guys but does anyone know if any other centre apart from 80 one that fit into the 80 housing

yes, and no.

While the solid spacer thing was brought up. How do you go about knowing what lenght to make it??
I was thinking along the line of removing the original spacer and messuring it up and make one from there.
Is this right??

So i take it that nobody knows!!!!!

100 series and 79 series. 100 series will be a 4.3. Thats what I'm running in my lux front.

cookiesmonsta wrote:Just wondering what other diff centres fit the front of an 80 series.


I'm running 37's and front locker so i do need a bit of strength



cheers

cookie

Ill think youll find problem stems from the physical size of the ring gear/carrier assembly being smaller than some of the other competition out there, which in turn has been attributed to failures.

A locker certainly helps to reduce the amount of flex in the hemisphere, and upgrades such as solid pinion spacers also go one step further. The diffs can also be remodelled using 60 series/gq/gq centres aswell which feature much larger carrier and R&P assemblies. There has been a few threads so id suggest a search would yield the information you require

Get a Gu front diff and 2Dextreme makes radius arms to make it bolt striaght in.

Grant

RV80 wrote:Get a Gu front diff and 2Dextreme makes radius arms to make it bolt striaght in.

Grant

that would be downgrading!!! less flex AND less strength....

1MadEngineer wrote:

RV80 wrote:Get a Gu front diff and 2Dextreme makes radius arms to make it bolt striaght in.

Grant

that would be downgrading!!! less flex AND less strength....

EH!!!!!

I don't geddit. For sure the bush arrangement stinks but the diff is definately bigger and more reliable. I don't believe all the horsesh*t about the cv's being stronger. They appear to be the same size to me and the GU inner axle looks like spaghetti. Not only that you can't get Longfields for GU

However diff center for diff center i'd have the GU

1MadEngineer wrote:

RV80 wrote:Get a Gu front diff and 2Dextreme makes radius arms to make it bolt striaght in.

Grant

that would be downgrading!!! less flex AND less strength....

It really all comes down to how much money he wants to spend? I would be getting 80UTE to make me one of his new high clearence diffs with GQ centre, longfeilds etc.

Grant

Willy Hilux wrote:100 series and 79 series. 100 series will be a 4.3. Thats what I'm running in my lux front.

Thanks willy hilux. i will look into he 79 series as i'm not looking to changa ratios just yet(too busy to do both ends,just want to get it driving all four wheels again)



Cookie

there are ways to stiffen up the 80 series diff, strength for weight it can't be beaten. Replace the 8mm mounting studs with 10mm. replace the guts of the diff with a limited slip (eg bundera rear) or air locker. some people will argue in favour of a solid pinion bearing spacer also.

This setup will make the diff itself way stronger than the CV's and blowing a CV is far cheaper and easier to fix than a blown diff. you can take the "fuse" another step further outboard if you want by only running 3 or 4 studs on your locking hub or drive plate, then they will shear before the CV give up - but failures will be more frequent, just cheaper and easier to fix.

a 79/105 series front is essentially the same diff so there's nothing to gain by fitting one unless you want the ratio change from the 105, but you can't use the 105 rear diff in the 80.

i would worry about breaking axles and cv's

so lets have some real input from actual personal experience here! who has a built to the eyeballs GQ/GU front here? chromo cv's and axles, billet drive flanges, billet 1" kingpins, shaved plated trussed and braced?? we do! and it is still weaker than a F###'n built hilux diff. So sorry you can't convince me on a bit of BS hear-say how good they are.
If you want one they go for it, good luck competing on it. Maybe we can come and watch you fixing it.....

1MadEngineer wrote:so lets have some real input from actual personal experience here! who has a built to the eyeballs GQ/GU front here? chromo cv's and axles, billet drive flanges, billet 1" kingpins, shaved plated trussed and braced?? we do! and it is still weaker than a F###'n built hilux diff. So sorry you can't convince me on a bit of BS hear-say how good they are.
If you want one they go for it, good luck competing on it. Maybe we can come and watch you fixing it.....

i cant make sense of wat u mean there...........

money_killer wrote:

1MadEngineer wrote:so lets have some real input from actual personal experience here! who has a built to the eyeballs GQ/GU front here? chromo cv's and axles, billet drive flanges, billet 1" kingpins, shaved plated trussed and braced?? we do! and it is still weaker than a F###'n built hilux diff. So sorry you can't convince me on a bit of BS hear-say how good they are.
If you want one they go for it, good luck competing on it. Maybe we can come and watch you fixing it.....

i cant make sense of wat u mean there...........

it's pretty straightforward. it boils down to a toyota 8" is stronger than a Nissan H233B. I wish he'd keep quiet about it through - if everyone thinks the Nissan bits are better, it keeps the second hand price of toyota bits low