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swb to 110" WBE help needed!!!!!!
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:09 pm
by mud_runner_GQ
how you going.
im in the process of doing a WBE on my shorty.
But have afew Q's
1. the brake proportoining valve, do you move it? remove it? do something with it??? help!!!
2. how did you do yours???
3. got any pics??
i did a search and looked at ozy1's truck (still runnung coils) and zook60's (again with coils) tryed looking a barstos rig but pics are gone. Any help would be great. i know i have forgotten something but hay, and help would be great.
also wont be running springs, as im going air shock, and will be staying with a 4link.
thanks
Tom.D
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:21 pm
by ozy1
with my setup my engineer asked me to keep the proprtioning valve so as you know i relocated it, and set it up to suit, i dont really think it does all the much, in mysetup as the spring seems to fall off all the time when the truck flexes,
it will all depens weather you are gunna get your truck engineered or not
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:23 pm
by mud_runner_GQ
the truck is off road only
are you able to put a pic of how you mounted it. and extended the lines
thanks
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 7:02 pm
by mud_runner_GQ
were have you guys put this??? need help!! plz!!!
is you can put up some pics.
thanks
tom
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 7:19 pm
by ozy1
ill get some pics tomorrow as i lost all mine in a recent computer crash,
as for the brake lines i got some flared joiners and some brake line from the local brake place, if its off road only there is no need why you need to fit it really, as it only alters brake pressure when load is applied in the rear
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 7:24 pm
by mud_runner_GQ
ozy1 wrote:ill get some pics tomorrow as i lost all mine in a recent computer crash,
as for the brake lines i got some flared joiners and some brake line from the local brake place, if its off road only there is no need why you need to fit it really, as it only alters brake pressure when load is applied in the rear
so what you are saying i don't need it. thanks for that.
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:01 pm
by ozy1
you just have to see where it plumbs back to, cause it has a feed from the master a line to the rear diff, then one back to the front, im not sure where it actually goes thou,
you could also run an adjustable valve in the cab with the re-routed lines and you could adjust it,
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:08 pm
by mud_runner_GQ
do you know if you can just adjust it up to say 70-30 and not run the spring??? and i can just mount it to a bracket???
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:42 pm
by ozy1
there is a bolt, i think its 10mm im pretty sure it adjusts the open and closing distances, like i said mine normally runs without the spring once it falls off, i only refit it when i get home,
there will be someone else with alot more info than i can provide, i thought others would have piped up by now
Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 6:24 pm
by Nelso
My valve seized years ago so I no longer have the spring on and it pulls up fine. If you aren't running it on the road just get rid of it altogether.