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Welding up holes in the floor for a Rego inspection.

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:06 am
by casbro
Hi guys,
I'm as some of you know fixing up an 84' softtop for my daughter who turns 18 this may.
The sierra had rust in the passenger side floor, i've since welded in the same thickness steel from a donor shell.
These weld's are quitre difficult to do on such thin metal so i've had to do an overlapping stich weld so i don't blow though the thin metal.
BUT heres the twist i've had a guy at a R.W.C place tell me that the weld has to be continuous. any one know what constitutes a legal weld?
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P.s there are no holes its a gasless mig so quite a bit of slag
thanks in advance for any advice

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:29 am
by v840
I think the dude is talking bollocks but are you able to just grind it back smooth and tell him that you had it done in a continuous bead?

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:24 am
by Guy
Give it a coat of sound deadner\floor liner stuff .

Its to ensure no exhaust leaks into the cab I would be guessing.

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:30 am
by v840
Does that mean it's illegal to drive with the rubber bungs out of the floor? :D

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:38 pm
by Hybrid
v840 wrote:Does that mean it's illegal to drive with the rubber bungs out of the floor? :D
Yep :)

I thought you could buy a seam sealer that is basically like putty. You see it used in stock cars. Provided all your stitch welds overlap though I would have thought he was talking shite too.

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:07 pm
by casbro
They claimed that all repairs to the floor had to be paint and deadener clear for inspection..
BUT i am gonna cover it all and paint it and take it to sombody else ,this guy seems to be digging for money. :roll:

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 4:05 pm
by alien
if its leak free (which you can prove with a glass of water) i dont see how its any worse than a rubber bung in the floor... hell, th rubber can perish or pop out... no chance of that happening now is there? =)

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:07 pm
by dez82
I got my LJ80 roadworthy done about 6months ago, with no bungs in. They didn't say a thing

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 12:07 pm
by tna racing
if your going to weld the floor, just take time. And don't weld it too hot. use the dwell timer on a mig if needed

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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:24 pm
by lockdup
i got a rwc done with rubbers in about 6 months ago aswell. no questions asked

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:40 pm
by casbro
Finally got the rwc done today (by another dude) he took one look at the floor and said i'd done a great job! :roll: go figure!
I polished it all up and sprayed it , not an issue.
Just needed a front end allignment and to adjust the rear brakes (may be a bit sceized on the auto adjuster).
But all good and the other mob has been put on my no go list!

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:44 pm
by casbro
Yes TNA,
It is the go to go slow, and have a gas mig welder NICE WORK ;)
I'm using a $200 cheapy gasless from BUNDINGS, what a mess ,flux and crap everywhere!

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:03 pm
by zookieboi
lol continuous weld... sounds like hes stuffing you around. i had to do something similar for my sierra but i simply ground off the rust wiped fish oil over it, wiped off excess and the next day i fibreglassed strips over where it was needed. then i went over my whole footwells with underbody black, its also sound deadener, then just put my matts over that.

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:46 am
by tna racing
casbro wrote:Yes TNA,
It is the go to go slow, and have a gas mig welder NICE WORK ;)
I'm using a $200 cheapy gasless from BUNDINGS, what a mess ,flux and crap everywhere!
my welder we got for free lol, but is a full mig :)