Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am about to flush my brake fluid and need to need some hose to go from the nipple to the bottle. What ID diameter hose is needed?

Also, is using DOT4 OK when it only requires DOT3? Is there a problem with mixing them even though I'm going to flush the lines?

Use hose small enough to provide a tight seal on the nipple, plastic tubing is good, abot 3-4mm ID.

lump_a_charcoal wrote:Use hose small enough to provide a tight seal on the nipple, plastic tubing is good, abot 3-4mm ID.

What he said.

You should remove all of the old fluid from the reservoir before starting, and then as you bleed your system you should see a uniform color change at each corner (which means the old stuff is out of the system).

TheOtherLeft wrote:I am about to flush my brake fluid and need to need some hose to go from the nipple to the bottle. What ID diameter hose is needed?

Also, is using DOT4 OK when it only requires DOT3? Is there a problem with mixing them even though I'm going to flush the lines?

Which car? normally you should be fine, but if 80 series, i specifically know you should only use DOT 3.

+dj_hansen+ wrote:

TheOtherLeft wrote:I am about to flush my brake fluid and need to need some hose to go from the nipple to the bottle. What ID diameter hose is needed?

Also, is using DOT4 OK when it only requires DOT3? Is there a problem with mixing them even though I'm going to flush the lines?

Which car? normally you should be fine, but if 80 series, i specifically know you should only use DOT 3.

It's for Suzuki GV. It states SAE J1703 or DOT 3 in the manual.

+dj_hansen+ wrote:

TheOtherLeft wrote:I am about to flush my brake fluid and need to need some hose to go from the nipple to the bottle. What ID diameter hose is needed?

Also, is using DOT4 OK when it only requires DOT3? Is there a problem with mixing them even though I'm going to flush the lines?

Which car? normally you should be fine, but if 80 series, i specifically know you should only use DOT 3.

why is that???

+dj_hansen+ wrote:Which car? normally you should be fine, but if 80 series, i specifically know you should only use DOT 3.

I don't think that's right is it? Dot 4 is simply a better spec than dot 3 - higher boiling point, less hygroscopic, but still a polyethylene glycol-based brake fluid and therefore interchangeable?

The rule would be - don't use dot 5 if dot 3 or 4 is specified.

Please explain if I've got that wrong as I'd like to correct myself!

chimpboy wrote:

+dj_hansen+ wrote:Which car? normally you should be fine, but if 80 series, i specifically know you should only use DOT 3.

I don't think that's right is it? Dot 4 is simply a better spec than dot 3 - higher boiling point, less hygroscopic, but still a polyethylene glycol-based brake fluid and therefore interchangeable?

The rule would be - don't use dot 5 if dot 3 or 4 is specified.

Please explain if I've got that wrong as I'd like to correct myself!

No quick scientific reasoning, as per discussion several times on LCOOL, toyota specifies and recommends DOT3, esp in newer models still under warranty (obviously 10x, 200, 120 series) any brake problems under warranty; if they find DOT4 in the system will void the claim.

This was also on lcool:



The only real 'reasoning' apart from toyota says so is the amount of swelling agents between the 2 (4 having a higher amount).

For interests sake, toyota dot 3, and castrol dot 3 (i have found it at repco and supercheap) are the same price (give or take $1 at retail price) in the 500ml bottles.

Fascinating!

Clearly Toyota just can't get anything right

chimpboy wrote:Fascinating!

Clearly Toyota just can't get anything right

*tongue in cheek*

Coming from a man who drives cars pertaining to a fine english breed?

The oil leaks are factory to stop rust arent they?