Disc Brake Sierra

Post by **LIV24B** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:53 am

hey just wanting to fit disc brakes to the rear of my zook.
just wondering about this brake proportioning value.
Why is it needed and where i can pick one up from?
Is there anything else i will need to do.

Thanks

Is it something that is needed or can i just link up the brake lines and it will work fine?

Post by **casbro** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:06 am

READ : proportioning vale modifications are illegal in Australia.

Don't let that stop you, have a look in the sierra bible

Post by **LIV24B** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:15 pm

So the brakes and everything will just bolt straight on?
No modifications to the brakes at all?

Post by **joeblow** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:39 pm

you have mounts etc?

Post by **Spike_Sierra** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 2:19 pm

ive got rear discs on mine. I bought the kit from www.lowrangeoffroad.com including the proportioning valve.
You need the valve because drum brakes usually take more fluid to work than discs, therefore are proportioned that way from standard. So if you put discs on the rears will get fed alot more than the front, locking them first, very dangerous in the wet.

I used standard sierra rotors, pads, and calipers. You will need the flexy lines for the rear as well as new hard lines made up/ bought from lowrange.

Post by **31zook** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:06 pm

casbro wrote:READ : proportioning vale modifications are illegal in Australia.
Don't let that stop you, have a look in the sierra bible

Dont know a whole heap about brakes and legalities, but my mate has an engineered zook with disk rears? Is it just an engineering issue?

Josh

Post by **nicbeer** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:15 pm

31zook wrote:
casbro wrote:READ : proportioning vale modifications are illegal in Australia.
Don't let that stop you, have a look in the sierra bible
Dont know a whole heap about brakes and legalities, but my mate has an engineered zook with disk rears? Is it just an engineering issue?

Josh

As far as i know as long as the valve is locked off from movement and also adjustments when driving then it is legal.

dependant on state etc

Post by **tanshi** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:24 pm

Im pretty sure you can do it in QLD as long as it isnt set up so you can adjust it on the run. Stops hoons from using them to setup dodgy line locks on their front brakes

Post by **Gwagensteve** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:00 pm

That is also my understanding. So long as it is not inadvertantly adjustable, they can be legal.

Steve.

Post by **31zook** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 11:33 am

tanshi wrote:Im pretty sure you can do it in QLD as long as it isnt set up so you can adjust it on the run. Stops hoons from using them to setup dodgy line locks on their front brakes

I would of just fitted valves in the line somewhere

Thanks i might look into it. what do people do about hand brakes. I heard that import after market one suck, but a old 1L tc drum mounts onto a 1.3L and works fine

Josh

Post by **joeblow** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 12:07 pm

or a disc brake caliper.

Post by **ScrawnC** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 1:28 pm

I found your pet spider Joe

Post by **31zook** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 1:59 pm

Joeblow: what is your caliper off can i please have some specs on your setup... And i never new that there was disk hand brakes... ok ill get out from under my rock

Josh

Post by **lay80n** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 2:14 pm

N13 pulsar calipers

Layto....

Post by **joeblow** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 2:42 pm

31zook wrote:Joeblow: what is your caliper off can i please have some specs on your setup... And i never new that there was disk hand brakes... ok ill get out from under my rock

Josh

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... c&start=15

Post by **PJ.zook** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 9:09 am

Hey joe did you get parkbrake cable made up custom? Im running old 323 calipers on the rear of mine and need to get around to fitting up the parkbrake on em, sick of parking in gear.

Post by **islandvitara** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 9:58 am

hmmm..interesting, i would like to know this too

Post by **LIV24B** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 2:43 pm

spike sierra, just wondering why i need both hard lines and the front lines?
cant i just run the hard lines that link to the lines that bolt on the back of the caliper? do the same as the front with welding a holding tab, the it joins to the hard line?

Post by **Spike_Sierra** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 1:04 am

just speaking in terms of my set up.
The standard sierra calipers need a banjo end so you need the soft line. And in my LWB, it had WT style rear drums where the fluid would run into the RHS cylinder and then back out and over to the left, so that had to be ditched in favour of 1 T-piece and lines running off that.

Post by **LIV24B** » Mon May 04, 2009 6:12 pm

Hey
Everyone just wondering is this normal for the zooks brakes.
I have installed the disc brakes on the rear of my zook. i havent got a proportion value yet (on its way) an i decieded to put everything together and see how it goes.
My brake felt really lite pushed all the way through, will the value change all this?
other then that it still stops really well, i thought it would be worse.

cheers everyone

Post by **Santos** » Mon May 04, 2009 6:59 pm

has anyone ever tried adapting the suzuki gti proportioning valve?

wouldnt it be same thread blah blah as sierra gear?

Post by **VR Rodeo** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:03 pm

LIV24B wrote:Hey
Everyone just wondering is this normal for the zooks brakes.
I have installed the disc brakes on the rear of my zook. i havent got a proportion value yet (on its way) an i decieded to put everything together and see how it goes.
My brake felt really lite pushed all the way through, will the value change all this?
other then that it still stops really well, i thought it would be worse.

cheers everyone

Did you bleed it properly, sounds like an air leak or Master cylinder failure ?

Post by **nicbeer** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:09 pm

LIV24B wrote:Hey
Everyone just wondering is this normal for the zooks brakes.
I have installed the disc brakes on the rear of my zook. i havent got a proportion value yet (on its way) an i decieded to put everything together and see how it goes.
My brake felt really lite pushed all the way through, will the value change all this?
other then that it still stops really well, i thought it would be worse.

cheers everyone

If it is anything like mine when its working i could stop on a 10c piece from 60 and the rears are locking first.

Post by **LIV24B** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:32 pm

Yeah there was bit of air in there.
thanks
yeah stops really well n u can feel the back lock first.
master cylinder hard to change?
when should it be changed

Post by **LIV24B** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:33 pm

there was bit of air.
thanks
how often should the master cylinder be changed?
stops pretty good

Post by **VR Rodeo** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:43 pm

LIV24B wrote:Yeah there was bit of air in there.
thanks
yeah stops really well n u can feel the back lock first.
master cylinder hard to change?
when should it be changed

Master cylinder simply unbolts from everything ( 2 brakelines and 2 bolts at the back ), just make sure you bleed it before you reconnect up the brakelines. Should only need changing if you can see it leaking, or you are loosing fluid but cant see any other leaks, or your pedal goes to the floor still even after several attempts to bleed the brakelines.

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