living with 24v
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 1:38 am
Looking at 24v cruiser...how hard they are to mod?Get parts for etc?Run spotlights?Speakers?Fridge?Thanks
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Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 7:08 am
Dont know how hard they are to mod or how much spares are, but living with 24v would be a little harder than 12v. You can get 24v globes for youre spotlights, speakers dont run off 12 or 24 but the headunit that drives them mainly run off 12v, fridges are also mostly 12v. Best thing to do if you want to stick with 24v is to buy a big converter.
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:46 am
All lights are available in 24v, winches come in 24v, all recent Engels and Waeco fridges will run on 24v.
The only drama is your radio, and a cheap 24->12 inverter from Jaycar will fix that.
Think of the positives, 24v wiring can be thinner as it will draw less amps.
The only drama is your radio, and a cheap 24->12 inverter from Jaycar will fix that.
Think of the positives, 24v wiring can be thinner as it will draw less amps.
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:23 am
For spotties you can just use a pair of 12V lamps in series. This is very commonly done. The only downside is that if one blows, they both go dark. But that is not really hard to deal with.
As noted winches and fridges are readily available in 24V, and second hand stuff will often actually cost less.
This is one of those things where you can make lemonade out of a lemon, as it were.
If you have some really heavy draw 12V items you can always mount a second alternator and have an independent 12V system.
As noted winches and fridges are readily available in 24V, and second hand stuff will often actually cost less.
This is one of those things where you can make lemonade out of a lemon, as it were.
If you have some really heavy draw 12V items you can always mount a second alternator and have an independent 12V system.
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 2:46 pm
What about towing caravan/trailers that are designed for 12V.
Changing bulbs in the taillights/indicators is easy enough though.
Changing bulbs in the taillights/indicators is easy enough though.
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 5:00 pm
you can get one of these for the trailer, as i have done with my safari.
http://www.redarc.com.au/trailer_lighting_reducers.htm
and it's not wise to run 2 12v spotties in series if they are metal framed/mounts.
http://www.redarc.com.au/trailer_lighting_reducers.htm
and it's not wise to run 2 12v spotties in series if they are metal framed/mounts.
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 5:38 pm
lol good point. Yes, they need to have distinct wires.ausoops wrote:it's not wise to run 2 12v spotties in series if they are metal framed/mounts.
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 7:13 pm
think of all the exciting goodies you can pick up from truck wreckers! accesories where cheaper from truck wreckers for my old patrol than from car wreckers for my surf.
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 9:17 pm
sounds like someone learnt from experience?ausoops wrote:
and it's not wise to run 2 12v spotties in series if they are metal framed/mounts.
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 9:44 pm
If you're worried about one particular trailer which must work with 12V & 24V I believe you can buy ADR approved LED lights that will work with both.lukiss99 wrote:What about towing caravan/trailers that are designed for 12V.
Changing bulbs in the taillights/indicators is easy enough though.
Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 4:17 pm
yeah, a non-sober afternoon of laziness to hook up reversing lights, 'why does the fuse keep blowing?' a moment of thought... "oh thats why"Shadow wrote:sounds like someone learnt from experience?ausoops wrote:
and it's not wise to run 2 12v spotties in series if they are metal framed/mounts.