Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hi guys just wondering wat would have to be upgraded for a 4 inch lift and also a 5 inch lift if there is any difference??

also i will be putting a ute cab on this so should i wate till i have put the ute cab on it then get the lift kit because i dont want the springs to be stiff on a ute as the weight would differ from a ute to a wagon.

any help would be greatly appreciated

cheers
jim

Mate you should put drop radius arms and adjustable panhards,upper and lower control arms,longer brake lines,brake proportioning valve mod and extend your sway bar pins .

Depends on what sort of coin you want to spend ?? You could just do upper adjustable arms in the rear. will need adjustable panherds front and rear and also extended brake lines.in the front you can go castor corection plates on the front instead of changing arms or drop boxes a little more $$ than plates but worth it. And extended swaybar pins. Thats all you really need but remember your original gear is not real strong so if you are going hard. You will need lower arms aswell in the rear. if you only go three inch you should only need to change bushes. As soon as you go to 4 inch and above it starts to cost a lot more $$$

No real difference between 4 inch and 5 inch lift in what you need to change

You can go all out too and go superflex arms from superior (recommend)

Shane from suspension stuff will be able to help you out !! good prices, quality gear and free shipping to your door

https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/

thanx for all ur help guys greatly appreciated

my last question is am i best off waiting till i have converted it from wagon to ute because of the weight difference???

cheers
jim

just done a few in the last 2 weeks, we used ironman kit. 4inch h/d springs and foam cell shocks, with h/d adjustable panhard rods in both.

they drive perfect, love the rough stuff, have plenty of movement. we didnt use any castor corection bushes, no drop boxes or any of that. seems to work perfect without changing all that stuff!

ADAM 26 wrote:just done a few in the last 2 weeks, we used ironman kit. 4inch h/d springs and foam cell shocks, with h/d adjustable panhard rods in both.

they drive perfect, love the rough stuff, have plenty of movement. we didnt use any castor corection bushes, no drop boxes or any of that. seems to work perfect without changing all that stuff!

I would love to drive one of these kits with no caster correction, you really do not know what a nice driving nissan should feel like and you do not know what you are posting , dont post rubbish to guys who want to know how to set their truck up properly !
what about coil retainers, drop out cones, brake proportioning bracket, CASTER CORRECTION , adjustable drag link, damper, sway bar extensions/disconnects, upper adjustable control arms , brake lines, these are all items that should be done to have a safe and proper driving truck.

Yeah drives fine until it wears in a bit and he hits a bump at 100 and the car shakes him off the road and he crash's.

I would love to drive one of these kits with no caster correction, you really do not know what a nice driving nissan should feel like and you do not know what you are posting , dont post rubbish to guys who want to know how to set their truck up properly !

Totally agree !!! fair dinkum as pointed out listen to the people who know what they are talking about. Either ring superior or Shane from suspension stuff who supplies superiors gear and they can advise you on what coils etc for the weight you need even with the change of your body.

I just put in my gu a 4 inch lift in my gu using dobson coils, boss adjustable shocks,superior spring retainers,drop out cones, rear adjustable upper arms, lower control arms , super flex arms, adjustable drag link front and rear adjustable panhards, rear swaybar disconects and a efs extreme dampener. And i have to tell you this is a magic combination. will post pics when i work out how to.

At the end of the day you get what you pay for !!!!!!!!!!!!

cheers

*cruiser* wrote: I just put in my gu a 4 inch lift in my gu using dobson coils, boss adjustable shocks,superior spring retainers,drop out cones, rear adjustable upper arms, lower control arms , super flex arms, adjustable drag link front and rear adjustable panhards, rear swaybar disconects and a efs extreme dampener. And i have to tell you this is a magic combination. will post pics when i work out how to.

At the end of the day you get what you pay for !!!!!!!!!!!!

cheers

Need some flex shots.......PLEASE!

What was the total damage if you don't mind? Looking to do the same to mine. Only exception would be wanting A-frame rear.

Cheers, Dano.

SuperiorEngineering wrote:

ADAM 26 wrote:just done a few in the last 2 weeks, we used ironman kit. 4inch h/d springs and foam cell shocks, with h/d adjustable panhard rods in both.

they drive perfect, love the rough stuff, have plenty of movement. we didnt use any castor corection bushes, no drop boxes or any of that. seems to work perfect without changing all that stuff!

I would love to drive one of these kits with no caster correction, you really do not know what a nice driving nissan should feel like and you do not know what you are posting , dont post rubbish to guys who want to know how to set their truck up properly !
what about coil retainers, drop out cones, brake proportioning bracket, CASTER CORRECTION , adjustable drag link, damper, sway bar extensions/disconnects, upper adjustable control arms , brake lines, these are all items that should be done to have a safe and proper driving truck.

no need to have a dig at me. im just posting up what we found worked on our gq`s! why would i post up something that doesnt work?? im happy for you to take either of the nissans i lifted for a spin.

you blokes are probly right that once they wear in it might get the shakes up, but at the moment its fine.

i actually took another gq(not ours) for a test drive, it had a 6 inch lift with all the castor correction and so on fitted and it got the shakes at 80k`s. it was very unsafe!

Depends, there are castor corrections and then there is CASTOR CORRETIONS. Castor plates and castor bush's are cheap low budget crap. Then corrections arms. And then drop box's . Depending on how much 4x4ing you do as to running arms or drop box's as the drop box's you lose a bit of ground clearance but its way better on the road.

There is a whole series of things you need to do to make sure it doesnt get the shakes. You need to take it to a nissan guru like mick. Ive even found after it has the shakes its never the same and it war my upper panhard rod chassi holes out of round which can only be fixed by welding a new plate with a new hole over it.

I have the Snake Racing Drop arms and i love them as opposed to Plates

Wouldn't use boxes cause of the clearance issues but they would be a good compromise if you don't want to buy arms

You'd be surprised with the drop boxes. They give you inherently more flex than the drop arms and I haven't hung up on them yet also I did some B-grade tracks. Most importantly, they bring your front diff setup back to factory. I had the wobbles with the caster plates for years and it drives like a dream on the road. A friend of mine went from caster plates to drop arms on a 5" lift and still has problems.

MyGQ wrote:
Wouldn't use boxes cause of the clearance issues but they would be a good compromise if you don't want to buy arms

What clearance issues???

twodiffs wrote:

MyGQ wrote:
Wouldn't use boxes cause of the clearance issues but they would be a good compromise if you don't want to buy arms

What clearance issues???

x2

Mine scrape, but I'm yet to get stuck because of them. I will get hung up on the diffs on tracks long before the drop boxes become an issue.

I guess the stock arm is more prone to damage with drop boxes as apposed to drop arms, but I already have a standard flex arm, so just need to replace the other side now and I'll be happy

I have driven tracks with a mate in identically set up trucks, mine with drop boxes, his with drop arms, and mine climbs ledges better for some reason, even with swapping drivers. Not sure if its the drop boxes making the difference?

Yes it is because of the drop box's. The angle from your wheel centre to mounting point is less and pointing towards the central weight of your truck. Thats why mick came up with the long arm kits for the rear. The same thing.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164 ... hlight=arm

Need some flex shots.......PLEASE!

What was the total damage if you don't mind? Looking to do the same to mine. Only exception would be wanting A-frame rear.

Cheers, Dano.[/quote]


Hi Dano,

Total damage was around about $4300 for all the gear !! Will get some shots soon, I still have to modify the front crossmember as the front shaft is touching when it is flexed right up !! Have turned the tailshaft around and it still comes very close, probably a bees dick in it. Will test it out properly at LMP labour day weekend

Cheers
Shane

KIWI wrote:

twodiffs wrote:

MyGQ wrote:
Wouldn't use boxes cause of the clearance issues but they would be a good compromise if you don't want to buy arms

What clearance issues???

x2

Mine scrape, but I'm yet to get stuck because of them. I will get hung up on the diffs on tracks long before the drop boxes become an issue.

I guess the stock arm is more prone to damage with drop boxes as apposed to drop arms, but I already have a standard flex arm, so just need to replace the other side now and I'll be happy

I have driven tracks with a mate in identically set up trucks, mine with drop boxes, his with drop arms, and mine climbs ledges better for some reason, even with swapping drivers. Not sure if its the drop boxes making the difference?

No clearance issues maybe because you both have SWBs

GASDRX wrote:[
No clearance issues maybe because you both have SWBs

I've run them on a LWB too, I take it all those who say they are no good due to poor clearance are speaking from actual experience with them?
Problem is, everyone I have spoken to about clearance have never tried them, and I'm yet to hear from someone that has removed them due to getting hung up on them.

I'm not saying they are the best mod for all, but for the price I have no problems with them, but if people find in certain situations they are no good, it would be nice to hear about it.
I'm not having a go at anyone, just nice to hear of some these situations where people have run into trouble with them, rather than the normal "they are no good for clearance"

KIWI wrote:

GASDRX wrote:[
No clearance issues maybe because you both have SWBs ;)

I've run them on a LWB too, I take it all those who say they are no good due to poor clearance are speaking from actual experience with them?
Problem is, everyone I have spoken to about clearance have never tried them, and I'm yet to hear from someone that has removed them due to getting hung up on them.

I'm not saying they are the best mod for all, but for the price I have no problems with them, but if people find in certain situations they are no good, it would be nice to hear about it.
I'm not having a go at anyone, just nice to hear of some these situations where people have run into trouble with them, rather than the normal "they are no good for clearance"

I have had 4" boxes, 7 " boxes and a bolt in 5 link. Yes they scrape going forward but do get hung up in reverse. Anyone that has not been hung up on a rock or log with boxes is either a wincher or soft.

As far as drop arms flexing less than boxes, I can't see it. The differece between drop arms n boxes would be the same as standard and portals, both offset the chassis end of radius arm to tyre by a similar amount. I have never heared of someone refusing to use portals because their truck will climb better with normal diffs. The arc the arm swings in will be different but the tyres should absorb most of it.

In my opinion, drop boxes are the best caster correction for the money, drop arms are better but more costly. The price difference between caster plates, caster bushes and drop boxes is not that much in the total cost of lifting the truck.

Remember there is a difference between a social/soft comp setup and a trophy truck.

nastytroll wrote: I have had 4" boxes, 7 " boxes and a bolt in 5 link. Yes they scrape going forward but do get hung up in reverse. Anyone that has not been hung up on a rock or log with boxes is either a wincher or soft.

Thats more the info I was hoping for, and agree, they do get hung up reversing, I've just never been hung up on them to the point I couldn't drive free and attempt from another angle, but have yet to want to change them for drop arms due to clearance issues

There are far too many half arsed kits out there sold by half arsed people. Do it right the first time or stay off the road and tracks.
I have seen my share of lifts gone wrong and it is not safe or good value in the long run.
If you can't afford to lift you rig properly then don't.

[/img]

Will get some better pics as had no bump stops in rear when these pics were taken and the rear wheel was getting to much up travel. Put them in and set everything up over easter and had no camera it is now getting some awsome flex, these pics dont do it justice. Will post more when i can get some decent pics.[/img]