Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all,

I have just replaced my std drag link with a drop drag link cause my old one was stuffed and a dropped one in anticipation of my ruf.

anyway with the current sagged rhs suspension the drag link is now hitting the u bolts. the std one didnt. I thought the whole point of droped links was to make sure this didnt happen.

Now I know the suspension is sagged and thus bringing the draglink closer to the suspension, but this simply simulates the car being flexed up a little off road. under full compression i think it would jam the steering.

So couple of things, what can be done if anything to fix it. currently the bit which is fouling is the clamp which runs around the end of the drag link as seen below.

so a) could this clamp be replaced by a good stainless ring clamp which is lower profile? as all it has to do is clamp the thread a little.

b) I could cut the lip off the front half of my bump stop, so the bump stop is then only held in place by the rear lip, so it would drop my u bolt 5mm lower.

c) some gods suggestion which you can list below

d) can the end be twisted alowing the drag link to twist so it goes around the u bolt?

e) all of the above.

Ps I tried to do my ruf swap yesterday and couldn't get my damn torque rod off so had to put the old shit back in

What U bolts are u using
If you use aftermarket forged U bolts the top section of the U bolt is made flatter to allow clearance for the drag link

redv8lux wrote:What U bolts are u using
If you use aftermarket forged U bolts the top section of the U bolt is made flatter to allow clearance for the drag link

X2 on that i used them one on mine...was still hitting but not as bad

from what i have seen most drop draglinks are made to suit a lux with quite a bit of lift and if they are fitted to one that is fairly low i have seen the j arm snaped when flexed due to bind up

stock 4runner wrote:from what i have seen most drop draglinks are made to suit a lux with quite a bit of lift and if they are fitted to one that is fairly low i have seen the j arm snaped when flexed due to bind up

makes sence, but whats the point of a product which saves contact when the wheel is flexed down, but increases bind when flexed up. lift isnt lift when the wheel is tucked into the guard.

As to the other replys on the flat top u bolt. I do remember someone mentiong once about a different u bolt. is it just a few mm taken off. like a grinder would do or is it made flatter and wider to maintain strength, as my u bolt looks the same as all the others.

I found a high compression hose clamp, could i remove the chunky clamp which is getting stuck on the u bolt with this, so that even if it contacts the edge is thin enough to ensure it cant bind up?

http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/13380

thehanko wrote: As to the other replys on the flat top u bolt. I do remember someone mentiong once about a different u bolt. is it just a few mm taken off. like a grinder would do or is it made flatter and wider to maintain strength, as my u bolt looks the same as all the others.

It has a squashed shape to it. I probably would not grind it, you would hate to have them fail. I doubt the flat ones are expensive.

On mine I just shaved the clamp down a bit to get the clearance i needed. I have flat U bolts though.

you can fix it by taking the ball out and put it on the top not on the bottom and that stops the arm hitting you can buy the new balls from TJM at narrellan i think it was about $20

The flat u bolt should be about 20 bucks. I had a drop drag and flat ubolt on mine and the are more to suit lift the only way to stop you steering fowling on the springs is X over or hi steer.

coopster wrote:you can fix it by taking the ball out and put it on the top not on the bottom and that stops the arm hitting you can buy the new balls from TJM at narrellan i think it was about $20

Really? no other issues with this? Ill look at the truck a bit later and visualise it.

I twisted the drag link slightly clockwise when standing at the front so it would just clear the bolt - Thought I will go and pick up a new flat one as well.

Then up at zig zag yesterday the damn drag link dented my shock I bought the damn thing to reduce my problems not compound them!

coopster wrote:you can fix it by taking the ball out and put it on the top not on the bottom and that stops the arm hitting you can buy the new balls from TJM at narrellan i think it was about $20

Works well if the lift is the main issue. But eventually the ball joint still binds and either destroys the joint or snaps off the J-Arm. Unfortunately, the std hilux steering is Grimace and the only "fix" is go crossover.....

As someone else said, the dropped draglinks are really designed for trucks with a large lift - not for something suspension travel.

beebee wrote:

coopster wrote:you can fix it by taking the ball out and put it on the top not on the bottom and that stops the arm hitting you can buy the new balls from TJM at narrellan i think it was about $20

Works well if the lift is the main issue. But eventually the ball joint still binds and either destroys the joint or snaps off the J-Arm. Unfortunately, the std hilux steering is . and the only "fix" is go crossover.....

As someone else said, the dropped draglinks are really designed for trucks with a large lift - not for something suspension travel.

damn it! i really cant be farked changing to crossover. but looks like time to use the search button and learn more about it.

sigh!

just give both a little touch up with the grinder, i did that to mine, its sweet no probs somtimes it touches a little. I think i'm going to go the flipped ball J arm and use a straight draglink before i go crossover yet.