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TRE's

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 9:14 am
by Wooders
I'm making a custom Panhard rod for my TJ and want to beef up the stock TieRodEnd. Also I want the panhard to be adjustable - so ideally the TRE would have a solid straight thread.
So I'm after any recommendations of types/sizes etc to use.....Also where I could source would be awesome too....

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:09 pm
by dumbdunce
surely someone out there manufactures adjustable harcore panhards for heeps?

better off asking in the jeep forum?

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:35 pm
by Wooders
Yeah if I wanna pay $500 a pop.....
Also importing from the US isn't an option due to LHD.....
So I'm talking to a local shop to get one made, but need to find suitable TRE's.
Forexample as I understand the 80 series TRE are pretty beefy and I think are a possible contender...but I'm wondering if anyone happens to know what else is available/suitable?
Don't need to be jeep specific :roll:

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:41 pm
by planb
Dave call 3rds

he was building a set for a black tj with long arm just the other week

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:48 pm
by Wooders
Yup 3rds is whom I've been speaking to & whom would make it..... :D

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:51 pm
by dumbdunce
why do you need tierod ends on a panhard? usually just a rubber/urethane bush is sufficient unless there is a lot of rotation involved in the axle articulation - in which case a TRE might not supply enough twist - and they break pretty easily when bound up.

otherwise the GU series 3 uses a rose joint at the axle end, would be a good starting point. I wouldn't use tierod ends at all for a panhard rod, there is potentially a lot more force involved and I reckon they'd flog pretty quick.

maybe start with an adjustable GU or 80 series panhard and cut it to a suitable length for the jeep?

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:58 pm
by Wooders
The stock TJ setup is a TRE @ the chassis end & rubber bush @ axle end.

If I convert to a bush at either end I need to start frigging about with fabbing up a new bracket to accomodate it.
I was thinking of getting a nice beefy TRE and simple boring the taper out to suit.
As I said ideally the TRE would have a beefy straight thread secton which would allow any fine tuning adjustment & then get 3rds to makeup & press the remaining rod/bush (lower) section.....

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 1:01 pm
by Wooders
Ops I should add that the US kits (asside from not haveing the correct bends to clear the pumpkin) use an upper heim style of joint. - This is bolted to the stock bracket which is straight drilled....But my concern with this is the extra potential leverage as both sides of the joint are not supported....Plus othose joints can get a bit exy.....(yeah I'm a cheapskate)

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2004 1:03 pm
by Wendle
nissan GQ ones are 2mm bigger than 80 series and are $55 from nissan. 22x1.5 metric fine thread- you can get a jam nut for them from anywhere.

Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 9:00 am
by Wooders
Ledgend Wendle - that was the sorta info I want :D

Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 9:15 am
by Wendle
Wooders wrote:Ledgend Wendle - that was the sorta info I want :D


if you want a stupidly strong option, there is another nissan rod end that is female threaded (ie threads over the top of your tube) 30x1.5. but they are $110 and are quite bulky, haven't looked at a jeep for a while, but I think i remember you are pretty tight between the panhard and the idler arm??

you could get a heim just as strong, or stronger, for about $40, but you'd probably be replacing it every 12 months or so, and you'd probably want to dick around with the mount to make it double shear..

Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 11:30 am
by Wooders
I haven't had a stock fail on me yet - so I don't see a need to gio silly strong - I'm more concerned about getting my axle correctly centred again :oops:
If I was going heim joint I would definately go double sheer mount - but because I'm too lazy to dick about with it I think TRE is the way to go ;)

Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2004 9:10 am
by big red
Wendle wrote:
Wooders wrote:Ledgend Wendle - that was the sorta info I want :D


if you want a stupidly strong option, there is another nissan rod end that is female threaded (ie threads over the top of your tube) 30x1.5. but they are $110 and are quite bulky, haven't looked at a jeep for a while, but I think i remember you are pretty tight between the panhard and the idler arm??

you could get a heim just as strong, or stronger, for about $40, but you'd probably be replacing it every 12 months or so, and you'd probably want to dick around with the mount to make it double shear..




thats the one off the cab chassis isn't it ??

Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2004 9:27 am
by Wendle
yep. GQ & GU cab/chassis.. I think all the new GU wagons use them too. our work 3.0 wagon has them..

Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 6:07 pm
by Cheezy4x4
We have been making drop panhard mounts for Jeeps to help stop bumpsteer, also converts from tie rod to eye end. It also comes with a new H/D panhard that uses standard Nissan panhard bushes.

Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:10 pm
by Wooders
Prevent bumpsteer?
I'm guessing this is used with TJ's that foolishly fit the dropped pitman supplied with many lifts?
I Haven't dropped my Pitman arm and don't really want to - I really just want a longer (& adjustable) panhard....besides longer term plans would negate too much time & hassle ;)

Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:17 pm
by big red
Wendle wrote:yep. GQ & GU cab/chassis.. I think all the new GU wagons use them too. our work 3.0 wagon has them..


my 1999 gu ute has the small tie rod ends :cry:
the buggers bend real easy as well :cry: