Outer Limits 4x4 Board

as i dont want to go crazy with an 1uz yet, what are some simple, easy, light on the wallet upgrades i can do to the 3RZ motor. mine is completly stock and want to have abit of fun and get some power out of it.

i just went over 180,000km's if it helps for its age of engine.

i just did the 3rz conversion and got a 2 /14 in exhaust with a straight through muffler and a hotdog for $330. i have no idea what the stock exhaust is like, but it sounds really good for a 4 banger and revs out no worries. i guess some thing like this would be ideal.

out of the people that have this engine no one has any upgrades?

I've used this engine for a conversion into a 4runner, its got a 2.5in exhaust, gas research carby running dual fuel, and a Haltech Interceptor ECU. Had it all tuned a week ago, 90rwkw on both petrol and gas.

The only 'basic' mods you can do to any engine involve intake and exhausting of air.

By getting more cool air to the intake it will help with combustion. Try and make the intake the least restrictive as possible.

And then exhaust, the more freely it flows the better.

Anything else would be a waste of time, even $1000 for a piggy back tune will only yield a handful of kw gain on a basic 4 banger.

smaddock wrote:I've used this engine for a conversion into a 4runner, its got a 2.5in exhaust, gas research carby running dual fuel, and a Haltech Interceptor ECU. Had it all tuned a week ago, 90rwkw on both petrol and gas.

Sounds like the Haltech and the custom tune was worth it! My stock 3RZ (with exhaust and intake mods) with the standard computer got 99hp on the dyno.

TURBO

its the only way for major increase

3rz's love air being shoved in them

they are becoming a bit of a benchmark engine for doing this

if i was to turbo, what sort of set up turbo would i be looking at and also what price range are talking about here to do turbo set up???

sorry im only young and still learning about cars and engines

There's no such thing as 'cheap' forced induction if you do it properly.

If you did though, do it properly (good components, good fuel system and management) you should end up with a 4b as quick as if it had a stock 1UZ.

Forced induction on a 1UZ though, well that's a whole new ballgame

-Nemesis- wrote:There's no such thing as 'cheap' forced induction if you do it properly.

If you did though, do it properly (good components, good fuel system and management) you should end up with a 4b as quick as if it had a stock 1UZ.

Forced induction on a 1UZ though, well that's a whole new ballgame

I love doing conversions and as good as a 1uz is they are good

a 3rz turbo would be a lot easier a lot less fab work moving of hand brakes, custom mounts,different gearboxes, bell housings etc and less wiring only piggy back aftermarket required not full rewire

A 1uz is by no means a small under taking

all that would be required is a bolt on turbo kit
an after market ecu
and a front mount
to get started with boost at a sensible level
then later injectors could be upgraded and head work and piston work if wanted (cause we always want more:twisted:)

now a 1uz turbo would be cool but where would they they go?
not much room left in a lux when you put one of those big mama's in there plus an intercooler etc

I run a 2jz twin turbo in my lux now they have a more performance orientated design than either the 1uz or 3rz wide valve angle head, true twin belt driven double over head cams, coil pack ignition, square bore stroke ratio and can handle 1000 hp but not cheap or easy

that is a big engine trust me and is harder than a 1uz due to the length of the thing . i have done both and 1uz is easier
a 3rz turbo i could do in a weekend with the kit ready to go.
http://www.lceperformance.com/3RZ-Turbo ... 071019.htm
quite quick and simple you would need a budget of at least 4500 for either conversion depending on how much you can do your self

the 1uz is a cheap buy on it own but to put a manual behind it R150 plus custom bell housing you are looking at big bucks about the same as the engine if not more
A 3rz would not need the gearbox upgraded straight away due to the way it delivers its power (more progressive)

it all depends on what you want one is not better than the other they are just different both end up with the end result of FAST TRUCK

also you need to check what is legal for you to drive and to do in your location
the freight costs for a turbo kit would be less than the cost for an engine gearbox belhousing freight cost .

beebee wrote:Sounds like the Haltech and the custom tune was worth it! My stock 3RZ (with exhaust and intake mods) with the standard computer got 99hp on the dyno.

I think I was expecting too much, I didn't think 90rwkw (~120 rwhp) was much, but now I know it is a marked improvement! I drives heaps better on both fuels now, heaps more torque from idle and revs up to 5000rpm easily (makes max power at 4750rpm).

Besides, the whole point of fitting the interceptor ecu is to allow future "mods" (hehe turbo manifold has been purchased... just need everything else ). Don't see turboing it costing much, will be doing it all myself except for intake piping... Will be aiming for another $2k all up, but will see.

Does the 3RZ only rev to 5000rpm?

-Nemesis- wrote:Does the 3RZ only rev to 5000rpm?

the limiter is set at around 6000 (tested company car )

they are not a high reving engine but built for torque(same as a 1uz is) being a relatively large 4 cyl with an fe head
wish they made a 3rzGE or even a 1UZ GE that would be nuts

look at the diference between an engine that came out with both heads as options for example 3s engine
3sfe 90kw at 5600 rpm
3sge 137kw at 7000rpm
these are for the same year model


or 4A
4AFE 75kw at 5800rpm
4AGE 103kw at 7200rpm


its a real shame

Whats the difference between an FE and GE head?

Has anyone modded their 3RZ heads for power gain?

As far as revving goes, yeah mine only made power to 4750 so no point revving it much past 5000. I haven't tested the rev limiter, mines not a company car

smaddock wrote:Whats the difference between an FE and GE head?

Has anyone modded their 3RZ heads for power gain?

As far as revving goes, yeah mine only made power to 4750 so no point revving it much past 5000. I haven't tested the rev limiter, mines not a company car

most GE;s were developed by yamaha
the angle of the valves,(allows better breathing)
the size of the valves,
the size and shape of the ports
the design of the inlet manifold
the camshaft profiles
the way the camshafts are driven
fe via scissor gears ,and or chain or belt
GE via sprocket direct from the timing belt(this allows more adjustability )
this is also because of the cam spacing
bottom ends of GE's have forged crank and rods on all models
fe's some not all

have a look at what the guys do in the states also a couple of drag cars in aus as well as far as head work
it is better to start with a better design in the first place if possible but it is not always the case

Yeah, in a nut shell Toyota's code F means economic, G means performance.

what about a sc14 supercharger , and then the ignition to suit ?? just a thought i had for mine sorry to high jack

seriouly DONT TOUCH IT.
just drive it.

83 lux wrote:seriouly DONT TOUCH IT.
just drive it.

thats what probly will end up doing and jus save more money for the swap for the 1uz-fe

question... why dont people use the 2uz-fe, 3uz-fe and 4uz-fe??
i'v only seen people use the older 1uz-fe

Because they're imported from Japan they are cheap, too cheap for what they are. They're a stronger engine than later generations, yet a used 2UZ will set you back the better half of $10k.

oh sh*t, well thats probly why there not used like the 1uz-fe.

its true what your saying, makes sense now

hixi126 wrote:what about a sc14 supercharger , and then the ignition to suit ?? just a thought i had for mine sorry to high jack

Been thinking the same thing or something slightly larger.

Would give nice good response too and be reasonably cheap to setup.

83 lux wrote:seriouly DONT TOUCH IT.
just drive it.

Why?

You could say the same about suspension, diffs, gearing etc....

Most 4WD's spend 90% of the time on road, why not make it go better and be more enjoyable?

-Nemesis- wrote:

83 lux wrote:seriouly DONT TOUCH IT.
just drive it.

Why?

You could say the same about suspension, diffs, gearing etc....

Most 4WD's spend 90% of the time on road, why not make it go better and be more enjoyable?

My spends about 95% of the time on my drive way.

Willy Hilux wrote:
My spends about 95% of the time on my drive way.

Come down here and wheel it then

Im in the process of building a turbo 3RZ now, I got a secondhand turbo kit for under a $1000 which included steampipe manifold, 31/2" mandrel exhaust and stainless dump, custom intake manifold, R32 T3 garrett turbo, surgetank, oil lines, etc

to turbo charge u require aftermarket management of some description and larger injectors as well as the standard ecu is useless for any type of boost and the stock injectors run out of puff at about 2psi. Other items required are an upgraded fuel system of sorts and rising rate fuel reg as well as intercooler.

The mild setup I am aiming for shud be good for 250rwhp easily as others have done, and that is keeping things safe. I have a spare motor which I am contimplating rebuilding as forged overtime to get sum real power out of down the track.

Once u start upping the boost above about 10psi u need to look into lowering compression and fitting forged rods as the factory rods do not handle the power and they will let go and ther is nothin left when they do let go. If u tune it to rev harder then standard limiter u r also pushing the envelope. 500+HP can be made from these engines quite easily, just have to do it the correct way.

W56 and G52 boxes will bolt straight to the 3RZ but if u r looking for sumthin stronger then if u source an 06 2TR-FE lux bellhousing u can run a R series box as I am doin. U will need a far heavier clutch pressure plate(custom) also as the standard one will fry as will 3RZ HD items.

keeping the turbo size small is important if u want boost off idle, I could of thrown a GT35R OR T3/T4 on and had higher flow and more power but it wud be laggy as hell, U will loose the 3RZ's low down torque to a degree when boosting as the turbo is a huge restriction in the intake when off boost but when it comes on u wanna hang on plus its not such an issue with crawler gears.

500hp is very easily achieved.. ive herd of close to 1000rwhp..

in comparing a turbo'd 3rz to a standard 1uz.. there is no comparison. a turbo'd 3rz would pretty well piss all over a uz on 6-7 pound.. and this sorta horsies is very do-able on standard bottom and top ends.. Ive done research and knowing a few ppl with these engines, there is no comparing this to a uz. Pretty much 10psi above is the rule on these to start looking at forgies from what ive herd.

Im going down the n/a track with mine i think, just due to being a lil more useable off road, plus mine is daily atm.. APPARENTLY doing the ports, skimming head and aftermarket ecu, then cams ect.. And also uprighting the engine, so there is no slant, and shortening the intake plannum up too. This is all found through research, just thought id throw all these lil things out and share some knowlege ive aquired. Cheers, Chris

There still quite useable offroad when turbo'd due to them being a large capacity square bore 4 banga. With the rite turbo u will have double the original torque more or less off idle. With crawler gears idle torque shud be more then adequate. They definately are in a different league to the 1UZ once turbo'd and will leave an N/A one in the dust for KW/NM figures at mild boost figures, throw sum snails or a blower on the 1UZ and thats a different story

Its the rods that are the biggest problem and a few blokes jsut replace these with forged items to keep it cheap, You dont really need 500+HP in a 4x4 anyhow and the turbo that u wud use for that figure wud be to large to give good low rev response.