Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guys,
I have just started looking at buying a patrol, and the GQ body shape seems to be what I am looking at.
Firstly, whats the difference between a GQ and an MQ?
Are there any 'common problems' I should look for?
Do they all have LSD standard?
What models have the sway bar disconnect?

Also, what size fuel tank do they have, and how many K's are people getting from a tank of petrol. (also how many k/s from a tank of gas)
I'd like to get one on gas, but need to know what I'm in for in the way of fuel costs first...
I usually work in km/L not L/100k

Thanks

Firstly, whats the difference between a GQ and an MQ?

Crap loads in the drivetrain, wider track, coil springs, 4.2lt engines, stronger garbox/transfer, the list goes on.

Bodywise the floorpan is completely different for the mechanical changes but the the upper half & door remain similar.

Are there any 'common problems' I should look for?

Mainly body stuff like door hinges, rust, cracks in the pillars, body mounts, seat mounts. The petty ones have a bit of a habit of cracking heads.

Do they all have LSD standard?

Not all, some of the early base models missed out.

What models have the sway bar disconnect?

Mainly the early ones, the option was discontinued in the early 90's (anyone can correct me if I am wrong on this one as I am not 100%).

Cant really help with mileage as mine is diesel, some of the people who own petty ones can help ypu there.

Tzi wrote:I usually work in km/L not L/100k

You'll find that 99% of people use L/100km, so to save confusion (on your behalf), just run with the standard gauge of measurement.

- The chassis rails are a tad wider on the GQ's
- MQ/MK were leaf sprung, GQ were leaf or leaf/coil (utes) and coil in the SWB and LWB models
- I have mainly seen the swaybar disconnects on up-spec models, although i have no doubt it was an option on most models
- Spec models are DX, RX, ST and TI (might have also been 3-4 limited edition models too)
- GQ's have a disc brake rear end as an option on base models and standard fair on mid-high spec models
- Diffs are much stronger in the GQ's.
- Petrol options in the GQ are the RB30, TB42 and TB42E (the latter being the better)
- Much more bolt on parts available for the GQ's.
- Get ALL of the front end bushes and bearings checked prior to buying as these can be expensive and a PITA to have to replace.

excellent info guys, thanks heaps...keep it coming

I presume the TB42 is carbie and TB42E is EFI?

Am I right in saying the EFI will have more power, and use less fuel, but the carbie is cheaper to convert to gas??

Km/L or L/100... either way works for me as long as you specify which your using

Yes a TB42e is the EFI engine. IMHO the TB42e is easier to convert to gas and responds better. There is a small KW and Torque increase in the TB42e.
A petrol only TB42e will get about 19-20l/100km highway. When you add LPG it gets about 20-22l/100km. There are many variables to the fuel economy, tyres - lift - bar work etc.

Yep, the TB42E are the pick of the bunch for converting to gas simply due to that fact that they are designed better (the intake tract). I wouldn't waste your time on a carby model unless you have the TB42E gear to bolt up to it.

The TB42E takes the gas well, and is easily set up to run dedicated gas and turbo (plently of threads on this too).

i think 1988 - 1990 had sway bar disconnects in cab (mine does) its an st model but my friends dx doesnt

You might want to be aware that you are also looking for a Ford Maverick as it's just a rebadged GQ. The models are XL and XLT with the XLT having electric windows, sunroof, etc, the XL being more a base model but still a higher spec than a pov pack Nissan-badged one.

Some GQ/Mavs have factory rear lockers, not a bad item if you find one with it.

If you are looking at earlier GQs watch out for drum brake rears (not desirable).

Another thing that varies is the diff ratio, with a lot of 3.9:1 diffs and a lot of 4.1:1 diffs. Both are okay but you'd probably lean toward the 4.1 if you are going for bigger tyres. Then again I had no problems with a TB42 and 33s with a 3.9 diff; it is more of an issue with diesels perhaps.

On gas I think 22 litres/100km is optimistic, at least once you've got bigger rubber under it.

Are you after a LWB or SWB?

I'm after a LWB. I currently have a daihatsu feroza which gets me everywhere I want to go, but its just not big enough any more.
I can either take my 2 big dogs, or 'stuff'... never both, so it has to be a LWB, even though I like 4wding with a short wheel base.

ok, so short of getting my hands dirty...how do I tell what diff ratio it has?
I'd like to have tyres somewhere around 33's or 35's so long as it doesnt alter the fuel usage too much.
(I'd say fuel economy, but I think economical is not the best word to describe a vehicle with a 4.2L motor )

Drub brakes = bad ...I'll be looking for discs for sure!

So... currently on the shopping list...
GQ or Mav XLT (coil springs)
4.2L EFI on LPG
swaybar disconnect
4.1:1 diffs
Disc brakes all round
and a factory locker if I'm really lucky

Did I miss anything?


EDIT.. something I didnt ask yet... manual or auto in regard to on road and off road? problems, benefits etc

Tzi wrote:I'm after a LWB. I currently have a daihatsu feroza which gets me everywhere I want to go, but its just not big enough any more.
I can either take my 2 big dogs, or 'stuff'... never both, so it has to be a LWB, even though I like 4wding with a short wheel base.

ok, so short of getting my hands dirty...how do I tell what diff ratio it has?
I'd like to have tyres somewhere around 33's or 35's so long as it doesnt alter the fuel usage too much.
(I'd say fuel economy, but I think economical is not the best word to describe a vehicle with a 4.2L motor )

Drub brakes = bad ...I'll be looking for discs for sure!

So... currently on the shopping list...
GQ or Mav XLT (coil springs)
4.2L EFI on LPG
swaybar disconnect
4.1:1 diffs
Disc brakes all round
and a factory locker if I'm really lucky

Did I miss anything?

That's the ideal but I would be willing to compromise on the EFI and/or diff ratio if a good unit came up at a good price.

I would look for sunroof and electric windows as well, in the bonus-but-not-necessary category.

Tzi wrote: So... currently on the shopping list...
GQ or Mav XLT (coil springs)
4.2L EFI on LPG
swaybar disconnect
4.1:1 diffs
Disc brakes all round
and a factory locker if I'm really lucky

Did I miss anything?


EDIT.. something I didnt ask yet... manual or auto in regard to on road and off road? problems, benefits etc

Mate I own a 88 Lwb ST GQ TB42 running 3.9 diffs, with the sway bar disconnect and have no trouble running my 33 swampers! It has factory 90 litre tank. Dont worry about the disconnect as its a waste of time and gets stuck and not worth having (imo) I dont run sway bars but its up to you. If you lift it, it's more of a pain to mod but not hard.
With all the rear seats out you can get put in a 2metre false floor in and have a bed as well as room for plenty of crap (as I've done) the rear cargo windows (Sliders) tend to rust out but if you have dogs you may want to keep them other wise the dx came out with solid glass which dont rust!
As for the motor I love it have had minimum trouble and the carby is good on even real bad angles/ hills. Easy to work on and heaps of room unlike the messy lookin efi's ( especially on gas)
Economy isnt great but have mates with the efi and very minimal difference, just a bit better power. Around 18/100 highway but dont expect much better than 22 around town/bush this is on 33 and I dont dawdle.

Oh if possible get the later model as the power steering box is much better and wont leak as bad
Good luck, Cheers Mick

Just a few more notes...

There are also 4.3 diff gears (4.2 diesels?? Mine has this ratio), and 4.6 which can be found in the RD28T diesel powered trucks.

My car also has drum brake rear, although i'd like to get a disc rear end, the only real issue i have with the drum brakes is having to adjust them every service.

I wouldn't bother with swaybar disconnects - i dont run any swaybars, and there are plenty of others that do the same with no problems.

Look out for rust, leaks and dodgy installations of sunroofs (i'm not a fan of them).

99% sure none of the Mav's will have drum brakes as they tended to be a more higher spec'd car than the Patrols.

I would go manual over auto as i like to be in 100% control of my gears - but thats just me. Manual transmissions also offer better fuel economy and power than auto's.

Different spec models also have either carpet or vinyl flooring. I have vinyl cause its easier to clean.

What do you plan on doing with this car anyway? Touring, weekend basher, comps, tow rig, daily driver??

coxy321 wrote:What do you plan on doing with this car anyway? Touring, weekend basher, comps, tow rig, daily driver??

Touring, weekend basher, tow rig, daily driver, and a business car. So it needs to be capable, but also presentable No cut guards, huge lift or pipe-winchbar


I was told today by a gas fitter that I would be better off buying a petrol, and then converting it. (I'm sure thats in his best interests tho)
He said I may have trouble getting roadworthy etc with gas conversions prior to compliance plates.
Anyone had any problems changing ownership / RWC ??

you shouldnt have any problem buying one already on gas, you should get a gas certificate upon sale.

rust in gutters is another to look for, as are a real pain in the arse to fix.
i just picked up a petty patrol with a factory locker, first locker for me.
and the locker itself is worth the 2500 i paid for the car.

Tzi wrote:

coxy321 wrote:What do you plan on doing with this car anyway? Touring, weekend basher, comps, tow rig, daily driver??

Touring, weekend basher, tow rig, daily driver, and a business car. So it needs to be capable, but also presentable No cut guards, huge lift or pipe-winchbar


I was told today by a gas fitter that I would be better off buying a petrol, and then converting it. (I'm sure thats in his best interests tho)
He said I may have trouble getting roadworthy etc with gas conversions prior to compliance plates.
Anyone had any problems changing ownership / RWC ??

I can't remember the year exactly, but i think it was very late 1980's that they brought in the laws for all cars fitted with LPG to be plated. Providing the car you are buying has a compliance/conversion plate for LPG, the tank is in date (they last 10 years) and there are no safety issues with the system, it will be just fine.

Your mate wants you to do the conversion to line his pockets. No question about that.

coxy321 wrote:Your mate wants you to do the conversion to line his pockets. No question about that.

thanks.. I figured the same when he told me it was $3650 for the conversion...on special!
...and at $4950 for gas injection... thats a lot of fuel savings to make before it becomes cheaper to run

I've been browsing ebay and the trading post, and thought of something.
How can I tell the difference between a GQ and an MQ just by looking at them online?
Different body panel, different grille??

Headlights are one thing to go by:

MK/MQ - Rectangle(or square cant remember)
GQ - Circle

Tzi wrote:I've been browsing ebay and the trading post, and thought of something.
How can I tell the difference between a GQ and an MQ just by looking at them online?
Different body panel, different grille??

Flared mudguards front and rear on the GQ!

http://www.4wdonline.com/Nissan/Nissan.html


GQ http://www.4wdonline.com/Nissan/GQ.html


MQ http://www.4wdonline.com/Nissan/MQ.html


MK

thanks that helps a lot
... I found an '89 model on the side of the road with about 190,000k's on it, on gas, for $6800, but was put off when the owner told me on the phone later that it was an MQ...
Its got round headlights, flared arches... and flares.

make sure it has the brace on the chassis for the front panhard rod.

this was not factory fitted to early GQs. and have a good look around the chassis in that area, cracks are not uncommon