Outer Limits 4x4 Board

just wondering , is the 1hz exhaust manifold stud pattern the same as a 1hdt Ie factory turbo manifold fits the 1hz , doubt it as im quite sure one is 4v per cyl... might be wrong and you dont know unless you ask.. id assume if they did fir that there would be alot of turbo 75 series out there... =] i was after a turbo manifold to suit a 1hz or a whole kit second hand for something im playing with ,any info would be sweet as im looking at my options

the exhaust manifold in the 1HZ and 1hdt have the same stud pattern and i think the 1HDTFT is also the same PM dow50r Andrew should be able to help you

ahh much thanks... makes me wonder why people dont just use the 1hdt manifold and turbo on a 1hz as a cheap powerup , im sure there is something im missing and not thinking thru as to why it does not happen , perhaps lack of manifolds etc

Given that you can get a "complete" water cooled mitsubishi DTS turbo kit (only) for a tad under 3k brand new, i'd say thats very affordable for the relevant outcome !

With only a days labour to fit and tune..its all good baby !

yeah i know what ur saying , i can get a safari kit for 2500 , usedto work for arb =] hence why i have both ends locked too =P.. however just come across a new kit a mate has had sitting round for just under the 1500 dollar mark as its surplus to hes requirements now and ive come across a 1hz for under 2 grand with a few bolt on goodies that will make me a bit of coin back hopefully.. i figure turbo whats in my rig and keep the other motor in case of heart attack.... so esensially for a touch over 3 grand i can have a spare engine and a breand new turbo kit with a water cooled garrett bb unit.. i think luck is finally rolling my way.. chuck in a front mount cooler and a big zorst and im ready to roll

IN24BZ wrote:ahh much thanks... makes me wonder why people dont just use the 1hdt manifold and turbo on a 1hz as a cheap powerup , im sure there is something im missing and not thinking thru as to why it does not happen , perhaps lack of manifolds etc

You're not missing anything. I put the manifold, and turbo off a 1hdt on my 1HZ. it was a straight bolt on affair and was just a matter of sorting out the plumbing.

all this talk on turbo'ing makes me wanna turbo mine..someday.

I have a Toyota turbo from a 79 series 1hdt that i got from franks parts at Smithfield he had it on ebay and was like new no shaft play up or down or in and out so was still like new turbo cost me $250 he retails them for $350 and the manifold i all ready had but he sells them for $400 and should have them in stock

try this one

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landcruiser-HDJ8 ... .m20.l1116

Iv'e just completed the 1HDT/CT26 turbo conversion on my 1HZ.

The studs are all the same however the manifolds are different being 3 stud flange on 1hz and 4 studs on the 1hdt to suit the CT26.
You basically need to have everything off a 1HDT and drill/tap where required for oil and water and remove timing case to fit one of the water lines. Make sure you get an 1HDT air intake as the sizes are completely different and not universal.

the 1hdt manifold fits straight into a 1hz....you need an oil line from the gauge sensor and a return in the sump and thats all. The 1hdft has square ports but thesame bolt pattern... so will fit but leak with round gaskets.
Andrew

IN24BZ wrote:ahh much thanks... makes me wonder why people dont just use the 1hdt manifold and turbo on a 1hz as a cheap powerup , im sure there is something im missing and not thinking thru as to why it does not happen , perhaps lack of manifolds etc

it does happen , just that you dont hear about it

you don't even need a 1HD-T manifold - buy or cut out a rectangular flange to suit your turbo, chop the triangular flange off the pipe that bolts to the manifold, and weld them together with a short (25 - 30mm) section of pipe, suitably shaped for decent flow characteristics. takes about 2 hours if you start from scratch with some 10mm plate and have only an electric drill, some hole saws, an angle grinder and a stick welder.

the rest is just plumbing - get some inlet elbows from the wreckers, plumb your oil return into the side of the sump, oil supply from behind the oil pressure sensor, and water if you really need it. if you're cheap, plumb the dump pipe back into your existing exhaust, otherwise get it running then drop it to your favourite exhaust guy for whatever exhaust treatment you can afford.

and water if you really need it

Dumbdunce,

Am I reading right, are you saying that water cooling for a water cooled turbo is not necassarily needed when installed to a 1HZ?

I am finally going to get around to fitting a turbo from a Nissan 300ZX to my 80. It's a water cooled turbo, but life would be much easier if I didn't have to fit water cooling. I don't plan to run much boost (8lb max).


Cheers,

Tom.

Landcruiser Tom wrote:

and water if you really need it

Dumbdunce,

Am I reading right, are you saying that water cooling for a water cooled turbo is not necassarily needed when installed to a 1HZ?

I am finally going to get around to fitting a turbo from a Nissan 300ZX to my 80. It's a water cooled turbo, but life would be much easier if I didn't have to fit water cooling. I don't plan to run much boost (8lb max).


Cheers,

Tom.

the 300ZX is a ball bearing turbo, plumbing the water would be a good idea - ball bearing turbos have a restrictor in the oil inlet so the actual oil supply is minimal, not a flood of oil as in a plane bearing turbo, so the cooling effect of the oil in a bb turbo is negligible.

it's by far the easiest bit, the water plumbing only has to hold 15psi, you can tee into the heater hoses or tap in to the appropriate places on the engine.

good choice of turbo, will clock nicely to suit the low mount position with an adaptor, make your adaptor with a slight angle so the dump pipe that comes with the turbo (assuming you get one with it) is not pointing straight at the firewall.

if you can get your turbo with all the banjos still on it for water and oil you can make up hoses and just hose clamp on to the banjo tails.

if you're using a plane bearing turbo you don't really need to plumb the water, but giving it some cool down time is necessary after hard or extended boost.