Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I want to put in an auto tranny temp (stepper motor) gauge and wondering where the sender usually goes?

Does it have to go in the sump and if so can it go in where the drain plug is? Otherwise will I have to drill and tap a new mounting point?

Can it go anywhere else, such as in the line going to the factory oil cooler?

It's for a Suzuki GV J20A with the auto box.

Cheers.

sump new hole

you could put it else where but it will defeat the purpose. if you sump drain plug go's in from the side i would think that it could work.
i suppose you could also put it in from the bottom just waiting for it to be ripped apart by something

i have mine in the return line from the cooler and the fan switch is in the line to the cooler

if fitting a trans temp guage It is very important to fit the sender into the transmissions out going cooler union that the oil uses when leaving the transmission on it's way towards the oil cooler and we needed to measure the temperature before it was cooled and not after. There are 2 good reasons for this. 1st/ Is that we want to measure the oil temperature at it's hottest point and that is as it is leaving the transmission and 2nd/ there's no use measuring the temperature in the sump after the pre cooled oil has mixed with the oil in the sump as this will tell you what you were doing 3 minutes ago and not instantly like the outgoing cooler union will do.
http://www.automatictransmission.com.au ... wsId=12031

cpt-mud wrote:if fitting a trans temp guage It is very important to fit the sender into the transmissions out going cooler union that the oil uses when leaving the transmission on it's way towards the oil cooler and we needed to measure the temperature before it was cooled and not after. There are 2 good reasons for this. 1st/ Is that we want to measure the oil temperature at it's hottest point and that is as it is leaving the transmission and 2nd/ there's no use measuring the temperature in the sump after the pre cooled oil has mixed with the oil in the sump as this will tell you what you were doing 3 minutes ago and not instantly like the outgoing cooler union will do.
http://www.automatictransmission.com.au ... wsId=12031

i would be fitting it to the pan as you want actual "trans temp" yeah it's god to no oil temp going to cooler but if the cooler was not working efficently return oil would be hot and then raise trans temp manfactures would not put it in the pan if it was not good to do so...

why mesure the temp in the sump, there is a mixture of hot and cooled oil, it would be like mesuringing the engine from the bottom tank of the radiator. I would prefer to get the oil reading at the hottest point as this is the acutal temp of the transmission

the out going temp will fluctuate greatly depending on how hard your working it. if you have a good cooler it doesnt matter how hot the outlet side is as long as the auto is getting a cool supply

cpt-mud wrote:why mesure the temp in the sump, there is a mixture of hot and cooled oil, it would be like mesuringing the engine from the bottom tank of the radiator. I would prefer to get the oil reading at the hottest point as this is the acutal temp of the transmission

The out going line is carrying fluid that has just come from the converter.

Any fluid that is used 'in' the box will return straight to the pan.
that is the fluid i'd be wanting to know about.
sure the return fluid from the cooler will lower the temp. but by driving the car you will get a feel for what your gauge should be reading.

by fitting it to the out going line all the gauge is telling you is how hard you are working the converter, nothing more.


PS: it doesn't take 3mins for the fluid to return to the pan.

The factory temp gauge on my cruiser is fitted to the outlet side of the auto for a reason. The oil coming from the converter will be the hottest oil and this is what you want to know, slipping of the turbine and stator in the converter will generated emense heat and this is what cooks the oil and potentially kills your box.

mine was fittedto the sump after a mate (who builds hi performance autos for a livin) tolled me to and it now reads a little higher than when it was in the output line (factory) so theirs gota be a reson for this

the temp sensor should be fitted to the SUMP.
you need to know how hot the oil is going INTO the trans not whats coming out of the converter.


JEs

Shifta wrote:The factory temp gauge on my cruiser is fitted to the outlet side of the auto for a reason. The oil coming from the converter will be the hottest oil and this is what you want to know, slipping of the turbine and stator in the converter will generated emense heat and this is what cooks the oil and potentially kills your box.

hot fluid going to the trans cooler doesn't kill boxes.
hot fluid being pumped into the box is what kills them.

you need to know your trans cooler is doing its job.

What about two senders where ever you like ( I would sugest one to outgoing oil ) one gauge and a switch between the senders to the gauge. If your setting this up from scratch it won't take much more time or money, and you could see what your cooler is actually doing.

brad-chevlux wrote:

Shifta wrote:The factory temp gauge on my cruiser is fitted to the outlet side of the auto for a reason. The oil coming from the converter will be the hottest oil and this is what you want to know, slipping of the turbine and stator in the converter will generated emense heat and this is what cooks the oil and potentially kills your box.

hot fluid going to the trans cooler doesn't kill boxes.
hot fluid being pumped into the box is what kills them.

you need to know your trans cooler is doing its job.

Maybe I should rephrase it for you so you understand that I said it is cooked oil that kills boxes. Where did I say that it was hot oil going to the cooler that kills the box? Please read carefully before quoting and making replies.

Factory temp sensors and high temp alarm sensors are located where the highest temp will be and that is at the outlet to the cooler, if the temp is not reducing you are either working the trans too hard o the cooler is inefficient. Is the water temp sensor in the bottom of the radiator measuring the temp of the water going back into the engine, I don't think so ad for good reason, the same reason the trans oil temp sensor should be in the outlet to the cooler.

Rodney at Wholesale Automatic Transmissions recommends measuring the the trans fluid at the hottest point which is why he taps into the fluid coming out of the torque convertor.
If it's good enough for him it's good enough for me. My GQ uses one of his temp kits and of all the mods I've had done to my auto the fitting of the trans temp gauge is the best by far for monitoring just how hard the auto is working under any and all conditions.
Regards Andrew.

awill4x4 wrote:Rodney at Wholesale Automatic Transmissions recommends measuring the the trans fluid at the hottest point which is why he taps into the fluid coming out of the torque convertor.
If it's good enough for him it's good enough for me. My GQ uses one of his temp kits and of all the mods I've had done to my auto the fitting of the trans temp gauge is the best by far for monitoring just how hard the auto is working under any and all conditions.
Regards Andrew.

wat he said... Rodney knows his shizzle.

what temperatures should you be seeing coming out of an auto? for a ZD30 auto specifically, touring, with a 1 tonne camper, plus alot of weight in the car, all on 33's

whats normal unloaded? whats safe and whats gonna kill the box when loaded up?