Outer Limits 4x4 Board

broken parts list so far-----------------------------------------------------------
clutch plate worn out
pressure plate gave way
clutch slave cylinder blew out
rusted bonnet and door hinges
major roof water leaks
twisted front drive shaft in to a knot
front axle uni joints worn out
bent outer front diff housing(where hub joints mount up)
busted front diff pinion bearings
metal in rear diff
LSD worn out
poor on fuel
engine noisey
gearbox noisey

not bad for a jeep with 15,000kms on the clock.
baught the 2 door jk sport dark green brand new.
it is featured in JEEP ACTION.

unless you want to spend big big bucks on a super market trolley, BUY A NISSAN.

YOU WILL REGRET IT>>>>>>>

shaneoforsure666 wrote:broken parts list so far-----------------------------------------------------------
clutch plate worn out
pressure plate gave way
clutch slave cylinder blew out
rusted bonnet and door hinges
major roof water leaks
twisted front drive shaft in to a knot
front axle uni joints worn out
bent outer front diff housing(where hub joints mount up)
busted front diff pinion bearings
metal in rear diff
LSD worn out

not bad for a jeep with 15,000kms on the clock.
baught the 2 door jk sport dark green brand new.
it is featured in JEEP ACTION.

unless you want to spend big big bucks on a super market trolley, BUY A NISSAN.

YOU WILL REGRET IT>>>>>>>

Doesn't the JK run CV's in the front axle and not Unis, sounds like it's had a hard life with busted pinion and bent housing etc as the front end is basically the same as the XJ which was made from 1984 to 2001 by the millions and plenty still running around without that sort of damage to the D30. Also looks like you just joined up to 'warn' us all?

Cheers
Steve

the front diff is a high pinion dana 30, the axles are joined at the wheel ends with unijoints, they are really weak, the next part to bake will be the front axles, the jk gets a major flogging but its a 4wheel drive, i guess we shall all learn from mistakes.

the front diff is a D44 in a JK not a D30, but uses D30 axles and knuckles, and yes uni joints on the axles, but cv's on the drive shafts.... as opposed to the older TJ and XJ which run uni's on drive shafts and axles..

I have still got the original uni's in my D30 at 140,000 clicks on 33's and plenty of wheeling and a trip around OZ...

jeepinjoejoe wrote:the front diff is a D44 in a JK not a D30, but uses D30 axles and knuckles, and yes uni joints on the axles, but cv's on the drive shafts.... as opposed to the older TJ and XJ which run uni's on drive shafts and axles..

I have still got the original uni's in my D30 at 140,000 clicks on 33's and plenty of wheeling and a trip around OZ...

I think only the Rubicon has a D44 front, all other jk's are D30 front, but different to TJ and XJ D30's in that they have a few bigger components and run 5 on 5.5" wheel nut spacings

oh by the way, list of breakages to my front diff on my old GQ : 6 CV joints, 10 sets of wheel bearings, 1 crown and pinnon, and 1 bent housing.

list of breakages on either of my jeeps diffs==nothing

patrols arent too much better unless you're running a GU front end.

YankeeDave wrote:

jeepinjoejoe wrote:the front diff is a D44 in a JK not a D30, but uses D30 axles and knuckles, and yes uni joints on the axles, but cv's on the drive shafts.... as opposed to the older TJ and XJ which run uni's on drive shafts and axles..

I have still got the original uni's in my D30 at 140,000 clicks on 33's and plenty of wheeling and a trip around OZ...

I think only the Rubicon has a D44 front, all other jk's are D30 front, but different to TJ and XJ D30's in that they have a few bigger components and run 5 on 5.5" wheel nut spacings

oh by the way, list of breakages to my front diff on my old GQ : 6 CV joints, 10 sets of wheel bearings, 1 crown and pinnon, and 1 bent housing.

list of breakages on either of my jeeps diffs==nothing

patrols arent too much better unless you're running a GU front end.

You're right with the diffs there. Only JK with D44 front is the rubicon. All others have a D30 (there was speculation of a D35 for the auto turbo diesels but i think this was false, jeep AU made an error in their specs).

Strength...well everyones definition of 4wding is different, and everyone drives differently.

shaneoforsure666 wrote: the jk gets a major flogging

enought said

http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?t=83002
there man, look at this.....
dony really think you know how to drive by the sounds of it.
me.....
95 xj, 250,000 kms on odo, sees mud of varying depths and hills, rocks and mowing down trees just about every weekend.
list of broken parts.....
none......
list of warn out parts.....
upper and lower front control arm bushes
front drive shaft uni's
brakes all round
carpet.... (water damage, he he that puddle was way too deep for me)
oh and after the lift was fitted, a sagging set of right rear leaf springs due to a heavy right foot.

dont whine about it just fix it, after all it is a jeep thing man!!!

sounds like he rides his clutch and needs galsses to see the tree stumps so he can drive around them and not use his diff housing to try and push the stumps over....


he didnt say it caught fire tho... so thats a bonus... maybe he should buy a auto camry

well for a fact i am a good driver, a very hard driver at that. its all to do with buying a jeep, i stuffed up very much indeed. all they are good for is prety much nothing. very poor on fuel and they fall apart.

shaneoforsure666 wrote:well for a fact i am a good driver, a very hard driver at that. its all to do with buying a jeep, i stuffed up very much indeed. all they are good for is prety much nothing. very poor on fuel and they fall apart.

And you're suprised about this? You bought alot of metal for not alot of money. Surely you had to expect that there'd be a catch?

Poor tradesmen ?

I get 12.5l/100km I thought that was good for a bricked shape 4x4, hwy driving it gets down in the 11s.
The stud pattern is 5 on 5 aswell

must be a JK thing, although my 4 JK mates have no such problems. Nor do i of course, but i've got a TJ

He aint no Jeep fan - nor is he a driver I would sit behind - I have a CRD 4 Door and I love it, 20,000 ks and all it has had is servicing

Unlucky mate

HAHAHA, maybe you should buy a mountain bike.

So your wheeling the crap out of a stockish truck, and expecting it to drive places that a standard car won't go, without leaving with the above mentioned damage?.

Poor on fuel? , really? never would have guessed with a 4.0 motor and a almost vertical front end.

The annual douche bag awards coming up after this short break.

90% of your so called shit car points are from abusing the thing. I'm sure jeep didn't put metal shavings in your diffs on purpose



Cheers
brad.

Did you even look under the JK before you "drove it pretty hard" offroad?

berad wrote:HAHAHA, maybe you should buy a mountain bike.

So your wheeling the crap out of a stockish truck, and expecting it to drive places that a standard car won't go, without leaving with the above mentioned damage?.

Poor on fuel? , really? never would have guessed with a 4.0 motor and a almost vertical front end.

The annual douche bag awards coming up after this short break.

90% of your so called shit car points are from abusing the thing. I'm sure jeep didn't put metal shavings in your diffs on purpose



Cheers
brad.

BWAHAHAHA pnwed by the Lux driver

mabe you should of got a TJ.... and saved $25'000

ian1974 wrote:mabe you should of got a Lada.... and saved $25'000

Fixed for ya

dude, ur fuel consumption would have nothing on my paj, 18l/100ks, and i think that if you used a little more grey matter when wheeling, you could avoid raping ur car

jeep97tj wrote:I get 12.5l/100km I thought that was good for a bricked shape 4x4, hwy driving it gets down in the 11s.
The stud pattern is 5 on 5 aswell

that is lots better then my sierra.

shaneoforsure666 wrote:well for a fact i am a good driver, a very hard driver at that. its all to do with buying a jeep, i stuffed up very much indeed. all they are good for is prety much nothing. very poor on fuel and they fall apart.

TOY

damn man, I want to buy a Jeep, that's not good.

I have found a great retailer for all jeep parts and accessories though. Check it out.

4x4 parts

I wouldnt be pointing my finger at the car it sounds more like the the way youve driven it.

If your running 35's with 3.21's in your diffs in a petrol shorty, that sort of damage doesnt surprise me. You would always need to use momentum to get those tyres to speed!!!

I reckon if you did the same in any other brand, the same damage would result.

It's an interesting point, and not too dissimilar to what happens with 1/2 tonne pickups - F150 Fords /K1500 chevys.

Just because a car is big and can physically fit a a big tyre doesn't mean it's engineered to take a big tyre and driven like you stole it.

A suzuki sierra can take a 31 with a 2" body lift, but it doesn't mean it's a durable car to drive with that tyre size without more money being spent on gearing etc.

It's well established that Jeep cut their engineering headroom a bit tighter than the japanese do - That's part of the reason why there's a massive aftermarket for heavy duty jeep drivetrain parts, and it's part of the reason why they are sigificantly cheaper than the Japanese wagons- they're a lighter duty product compared to a japanese wagon of the same basic size/power/tyre size.

Steve.

shaneoforsure666 wrote:well for a fact i am a good driver, a very hard driver at that. its all to do with buying a jeep, i stuffed up very much indeed. all they are good for is prety much nothing. very poor on fuel and they fall apart.

Maybe u think ur a good driver but doesnt a good driver know his vehicle, exactly what is it capable of an its limits

Sounds like ur full of urself an know jack sH!t about engineering, funny that many built jeeps around the world compete in some of the most hardcore events on the planet. And because u didnt learn about ur own jeep u break it and thinks its the jeeps fault. Machines aint at fault the users are

And before start to prattle on about them being modified there aint a comp truck worth anything on a competive level that aint modified regardless of badge. They all have strong points and weak points Good drivers know these both and fix the weak points as required