Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I'd soon like to run 35's on my 95dually lux but am not sure if i wil need to chop the guards as i dont want to run huge suspension to clear the guards.

The rear is getting a custom tray in the near future so its not my concern.

As for the front i am currently running 33's with around 2inch lift and its rare that they ever scrub. i dont want to lift my car more than another 2inch's...

WILL 2 MORE INCHES BE ENOUGH SO THE 35'S DONT SCRUB?
...or should i chop away at my guards??

yeah i would chop the gaurds. keeps it low. my last rig i went all out with suspension and high steer to run 37s truck spent most of its time in the shed in bits no driving just a money pit. my next rig will ifs rears and ruf 2? shackles good shocks and chopped gaurds hoping for 2? lift and 37s. just use longer bump stops and get shocks for mabey an inch up travel and max down travel

Trial and error mate, if your 33's sometimes scrub then the 35's will scrub a fair bit.


This is how I did my SAS'd runner (cut before SAS though), I drew the line where I want the gaurd to end, then another a few cm in from it. I cut to the inner line then made little tabs to the main line. Then folded the tabs in.





This gave a smooth visual finish from the outside and allowed me to still screw flares to the gaurd. Afterwards you couldn't see the tabs and it looked stock still, with no sharp edge.

After (ended up changing to black garden edge flares)

cheers lads, sounds like ive got some chopping to do in my near future...

If possible use a jigsaw, makes cutting the guards extremely easy.

Here is the line I did, and got rid of the rust in the cut.

dont think id need to cut out of the top of the guard just a bit of the back bottom corner (leafs in the front wont flex up that high) but looks like yours was a clean cut.. did u put flares on it??

relocate the diff further forward maby?

that would work but the wheel would prob hit my bullbar at full compression... would like to put a tube bar on it anyway.
thanks everyone for ur adviceee

Z()LTAN wrote:relocate the diff further forward maby?

x2

or chop it daddy

HTH wrote:dont think id need to cut out of the top of the guard just a bit of the back bottom corner (leafs in the front wont flex up that high) but looks like yours was a clean cut.. did u put flares on it??

Yes, I have 2" Flexi flare on it now.

I wouldn't of cut the top but it had the rust

fair enough.. truck looks good got any more pics??
PM me some if ya can, Cheers

To those guys that cut their guards....what tool did you use to fold those tabs inwards?

Just a simple set of pliers or a specialised set, orther?

would easy to deform the guards if not done right wouldnt it?

I just used some wide nose pliers and took my time. Didn't try bend one tab all the way on it's own to prevent creases etc.


The main reason I did it that way was to keep a surface I could attach a flare to properly, and to not have a razor blade edge (cut tin) for a guard where it was cut.

I used normal pliers... The wider set you use the better...

Mark your two lines about 10mm apart... cut the slits to about 8mm to allow for when you bend the tabs up ... this way you wont be left with any slits or imperfections still showing

my 35's hit the firewall pretty bad, i would think relocate the diff forward a bit to help compensate.

308LUX wrote:I used normal pliers... The wider set you use the better...

Mark your two lines about 10mm apart... cut the slits to about 8mm to allow for when you bend the tabs up ... this way you wont be left with any slits or imperfections still showing

Heh so other people have done it that way too. I only thought to do it a few minutes before cutting, for the obvious advantages.

thehanko wrote:my 35's hit the firewall pretty bad, i would think relocate the diff forward a bit to help compensate.

DO a RUF conversion... this will easily allow for 35"s and give you some nice articulation or drill the spring perch which is the easiest way...

unless you do what RUFF has done before and cut out the firewall and weld in some new sheet

RUF conversion??? please explain (new to 4x4 world)

HTH wrote:RUF conversion??? please explain (new to 4x4 world)

rear springs up the front. remove a few leaves, put in adjustable drag link, shorten or adjustable torque rod. so basically you chuck some ifs rears into your rear then reuse your rears up the front of you truck. bit of lift, better flex and shifts your diff forward. need to make sure front drive shaft is long enough for this too.

the locator pin on the rear springs is in a different spot and it woul shift you diff forward alot. but on your lhs perch it has 3 holes, you use the front one and drill a hole to match on the rhs.

located you diff forward 1-2 inches and clears 35's without the chop chop.

ideally done with a cross over steering conversion, but im goint to try with out it.

im in the process of this at the moment on my car.

HTH wrote:RUF conversion??? please explain (new to 4x4 world)

RUF means... using your rear springs up front... use the top 3 stock rear springs with the top 3 stock front springs to make a spring pack for your front... this will move your diff forward 1-2 inches because the centre pin on the spring pack is drilled further back... need a 2" dropped hanger and 130mm eye to eye extended shackles

ruf, plus redrilling perchs, no chop needed, 2inch lift gives plenty of movement with no chop, excessive lift = gheeeey with aids






no chopping is needed for 35s or even 37s if you do it right. shock hoops is good to do at the same time, mine are on the piss, and are chewing the bushs there 4inch lift hilux shocks and need bigger., but the shocks bottom out without the packs opening or shackle bottoming out, a 45degree angle is the angle your after for best articulation.

4+inchs of compression before coming into contact with front of guard near bullbar.... for the win.......

ps, you dont need a drop hanger, mine runs a stock hanger, new front shaft is needed, as mine is moved foward almost 6inchs with the re drill and rear springs, with the bullbar off the 35s are the foward most part of the truck. i used the 2 mains from the rear pack and 3 from the stock front, its all trial and error until you get ride height, sag, flex etc etc right. x over or hi steer is almost a must to use the extra flex or steering will bind up on the springs and shocks, its all in the bible, although the pitman arm etc comes close to leaf packs with not so much lift, mines about 15mm off hitting the leaf packs at full compression.

chopped guards with no lift at all and 37"s = way less gheeey

= pissant flex and 37s rubbing on the innergaurds=gayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyer than cum on a beard

im putting 60 series diffs in my luxy so wouldnt it be eazier to maybe move the leaf perches forward and maybe use a 60 series leaff?

berad wrote:ruf, plus redrilling perchs, no chop needed, 2inch lift gives plenty of movement with no chop, excessive lift = gheeeey with aids






no chopping is needed for 35s or even 37s if you do it right. shock hoops is good to do at the same time, mine are on the piss, and are chewing the bushs there 4inch lift hilux shocks and need bigger., but the shocks bottom out without the packs opening or shackle bottoming out, a 45degree angle is the angle your after for best articulation.

4+inchs of compression before coming into contact with front of guard near bullbar.... for the win.......

ps, you dont need a drop hanger, mine runs a stock hanger, new front shaft is needed, as mine is moved foward almost 6inchs with the re drill and rear springs, with the bullbar off the 35s are the foward most part of the truck. i used the 2 mains from the rear pack and 3 from the stock front, its all trial and error until you get ride height, sag, flex etc etc right. x over or hi steer is almost a must to use the extra flex or steering will bind up on the springs and shocks, its all in the bible, although the pitman arm etc comes close to leaf packs with not so much lift, mines about 15mm off hitting the leaf packs at full compression.

Are you running 35s no body lift mate

how bad is the scrubbage
cheers shane

TUF-35T wrote: Are you running 35s no body lift mate

how bad is the scrubbage
cheers shane

I was running 2" Lift and extended shackles, no body lift and only rubs on the drivers side when the wheels are turned.

Hopefully the RUF fixes it

no body lift, yes i run 35s off road, no scrubbage, those pics are of it running the 35s, 35s are no good for stock diff ratios though, rears up front etc need a few mods to make it work to its potential.... xover/histeer, shockhoops & longer shocks, diff gears/krawler gears, bumpstops, exteneded front shaft with a longer slipjoint as it falls out with the extra articulation.

a 45degree shackle angle is what is best, no point in having a vertical shackle as its bottomed out in droop already. defeating the purpose other than giving it an inch or two of lift.

could put 37s on and wouldnt scrub would just need to xtend bumpstops. the only lift i have is from shackles more or less, front packs are almost flat at right height, rears are the same. front works like a dream and rears run ifs and leave soemthing to be desired compared to front but are an improvement on std best bang for buck without mucking around with things but are about to make way for something better.

when you say your leaves are flat at right height have u pulled one or more bars out of your leafs so youve got maximum flex down minimum flex up??

I have a shitload of things to consider when doing 60series diffs conversion haha. The more i read the longer my car is going to be off the road haha.

What type of steering is cheaper/more effective... Xover or HIsteer?

Hi steer is the best because all the rods are above the diff, buts its more expensive.

the springs will invert over the diff for compression.

yer ive taken out load bearers and mixed and matched to get the height i want.