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hilux alternators
Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:28 pm
by thehanko
My alternator failed me last week and whilst its going again (broken solder) it is not putting out as much charge as it should. 12.8V insteadt 0f 13.5-14. so no rush but will be replacing it in the near future.
it is the 3L diesel with external regulator and rear vacuume pump.
Is there an aftermarket higher output alternator available? or should i just get a rebuilt one?
I will probably get a new reg as well as it has average points inside.
Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:43 pm
by beinthemud
it'll be similar to mine i just rebuilt it
there tend to be a couple of set ups
standard up graded
alot more power across the range (idle and revving)
no power at idel and full power while reving or load
i went with standard upgraded style so makes more power than standard
as i dont winch for long periods dont have lots of lights and can sometimes sit at idel waiting for my turn to play in the mud .
it depends on what you are doing i guess and weather you have high draw or not.
ie winching for long periods , high draw lights , long trips between these and also long periods at idel
Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:01 pm
by thehanko
beinthemud wrote:it'll be similar to mine i just rebuilt it
there tend to be a couple of set ups
standard up graded
alot more power across the range (idle and revving)
no power at idel and full power while reving or load
i went with standard upgraded style so makes more power than standard
as i dont winch for long periods dont have lots of lights and can sometimes sit at idel waiting for my turn to play in the mud .
it depends on what you are doing i guess and weather you have high draw or not.
ie winching for long periods , high draw lights , long trips between these and also long periods at idel
sorry can you go through that again? im a little confused.
Currently with lights on, wipers on, fan going and stereo on the stereo will start dropping out.
I have a winch, 100w spotties and amped stereo so more than standard but i dont have a roof full of lights etc.
got quoted 220 to rebuild, 300 to exchange but they didnt mention anything re output changes.
Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:02 pm
by thrashlux
I would start out with a solid state external reg (you need that anyway)not many cheap options for a diesel lux with vac pump for total alt replacement for internal type
then if that doenst solve it check your brushes and diodes
change the bearings while you are at it
Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 1:31 pm
by thehanko
thrashlux wrote:I would start out with a solid state external reg (you need that anyway)not many cheap options for a diesel lux with vac pump for total alt replacement for internal type
then if that doenst solve it check your brushes and diodes
change the bearings while you are at it
so solid state is just one that keeps the alternator going full time? or just a new regulator?
Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 3:41 pm
by thrashlux
thehanko wrote:thrashlux wrote:I would start out with a solid state external reg (you need that anyway)not many cheap options for a diesel lux with vac pump for total alt replacement for internal type
then if that doenst solve it check your brushes and diodes
change the bearings while you are at it
so solid state is just one that keeps the alternator going full time? or just a new regulator?
solid state are the transistorized ones they charge at a higher more constant voltage than the old vibrating contact ones it is a different type more efficient more modern no moving parts
you can tell them apart by the way the lid is lower than the original vibrating contact types
and it will have written on the cover solid state temperature compensated
ingrams sell them.
cheers
jonathan
Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:30 am
by thehanko
thrashlux wrote:thehanko wrote:thrashlux wrote:I would start out with a solid state external reg (you need that anyway)not many cheap options for a diesel lux with vac pump for total alt replacement for internal type
then if that doenst solve it check your brushes and diodes
change the bearings while you are at it
so solid state is just one that keeps the alternator going full time? or just a new regulator?
solid state are the transistorized ones they charge at a higher more constant voltage than the old vibrating contact ones it is a different type more efficient more modern no moving parts
you can tell them apart by the way the lid is lower than the original vibrating contact types
and it will have written on the cover solid state temperature compensated
ingrams sell them.
cheers
jonathan
Thanks mate, ill start with that. mine is definitely the old school one.