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Sierra rear tailshaft extended slip solutions required

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:19 pm
by cj
I need a rear tailshaft with more slip for my Sierra. It needs at least 70mm of slip and possibly a bit more if I get all the articulation out of it that is possible. It will also need modifying for length.

I know Snake racing does an extended slip but at $550 plus modifying that is going to hurt more than I want just at the moment.

The Hilux tailshaft doesn't have enough slip either in standard form and there will also be extra mods to work a Sierra flange.

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:33 pm
by GRPABT1
You sure it's more slip you need and not just more travel? What kind me arc does your rear uni move on to need more slip?

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:52 pm
by redzook
x2 details on the suspension

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:54 pm
by cj
My tailshaft needs to move between 845mm and 915mm in length, Damned SPUA cars :D

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:59 pm
by cj
redzook wrote:x2 details on the suspension
It's a 1.0 (well it was but now its shrunk a bit) with leaves all around, still SPUA and it has a little bit of up travel and little bit more down travel.

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 5:46 pm
by ajsr
don't lowrange or onr of them do a longer slip section fot the tailshaft ready to fit I think.http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samaxles.htm
$69 us
Is this what your looking for??

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 7:51 pm
by cj
ajsr wrote:don't lowrange or onr of them do a longer slip section fot the tailshaft ready to fit I think.http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samaxles.htm
$69 us
Is this what your looking for??
Thanks but that won't do it. It needs longer inner and outer splines.

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:08 pm
by alien
can you spacer both ends of the shaft to make do for now?

I had mine done by a driveshaft place near my work... search "drivelines" around the traps and you should find a place to make you a custom one quite cheap... although $500 sounds about right if its all new parts.

Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:58 pm
by GRPABT1
cj wrote:
redzook wrote:x2 details on the suspension
It's a 1.0 (well it was but now its shrunk a bit) with leaves all around, still SPUA and it has a little bit of up travel and little bit more down travel.
I still don't see how you need more slip travel, tail shaft spacers should do. the rear axle should move in an arc and if anything toward the transfer case on droop. I've got about 2.5 inches of spacers on both my front and read shafts due to wheelbase stretch, after the length was rectified even with my 3/4 at rediculous droop my tailshaft is sweet.

Re: Sierra rear tailshaft extended slip solutions required

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 8:08 am
by Highway-Star
cj wrote:I need a rear tailshaft with more slip for my Sierra. It needs at least 70mm of slip and possibly a bit more if I get all the articulation out of it that is possible. It will also need modifying for length.

I know Snake racing does an extended slip but at $550 plus modifying that is going to hurt more than I want just at the moment.

The Hilux tailshaft doesn't have enough slip either in standard form and there will also be extra mods to work a Sierra flange.

70mm aint much.
Rigid axle Hilux front shaft with the DC joint?
Not sure on length overall (I know a sierra tailshaft fits in the front of a Hilux with undersize bolts :D :roll: ), but the spline has (if I remember correctly) about 80mm travel. Can measure later if needed.

Had to get a custum made up for a Hilux front, cost about $700 built from scratch (bring home, bolt in), has about 160mm travel in spline (damn trailing front leaves).

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:06 am
by FC3892
get a drop saw, cut the yoke. find some tube that will side over the spline, weld that to the cut yoke as a spacer. then find some steam pipe to slide over the yoke..... weld both ends
Is that what your after?

Image

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:59 am
by cj
Apart from the fact that the shaft needs to be lengthened anyway I also need more spline length as it will have have almost no engagement at full extension.

As it stands now I have about 100mm of spline. I need at least 70mm of that for slip and I want to leave about 15mm to 20mm available for unforseen circumstances. That leaves me with almost no engagement at full extension hence the need for a longer slip section.

I had a look at a front Hilux shaft yesterday (not sure which one) and it wasn't really offering much more. Snake have a long sllip section available for $500 but unfortunately my budget is pretty tight at the moment.

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 10:05 am
by VR Rodeo
How about fabbing up a square shaft ? Dont know how it will handle on road but.

Image

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:10 am
by GRPABT1
cj wrote:Apart from the fact that the shaft needs to be lengthened anyway I also need more spline length as it will have have almost no engagement at full extension.

As it stands now I have about 100mm of spline. I need at least 70mm of that for slip and I want to leave about 15mm to 20mm available for unforseen circumstances. That leaves me with almost no engagement at full extension hence the need for a longer slip section.

I had a look at a front Hilux shaft yesterday (not sure which one) and it wasn't really offering much more. Snake have a long sllip section available for $500 but unfortunately my budget is pretty tight at the moment.
But how much spline is left showing on full compression? (without the boot on of course). You will gain more spling on full droop if you have the room to fit a spacer.

Once again, what is your suspension setup? I just can't see how you'd need more spline on full extension unless you have some wierd rear shackle reversal setup. Normal shackle setups, 3/4 elliptic rears, even coils and coil overs with control arms all swing down in an arc that should keep the rear axle the same or similar distance away from the transfer, if not then closer on droop.

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:32 am
by cj
I have 5" more wheelbase at the rear than a normal trayback thanks to 10" longer springs and I also have extended shackles. The measurements of 845mm and 915mm are flange to flange at full droop and full compression and I'm using pretty much the full travel of the Old Man Emu N76 shocks front and rear. A spacer won't cut it.

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:33 am
by cj
And the packs are still clamped too ;)

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:38 am
by cj
There's still more travel in it than shown here but you get the idea

Image

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:55 am
by FC3892
So less im missing something, why not cut the weld round the ends of youe shaft. Get a new tube an press them in (weld ect). maken the new tail shaft aslong as u need... grab a nother female yoke. cut an shut that to have asmuch length as u need, We have made longer an shorter ones. mines stood up to a locked diff an 33's with a turbo 1.5, brothers have a commo V6 an 33's no issues

Adam

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:28 pm
by greg
CJ,

How about talking to Matt (TT) - perhaps he could cut a length of something with some splines in it and make it up for you?

Otherwise, i'm thinking that dobbins would surely make a more expensive shaft than snake racing... that would have to be the way to go.

http://www.dobbinengineering.com/products.htm

http://www.dobbinengineering.com/New%20 ... shaft1.JPG

Cheers

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:30 pm
by Gwagensteve
AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH

Why can't everyone understand it's not the fawking driveshaft that's too short it's the fawking SPLINE TRAVEL that's too short.

Due to a large range of factors and geometry, even if the sierra slip was fully bottomed at full droop, it's not going to have enough spline engagement at droop.

If you plan on answering with " you need a longer driveshaft" don't bother.

This is road legal, engineered car. A square tube driveshaft isn't an option.

At the moment, there would be a very real risk the driveshaft will fall apart at full droop. That would ruin Cj's day.

That's with 100mm of spline.

I think the car needs at least 125mm of spline to have enough spline engagement at full droop to stop the shaft falling apart.

This is not related to strength.
It's not related to the length of the tube of the shaft.
It's not related to whether a double cardan shaft is used.

It's 100% a spline length issue.

If you know of a car with more than 100mm of spline, please let us know.

Steve.

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:43 pm
by ljxtreem
Pretty sure MQ shafts had at least that much, but it might be a struggle trying to adapt the MQ flange to Zook.
I might go see Jim tomorrow and see what leftovers I have from the buggy

Mock :D

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:39 pm
by Gwagensteve
I have one of your old MQ shafts in the shed Mock - fail - 60mm of travel.

Steve.

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:52 pm
by ajsr
you know steve and cj where you might get exactly what you chasing is through tractor/ag repairer/spareparts places. Im fairly certain that I have seen lenghts of spline in the one I deal with,If you like Ill ask whats available when I pick up a machine they are fixing for me on monday.
I belive Ive seen 2 foot long lengths for pto shafts .
what sort of spline count do you require??As I think most ag stuff in a fairly course spline maybe 8 - 12 spline

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:39 pm
by 6rxhx
You can buy splined shaft and sleeve for tractors, as said by ajsr


Have a look at this website
www.bareco.com.au/files/topindex.htm

Around 1 3/8 21 spline sounds about right

Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:49 pm
by 6rxhx
or here

http://www.oemdynamics.com.au/cat2pt0/shaft2.html

Its about $130 for 6" of 1 3/8 21 spline coupling and 8" 1 3/8 21 spline shaft

That should be long enough

Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 4:40 pm
by GRPABT1
Gwagensteve wrote:AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH

Why can't everyone understand it's not the fawking driveshaft that's too short it's the fawking SPLINE TRAVEL that's too short.

Due to a large range of factors and geometry, even if the sierra slip was fully bottomed at full droop, it's not going to have enough spline engagement at droop.

If you plan on answering with " you need a longer driveshaft" don't bother.

This is road legal, engineered car. A square tube driveshaft isn't an option.

At the moment, there would be a very real risk the driveshaft will fall apart at full droop. That would ruin Cj's day.

That's with 100mm of spline.

I think the car needs at least 125mm of spline to have enough spline engagement at full droop to stop the shaft falling apart.

This is not related to strength.
It's not related to the length of the tube of the shaft.
It's not related to whether a double cardan shaft is used.

It's 100% a spline length issue.

If you know of a car with more than 100mm of spline, please let us know.

Steve.
Righto righto don't get your knickers in a twist Steve, he could've said that from the start. Nice work btw ;)

Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:21 pm
by joeblow
steve?.................gettin his budgy smugglers in a twist?







noooooooooooooooo.........





yes......tractor stuff good idea.
looks like the front won't need it though.

Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:26 pm
by Dozoor
As 6RX showed

http://www.bareco.com.au/files/pto2002/pto11.htm


I would buy two sleaves , weld one into the female end ,
the other i would weld the shaft into then weld this into the tail shaft .



(somone has a far to long sig line or somthing its making the posts pain
in the ass wide.)

Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 7:30 pm
by bazooked
those bareco ones arent that strong compared to automotive splines, i used to do tailshafts for a living, you can get long splines which are made by spicer, go visit driveline services, depending where you r they will fix it up its not that hard!

Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:10 pm
by Gwagensteve
We've taken some more careful measurements today and we *might* be ok with a sierra slip. It's going to be close run thing though. We're going to get one made up with a standard slip for now. If it turns out to be inadequate one we've , we'll investigate our options.

The front is flexing almost exactly as far as the rear. It's very well balanced. the issue is more associated with the geometry - we've done some tricks to improve clearance at the rear and that's changing the axle path.

Steve.