Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys just a big THANK YOU for all your help and information!!! Took me 3.5hours to do. Only had to bang the area around the transfer out a little towards the 4l area but basically stuff all. I had to drop the fan shroud two inch's oh and to get the rear bolts i just drilled out some of the body to get to them, no bother really.

Was actually quite easy but what helped the most was all the help and information i got off this site.

CHEERS
Marc

Good to see another happy camper. It took a mate and I about 2.5hrs and 6pack each.

Gesh ...... sorry mate I totally forgot about the pics u wanted

Congrats. 3.5hr aint bad at all for your first. As tiresome as it might be, just double check all the things that may have stretched:

- fuel tank filler
- fuel line from tank
- fuel line to engine
- breathers
- steering column, in particular the rubber yoke before the steering box (if you have the rubber yoke)
- air lines
- wiring around firewall
- head light wiring
- towing wiring

That sort of stuff. Be better to pick up dangerous stuff now than have it fail on you on the trail (not that I know or anything )

Have checked most things around the car and will re-check in a week from now.
What did grab my attention was the way the steering spline seperated once the lift was done. I dont know exactly how to explain it but it seems the steering shaft goes directlty into the steering box with the exception of some sort of unijoint. The spline came out of one side of this unijoint about 10mm but none out of the other side, closer to the steering box.

Would it be possible to loosen those two grub screws off again and try and centralise the ammount of spline on each side ie. 5mm on each side??

I know this sounds awfully confusing but its really hard for me to describe.

Cheers in advance for the information.

Marc

The steering box shaft has a groove around the whole shaft, the bolt on the rag joint runs in this groove, preventing the joint from coming off. The shaft from the steering wheel has a flat ground into it ( so the shaft is D shaped), but not right to the end, this allows some slip in the spline when the bolt is loosened, but as the shaft is not ground all the way to the end, the rag joint will still be retained when the bolt is in place. So you will only be able to extend the steering shaft from this end.

Area54 is right - the two ends of the rag joint will not come off the spline until the grub screws are taken out completely. They should slide a few centimeters on the spline though, with a bit of coaxing with a hammer. Just make sure they slid enough to keep the guide pins on one half of the rag joint in their slots on the other half. Mine were out too far, and the rubber is not enough to hold the joint together by itself.

Actually checked the stretch in my clutch yesterday - I was totally stupid and didn't realise it was hydraulically actuated! I thought it was a cable and lever type like other cars I've owned. Learn something every day, don't you? Now I see where the stretch occurs - at the back of the engine bay (on the firewall) the fluid line comes out of the clutch cylinder and into a brace on the firewall. A tube then runs down to the clutch behind the engine. After the body lift, the brace obviously moves up and the clutch doesn't. Mine was tight, but not terribly so I don't think. I just hammered the brace down a bit to give it a bit of slack.

Thanks for the description it really helped heaps.


Marc