Very Bad Voltage Drop ??????
Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:38 pm
Frist the history...
I recently moved my three batteries from the engine bay to behind the drivers seat on my 80s. They are all 130a/h Trojan Deep Cycle batteries. One battery is used for starting and the other two are wired in paralell. They are all connected using 70mm2 tinned copper marine cable with professionally crimped terminals. 2 x 70mm2 POS cables run into the engine bay to two studs. The starter motor is connected to the starting battery POS and the auxuillary fuse box connectes to the other. Another 70mm2 NEG cable runs to the engine block that also has 35mm2 NEG running from the engine to the chassis. I also have a 35mm2 NEG running from the engine block to the inner guard (both about a 500mm long). A Redarc solenoid is used to control charge to all the batteries.
After getting out the multimeters to find a bad earth problem highlighted by a malfunctioning headunit, I have noticed the following...
While the main battery reads 12.50v across the terminals, the AUX has 11.10 and both the measurements repeat themselves when tested at different points on the vehicle and in the engine bay. I also tested all the NEG cables and they show the same readings. When the engine is started, I get 14.4v across the main batery terminals and at the Redarc but the voltage drops to 9.67v across the Aux abtteries and on the Aux side of the Redarc. I suspect that the AUX voltage of 11.10 is because the fridge has been running off the AUX batteries for about 8 days and not getting any charge.
I have done some decent winching in the past through the Redarc and suspect it may have given up the ghost but I can still hear the relay click in and out. I don't understand why the AUX batery voltage drops when the engine is started. Even after a 45min drive, the Aux batteries remained at 9.67v. Both POS terminals on the AUX batteries have started to get corrosion on them too, but not the starting battery.
It would be great if someone could confirm what I think I already know - that the Redarc is dead???? or is it something more sinister???
Also, if the Redarc is considered dead, should I replace it with same or something better?
Cheers,
Nathan
I recently moved my three batteries from the engine bay to behind the drivers seat on my 80s. They are all 130a/h Trojan Deep Cycle batteries. One battery is used for starting and the other two are wired in paralell. They are all connected using 70mm2 tinned copper marine cable with professionally crimped terminals. 2 x 70mm2 POS cables run into the engine bay to two studs. The starter motor is connected to the starting battery POS and the auxuillary fuse box connectes to the other. Another 70mm2 NEG cable runs to the engine block that also has 35mm2 NEG running from the engine to the chassis. I also have a 35mm2 NEG running from the engine block to the inner guard (both about a 500mm long). A Redarc solenoid is used to control charge to all the batteries.
After getting out the multimeters to find a bad earth problem highlighted by a malfunctioning headunit, I have noticed the following...
While the main battery reads 12.50v across the terminals, the AUX has 11.10 and both the measurements repeat themselves when tested at different points on the vehicle and in the engine bay. I also tested all the NEG cables and they show the same readings. When the engine is started, I get 14.4v across the main batery terminals and at the Redarc but the voltage drops to 9.67v across the Aux abtteries and on the Aux side of the Redarc. I suspect that the AUX voltage of 11.10 is because the fridge has been running off the AUX batteries for about 8 days and not getting any charge.
I have done some decent winching in the past through the Redarc and suspect it may have given up the ghost but I can still hear the relay click in and out. I don't understand why the AUX batery voltage drops when the engine is started. Even after a 45min drive, the Aux batteries remained at 9.67v. Both POS terminals on the AUX batteries have started to get corrosion on them too, but not the starting battery.
It would be great if someone could confirm what I think I already know - that the Redarc is dead???? or is it something more sinister???
Also, if the Redarc is considered dead, should I replace it with same or something better?
Cheers,
Nathan