Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey just wondering what the advantages and problems of running bigger tires is i have an 84 4runner with 33x12.5 but its not as capable as most of the 4wd's i go out with and its probably cause i dont have as much cash to spend but for cheap mods whats the best way to go i also have a rear locker maybe thinking limo up front or the 35x12.5 tires?
Any ideas would be appreciated

Do you have any suspension mods?

if you have 33's and a rear locker you should be doing ok

is yours a leaf front end?

I would be putting a nice set of soft ,lifted leaves under it with long travel shocks that will make a really big difference to how it drives rides and flexes over a std set or even high stiff set

would be less cash than 35's
and you would probably need them to run 35's

i think it is the next logical step

thrashlux wrote:Do you have any suspension mods?

if you have 33's and a rear locker you should be doing ok

is yours a leaf front end?

I would be putting a nice set of soft ,lifted leaves under it with long travel shocks that will make a really big difference to how it drives rides and flexes over a std set or even high stiff set

would be less cash than 35's
and you would probably need them to run 35's

i think it is the next logical step

x2

it should be a fairly capable rig. but i would say more travel as well.

84 is leaf all round? if so improving travel is the best bet.

sorry should have mentioned that i have about 4'' suspension lift the front can flex so my 33 is about 20cm below guards but back is fairly sad it also is set up for 35s as in guards cut and diff moved forward it is capable but what im trying to do requires just that bit more and traction and diff clearance are my main issues but i was worried with 35 if it might be too much stress on running gear as reliability in the scrubs always an issue[/img]

Bung a $400 autolocker in the front if money is tight do the rear the same way as well if you don't mind changing your on road driving style a little.

That way you will be twin locked for $800 if you can install them yourself.

Cheers

4RUNNER_01 wrote:sorry should have mentioned that i have about 4'' suspension lift the front can flex so my 33 is about 20cm below guards but back is fairly sad it also is set up for 35s as in guards cut and diff moved forward it is capable but what im trying to do requires just that bit more and traction and diff clearance are my main issues but i was worried with 35 if it might be too much stress on running gear as reliability in the scrubs always an issue[/img]

so at full flex/ full down travel your wheel is only 20cm from the guard? this is your problem.

eg my car has 22cm clearance from the guard sitting on the bitchumen, and more like 35 when flexed (which is not heaps). are you sure its 4 inches lifted? if it is are the shocks permanetly stopping it sitting higher? how are your brake lines?

check your shocks and check you gap at the front bump stop? and come back with some measurments.

Im pretty sure the extra traction you want will be achieved with a change in suspension set up.

sorry i didnt make that clear the wheel can flex so the top of it is 20cm below the bottom of the guard which would be closer to 50cm or more of flex down. but the rear not so much probably only 15cm of flex down idk why its set up like this but thats how i bought it.
i have a rear locker i was thinking maybe front locker but it could become an issue if it locks up every time i turn around off road and i dont have enough $$ for an air locker i know some1 will say that.

500mm is alot of droop from rideheight, what shocks are you running.

Unless your diff is dragging arrse because of deep ruts, 33's are big enough for the runner diff pumpkins without running into more money to make 35s work.., 33's on a lux/runner has almost the same diff clearance as a patrol on 35s.

I dont think 35s will fix your problems, letting tyres down is another way to get more traction for free. loses a lil height, but advantages outweigh disadvantages imo, i run 8-12psi in mine. 20psi will make a big difference over road going pressures, bigger footprint and moulds over rocks etc.

4RUNNER_01 wrote:sorry i didnt make that clear the wheel can flex so the top of it is 20cm below the bottom of the guard which would be closer to 50cm or more of flex down. but the rear not so much probably only 15cm of flex down idk why its set up like this but thats how i bought it.
i have a rear locker i was thinking maybe front locker but it could become an issue if it locks up every time i turn around off road and i dont have enough $$ for an air locker i know some1 will say that.

I would say your rear shocks are too short at 630mm for a 4 inch lift.

either invert and deal with issues re rego next year etc or go longer shocks.

my rear shocks on my road car are 610ish long and with a 2 inch lift they limit my down travel. you have more lift again and little extra shock length.

I would say try to get something around 700 long or invert. going to a longer main spring will help with your flex as well as your shakle angle is probably to verticle.

try pulling your shocks out and see how it flexs then as a test you can flex it up and measure your shock mount to see how long the shock would need.

I would get a new softer set of rear springs as well as the longer shocks

Thanks guys sounds good so more flex sounds like what i need and maybe lower tire pressures i normally run 18-20 i might start going down to 15 and ill flex the back with disconnected shocks and see the length i need
also my shackles are strait down so i know i needed longer springs to make them work for me but i didnt wanna move the diff back is there any way of not moving it?

4RUNNER_01 wrote:Thanks guys sounds good so more flex sounds like what i need and maybe lower tire pressures i normally run 18-20 i might start going down to 15 and ill flex the back with disconnected shocks and see the length i need
also my shackles are strait down so i know i needed longer springs to make them work for me but i didnt wanna move the diff back is there any way of not moving it?

IFS rears will be 40-50mm longer and give about 2 inch lift over std. but keep you diff where it is.

other option is to play with your pack, maybe take out a leaf from the middle to bottom of the pack which looks to stiff and get a new main made up to the exact length to put your shackle about 45 deg and replace the top leaf in yours with that.