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33's rubbing.
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 3:32 pm
by Sam T
Dads 85 hilux has 33's with 2" spring lift and 2" cab lift. The 33's hit on the inner guard at full lock about 3" before it hits the bump stop. We are thinking of either going to an 80mm spring lift shown here:
http://www.efs4wd.com.au/toyota.html or relocating the diff foward 1".
Our fist option would be to increase the spring lift as we have another hilux we can use the 2" lift in.
Will the extra lift be enough? Should we do the lift or relocation or both?
Also, will the relocation cause the diff to hit the sump if we upgrade to a 3rz with 4wd sump.
Thanks
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 3:33 pm
by macca81
FBH
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 3:40 pm
by Sam T
That is an option, but they hit really bad, so we would need to do a lot of panel beating to get clearance.
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 4:59 pm
by berad
Big bang bang
I wouldnt fit a 3.5inch spring lift on top of a 2inch body, theres no need to lift it that much to fit 33's, you can fit 35's easily without lifting it more than 2 inchs with no body lift.
Do they hit the steering stops on the diff?, if not wind them out until they do and then a few more mm.
Moving the diff foward will work, if it flexs half decent youll probly pop the front shaft everynow and then, you'll need a shortened draglink and adj torque rod.
or put bump stops in to limit the spring packs compression (my personal favourite)
Moving the diff foward will clear the sump, mines moved foward close to 6 inchs and is fine, you don't need a 4wd sump to fit a 3rz into a 4x4 hilux.
The less lift the better in my book.
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:02 pm
by Sam T
berad wrote:
Moving the diff foward will clear the sump, mines moved foward close to 6 inchs and is fine
We only have enough space to move it forward a few inches or it will hit on the front of the wheel arch. Was thinking about using the snake racing 1" relocation plates. We want to try and solve the problem with as little panel modifications as possible.
The wheel hit the guard going through a small ditch steering straight.
We picked the drivers side up on full lock with the forklift to about 300mm before it hit, so the travel is very poor.
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:21 pm
by berad
You dont need to buy plates really, when the springs come off the diff perchs,i cant remember either the pass or drivers has a hole drilled a bit over an inch behind the middle hole, replicate that on the other perch and put the spring locating pin in the back holes and job done.
I dont know why its hitting so bad though, i had 33's on mine and would scrub the firewall when it flexed almost to maximum compression. and that was almost stock ride height, yours is lifted 4 inchs.
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:54 pm
by hilux79
I'd move the diff forward. The lower you can keep the car the more stable it will be. Mine with a 2" spring and 2" body lift used to scrub with 33's on lock at full flex. I moved my diff forward 35mm and I have heaps of clearance now. I run a shaft spacer and have had no trouble with my front shaft. I don't think you could do it without a spacer or extended shaft.
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:56 pm
by Sam T
We are running Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ tyres on Classic II 15x10 rims
The suspension is Ironman.
Could either of these be causing problems?
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 10:04 pm
by Sam T
Does anyone know where to buy an adjustable drag link that can be shortened?