Outer Limits 4x4 Board

How much hp can you get out of a 80 series cruiser 4.2td factory gxl or after market turbo system. Money is no object. Intercooler etc..

Any high figures??

If money was no object 400HP would be possible.

All be it unreliable.

Hmm 400 doesnt sound realistic at all. Id be happy if I could get it to around 300. New trubo, exhaust and intercooler with lpg injection what would I come up with?

TheBigBoy wrote:Hmm 400 doesnt sound realistic at all. Id be happy if I could get it to around 300. New trubo, exhaust and intercooler with lpg injection what would I come up with?

not that much without pump mods.

Well with what ever good modifications any suggests. Im new to diesel hp. Impress me . Can I get to 250 - 300 bhp?

Should be I've seen a GQ put down 250 in a local dyno comp. No idea of tune however but it did get driven regularly.

Bottom end:

Hbeam rods
Dished Forged pistons
Nitrated Crank
Good set of bearings.

Top end:

Larger intake valves
Port/polish
Nitrated valves
Heavier valve springs
New custom cam with a few thou more lift
Extractor style intake manifold with 100mm mixer

Accessorys:

Dual BB turbo
4" intake
2.5" pressure side
Laminova 4 core slant orientated intercooler
3" exhaust
80%meth/water injection
Variable rate NOS injection
LPG pre turbo fumigation

Pump:

1HD pump internals
7psi inline charge pump





With this much loving you'll have the fastest and most expensive 1hz ever built. 400hp+++

if you were so inclined you could aswell as the above bolt on a Sprintex supercharger with a AC magnetic clutch, Y pipe intake and pressure controlled gate valves to give massive amounts of low down torque lol...

I have a factory turbo 80 auto 1HDFT with gas,garret and water to air no pump mods other than tweeking the aneroid, boost at about 24 psi doing just under 200HP at the wheels with mild EGT's, oil stays fairly clean change at 5K dark by then but not black like most 1HZ's that I have seen
So in my opinion the engine is reliable at this HP if not thrashed and keep an eye on your pyro when you are up it

MR Duck wrote:I have a factory turbo 80 auto 1HDFT with gas,garret and water to air no pump mods other than tweeking the aneroid, boost at about 24 psi doing just under 200HP at the wheels with mild EGT's, oil stays fairly clean change at 5K dark by then but not black like most 1HZ's that I have seen
So in my opinion the engine is reliable at this HP if not thrashed and keep an eye on your pyro when you are up it

that would work out at about 300 at the fly wheel not bad at all

I would go for one of the 4 valve engines factory turbo
the 100 series version puts out 202 hp at the fly wheel std
with the safari HO kit over 245hp thats with just computer and exhaust mods at std boost 16.5
getting an extra 60 hp out of one of these engines would be easier and more reliable than a 1hz

Hi all...The 1hz is the wrong engine to be modifying to be squeezing big HP out of even if money is no object.Start with any of the factory turbo engines as a good foundation.

Z()LTAN wrote:With this much loving you'll have the fastest and most expensive 1hz ever built. 400hp+++

Why would you spend that sort of money on indirect injected 1HZ with known head issues from turbo charging when the 1HD series are built for turbo.

Yanmar marine build 1HD series engines that put out huge HP and torue figures.

1HD for the win

I would love to add Eaton blower and a good intercooler to mine with a larger turbo compounding boost. Low down GRUNT with good mid range insanity
Have an Eaton M112 ready to go. With a deisels low down torque and relatively low redline, I reckon the eaton can be significantly overdriven without reving out of its efficient range, add a big turbo to up the volume of air

mickbeny wrote:Hi all...The 1hz is the wrong engine to be modifying to be squeezing big HP out of even if money is no object.Start with any of the factory turbo engines as a good foundation.

Am I missing somthing guys, BigBoy said a factory 4.2 turbo diesel. So that sortof rules out 1HZ's in Aus does'nt it ?

80's_delirious wrote:Yanmar marine build 1HD series engines that put out huge HP and torue figures.

Yep the 6LPA-STP2 , based on the 1HD-FT, is rated at 315HP / 232kW, obviously with much boost and copious cool sea water for intercooling.

I reckon that 250HP is fairly easy, mines about 230HP with front mount and Garrett.

I was asking because I was thinking of getting a 80 series factory turbo, or N/A and turboing it myself. For a play truck. I was hoping to just use the engine that comes with the truck. (Im sick of doing engine conversions) Just wanted to see how much I could get from it and still be reliable. Im running a gen3 in my other truck and just wanted to see the difference in power. Hopefully get it to 250 - 300bhp and id be happy.

power is a bit misleading when you're talking diesel, torque is where it's at, 600Nm is available on stock internals without pump modifications or LPG, but it still runs out of huff before 5000rpm.

[quote="dumbdunce"]power is a bit misleading when you're talking diesel, torque is where it's at, 600Nm is available on stock internals without pump modifications or LPG, but it still runs out of huff before 5000rpm.[/quote]
Dumbdunce
Can you please give us an idea on what mods need to be done to get this torque and what rev ranges it would be in?

diby_2000 wrote:

dumbdunce wrote:power is a bit misleading when you're talking diesel, torque is where it's at, 600Nm is available on stock internals without pump modifications or LPG, but it still runs out of huff before 5000rpm.

Dumbdunce
Can you please give us an idea on what mods need to be done to get this torque and what rev ranges it would be in?

intercool it, boost it to around 18psi (sounds a lot but 12 - 13 is standard), tweak the pump to generate reasonable EGT's on full noise. ideally, new turbo or turbo internals; the stock CT26 is on the limit around 15psi, 3" mandrel bent straight through exhaust. torque should build significantly from around 1400rpm with the peak around the 2500 mark, and still pulling strong at 4000.

there are cheapish fiddles you can do with the turbo, there are supra compressors/housings that bolt on to give more puff.

it sounds simple but there is obviously significant cost involved in turbo mods, intercooling and a tops exhaust, drive in/drive out it would be in the $5k ballpark to achieve it. If you want a truck that pulls like a train, obviously you have to spend more than a train fare

Be careful with ct26s though, half of them have ceramic wheel, above 14-16psi is asking for big problems, as the front wheel will do the disapearing trick. You can buy ct26 to t3, t4 etc etc etc adaptors cheap which saves on a new manifold.

berad wrote:Be careful with ct26s though, half of them have ceramic wheel, above 14-16psi is asking for big problems, as the front wheel will do the disapearing trick. You can buy ct26 to t3, t4 etc etc etc adaptors cheap which saves on a new manifold.

I don't think any landcruiser CT26 ever had a ceramic turbine. aren't the compressor fans all aluminium?

exploding ceramics aside, the toyota turbos obviously have limits and for big power/torque gains, an upgrade makes sense. there are some turbo shops who supply replacement cores and machine housings to match for the CT26 so from the outside it looks like a CT26 but it has garrett guts in it.

he celica and mr2 ct26, which has a twin entry turbine is the only ct26 to have ceramic....the cruiser turbos can handle up to 20 psi although the more you pump the quicker they wear...
Andrew

TheBigBoy wrote:How much hp can you get out of a 80 series cruiser 4.2td factory gxl or after market turbo system. Money is no object. Intercooler etc..

Any high figures??

Any thing is possible my 2F is good for 300kw @ the flywheel

I run a 1hz, balanced internals, hpc coated everything, garret turbo, air to air int, 25psi boost, modded fuel pump, makes 165rwkw and well over 1200nm from 1500rpm to 6000, and has been reliable now for over 3 years
http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm10 ... I_9377.flv

ads80 wrote:I run a 1hz, balanced internals, hpc coated everything, garret turbo, air to air int, 25psi boost, modded fuel pump, makes 165rwkw and well over 1200nm from 1500rpm to 6000, and has been reliable now for over 3 years
http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm10 ... I_9377.flv

you need to bolt a 1HDFT head to that thing.

why???????????

ads80 wrote:why???????????

it will breath so much better than the indirect injection.

Shadow wrote:

ads80 wrote:why???????????

it will breath so much better than the indirect injection.

he would have to change pistons and conrods too. and injectors, lines, timing cover, inlet manifold, probably more. its not a simple swap.

ads80 wrote:I run a 1hz, balanced internals, hpc coated everything, garret turbo, air to air int, 25psi boost, modded fuel pump, makes 165rwkw and well over 1200nm from 1500rpm to 6000, and has been reliable now for over 3 years
http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm10 ... I_9377.flv

Nice vid, sounds

dumbdunce wrote:

Shadow wrote:

ads80 wrote:why???????????

it will breath so much better than the indirect injection.

he would have to change pistons and conrods too. and injectors, lines, timing cover, inlet manifold, probably more. its not a simple swap.

why?

What would the compression do with hz rods and pistons? Too high?

Shadow wrote:you need to bolt a 1HDFT head to that thing.

seems like it works great to me...

sounds PHAT