Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Posted: **Sat May 02, 2009 3:30 pm**

After cutting the rear quaters to suit a higher rear bar, im trying to decide what the best way to fill the open quater would be afterwards remembering that i dont have a welder handy.

Ive put a litte bit of thougt into expanding foam and epoxy fiberglass but im pretty sure even after roughing the metal up, the fiberglass wont stick to it.

Any suggestions, tips, toughts would be appreciated

Posted: **Sat May 02, 2009 3:36 pm**

You can buy good panel glue that manufacture's use to glue on door skins etc. Its very good but a little pricey.

You best bet is to find someone who could weld it for you. I'd weld it up for you if you were in Adelaide.

Foam or similar sounds dodgey to me, I wouldn't do it to my car thats for sure.

/my 2 cents

Posted: **Sat May 02, 2009 3:36 pm**

sikaflex a steel cutout in there with some bent tabs

Posted: **Sat May 02, 2009 7:44 pm**

Have you priced paying someone to weld one in ??
Personally i would rather do the job right first time.
Cut the steel get someone to weld it in. Hirer a welder.

Posted: **Sat May 02, 2009 8:21 pm**

all good points, if anyone in syd wants to weld it up for me pm me and we will talk in beers or cash for your time.

Posted: **Sat May 02, 2009 9:18 pm**

get some sikaflex.
its used to glue in commodore firewalls so it will be more than strong enough. there are a few grades so ask when your buying it.

Posted: **Sat May 02, 2009 11:19 pm**

Sikaflex is a good idea IMHO.

Just bend up a nice panel in a U shape so its a tight fit and glue it in there.

(if you can't get a mate to weld)

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 9:50 am**

Just dont use expanding foam, it traps water between it and the steel which obviously rusts everything.

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 5:53 pm**

and with stickaflex it wont burn the paint, mine was done that way and hasn't fallen for the last 5 years

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 7:12 pm**

Sikaflex is the shiza...

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 7:36 pm**

welding is the go i did mine this weekend looks awesome and whole thing welded in

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 7:39 pm**

if you cant weld, or cant be bothered organsing to get it welded, sikaflex is weld in a tube. It would be ur next best bet .

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 7:59 pm**

jees kyle, you cant be much of a boilermaker if you cant produce a weld stronger than sikaflex

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 8:15 pm**

85lux wrote:jees kyle, you cant be much of a boilermaker if you cant produce a weld stronger than sikaflex

well we dont use wlelders at work, we normally just do all our heavy structual stuff with sikaflex and rivets

when are you gonna wire my car up for me you lazy bastard lol, My new coil comes in this week wooooooo

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 8:37 pm**

They use sikaflex for holding bus bodies together these days without welding or riverts. It allows panels to flex instead of being stretched or stressed causing work hardening, making them brittle. I used sikaFLEX on mine and have driven half way round Aust and back in the last three mths and the panels are still there and water tight.
Just trace out the shape you need on cardboard before you cut sheatmetal out, make tabs to overlap original body work, sikaflex in and no burnt paint.

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 8:38 pm**

I always thought they had to pretension the panels on buses over the framework then rivet them in place to stop panel warping. Have the come up with some other way to stop the warping have they?

You dont happen to work for Hafele do ya btw?

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 8:42 pm**

300WinMag wrote:They use sikaflex for holding bus bodies together these days without welding or riverts. It allows panels to flex instead of being stretched or stressed causing work hardening, making them brittle. I used sikaFLEX on mine and have driven half way round Aust and back in the last three mths and the panels are still there and water tight.
Just trace out the shape you need on cardboard before you cut sheatmetal out, make tabs to overlap original body work, sikaflex in and no burnt paint.

thanks for the reply, sounds like a plan

Posted: **Sun May 03, 2009 8:51 pm**

Yes, they have and no I don't work for who ever Hafele is.
My old man also used sikaflex to hold panels in his cattle crate without rivets or fasteners and it is still going strong after five years.

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2009 1:05 pm**

300WinMag wrote:They use sikaflex for holding bus bodies together these days without welding or riverts. It allows panels to flex instead of being stretched or stressed causing work hardening, making them brittle. I used sikaFLEX on mine and have driven half way round Aust and back in the last three mths and the panels are still there and water tight.
Just trace out the shape you need on cardboard before you cut sheatmetal out, make tabs to overlap original body work, sikaflex in and no burnt paint.

yep 100%, ive been part time at a bus depot for bout 3yrs now and we occasionally have to take the sides of busses to get there 25yr frame inspection (rust,crack etc), all of the sides that we take off are ally and riveted in and do get a bit of a ripple down the side, BUT the sides we put back on (stocks ones get munted getting them off) are fiberglass things that we maybe put one or 2 rivets in just to get the position and level ok (normally about 10-11m long) then they are sikaflexed on and hey presto a nice level ripple free side.

however as good as sikaflex is its like paint, ie 80% proper prep work for it to work properly. so make sure everything is clean and has ahd a going over with wax and grease remover more than once and put some sika primer on the bits you want to stick.

some of the newer busses that ive helped take the side off (5-10yrs) some only had heaps of double sided tape!!!!!!

and that seemed to hold ok (side was coming off for structural work).

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2009 2:55 pm**

the easiest way is to go to the dollar shop and buy 2 plastic breadboards, cut to shape and sikaflex (clips in a can) them in. just use masking tape to hold them overnight.

you could even drill a drain hole in if you needed to and plastic means no rust. just make sure you seal the cut edges well.

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2009 3:46 pm**

Have you checked out this link:

Mud Rhino Patrol Rear Quarter Chop

Thats how i'll be doing mine.

Just remember that when you weld, you also burn/peel off the paint on the other side of the metal, which would mean that do do it "properly", you ould then need to seal or etch prime the inner side of your rear quarters.

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2009 6:38 pm**

When you make your cut leave 25mm to fold under, this will hold your metal sheet replacement plate up, provide overlap and a nice smooth folded corner that looks original once painted.
No riverts no welding. Fit sheet metal from the inside, use acetone to prep surfaces for sikaflex, stick plate in place allow to set then bog the joins, sand and paint. Asper Rihno instruction.

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2009 7:26 pm**

300WinMag wrote:

When you make your cut leave 25mm to fold under, this will hold your metal sheet replacement plate up, provide overlap and a nice smooth folded corner that looks original once painted.
No riverts no welding. Fit sheet metal from the inside, use acetone to prep surfaces for sikaflex, stick plate in place allow to set then bog the joins, sand and paint. Asper Rihno instruction.

Man now that is a fuggley quarter infill

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2009 7:59 pm**

Where your work of art then.

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2009 8:27 pm**

300WinMag wrote:Where your work of art then.

considering I'm a panel beater by trade I think that my efforts maybe slightly better.

what lets that down, is all that shit you plastered underneath. You should have just put a plate in seam sealed it (with sikafex or seam sealer) and then body deadened it and it would have looked semi factory/legal.
that looks like you tried to bogg it up after drinkining a slab or two and any cop or roads officer would defect you for that just because it looks bad.

Im sorry if Ive hurt your feelings Im just telling you the way I see it.
Ive seen just about every way of doing something like that and I don't think thats a good way of finishing your work off.

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2009 8:40 pm**

ajsr wrote:
300WinMag wrote:Where your work of art then.
considering I'm a panel beater by trade I think that my efforts maybe slightly better.

what lets that down, is all that shit you plastered underneath. You should have just put a plate in seam sealed it (with sikafex or seam sealer) and then body deadened it and it would have looked semi factory/legal.
that looks like you tried to bogg it up after drinkining a slab or two and any cop or roads officer would defect you for that just because it looks bad.

Im sorry if Ive hurt your feelings Im just telling you the way I see it.
Ive seen just about every way of doing something like that and I don't think thats a good way of finishing your work off.

A can of white paint will fix all that!

Then no-one would know the difference.

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2009 8:55 pm**

I will take your point on the chin, there is actually a steel panel under it, and that was no where near finished. All you can see now is a nice rolled steel panel from side on. I am no panel beater thats for sure, I hate it, but would rather do it myself and know whats in there, than pay a fortune just to find out its chicken wire and bog.
Do you have any tips for using bog in 40 deg C+ and 99% humidity?

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2009 9:17 pm**

300WinMag wrote:I will take your point on the chin, there is actually a steel panel under it, and that was no where near finished. All you can see now is a nice rolled steel panel from side on. I am no panel beater thats for sure, I hate it, but would rather do it myself and know whats in there, than pay a fortune just to find out its chicken wire and bog.
Do you have any tips for using bog in 40 deg C+ and 99% humidity?

put the can of bog in the fridge for 1/2 and hour to cool it off and use 2/3rd's the amount of hardner. it will take about 4 - 5 times longer to go hard.
the trick is to get some 36 grit paper and get to the bog when its like cheese (don't let it go properly hard) and great it down like cheese until you get the basic shape but leave it a little full,its really quick and you will get the shape easier. then once you have the basic shape and its a little full/high let it go hard and then finish.
cheers andrew

Posted: **Wed May 06, 2009 10:43 am**

Thanks mate, I will do that next time, it was pissing me off before, had to make about five small batchs just to do each side, was going off to quick and getting lots of air bubbles, hence the stop putty. I still have to finish my bonnet scoop, so I will wait till it gets bellow 30 deg through the day before I attempt that.

Posted: **Wed May 06, 2009 2:50 pm**

LMAO ajsr its a 4wd who really gives a toss. Looks to me like his done alright, can of paint and she will be right. Better then i would do it and much better then it NEEDS to be.

If it where me i wouldnt even be bogging it, silo a section in and silo around the seams on the outside to make sure its water tight and paint the silo. It gets covered by a rear bar anyway. Call me dodgey but i would rather put time effort and money into things other then making the underside of my fourbie look "factory"

aslong as its water tight in the joins and theres no bare metal she'll be right

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