Page 1 of 1

High pressure hose

Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 1:59 pm
by hudson44
I have a compressor and 2lt tank setup under the bonnet and currently run about 2 feet of standard air hose from the comp to the tank. The problem is after a few weeks the hose becomes brittle due to the heat and pops a hole.

Anyone else running a similar under bonnet set-up that can recommend a hose to use and where i may find some? I'm thinking some sort of heat resistant high pressure hose (aircon hose). Was going to go and see Enzed but thought i might run it by the outers oracle.

Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 3:09 pm
by mhgill
I would go see Pirtek or Enzed and see what they have to offer.

Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:47 pm
by bigbluemav
mhgill wrote:I would go see Pirtek or Enzed and see what they have to offer.
They'll have heat proof pressure line. I had the same problem with my set up. The stuff that I have seen is plain black and looks like its covered with thin cotton bandage. Use it to run from the compressor to the tank. Out of the tank you'll be fine with std blue HP line.

Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 8:54 pm
by hammey
stainless braid teflon. its not cheap though :bad-words: it will cost you about 80-100 bucks depending on what ends you want.

its what we use between the compressors on the mtu diesels and the cooling coils.

cheers smity

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 11:13 am
by mrw82
hammey wrote:stainless braid teflon. its not cheap though :bad-words: it will cost you about 80-100 bucks depending on what ends you want.

its what we use between the compressors on the mtu diesels and the cooling coils.

cheers smity

2nd vote for the stainless teflon hose (I used to work for enzed) although you have to set it up so that it doesn't rub on anything as there is no outer cover to protect the braid. you could get them to sleeve it in some clear hose to help protect it.


the hose that bigbluemav is talking about is airbrake hose for trucks, it will last longer then standard air hose but it is not designed to handle the heat generated directly from the compressor so it will still go brittle over time and crack and leak. it will be cheaper then the stainless teflon hose and you may decide it's worth trying as (depending on use) you might be lucky to get a year or 2 out of it.

but the stainless teflon is a little bit of underbonnet bling too.

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 1:09 pm
by nastytroll
I'd go 2 wire hydraulic hose, no extrenal hose to rub through stuff

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 4:55 pm
by hudson44
What about air con hose? Surely that is exposed to different temps and seems to withhold.

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 4:56 pm
by bogged
hudson44 wrote:What about air con hose? Surely that is exposed to different temps and seems to withhold.
why not spend the $100 and get the right shit so its fixed once and for all?

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 5:25 pm
by hudson44
bogged wrote:
hudson44 wrote:why not spend the $100 and get the right shit so its fixed once and for all?
Thats what i'm asking bruce. Would A/C hose be suitable? Air con hose can withstand up to 300psi and more, but is it only suited to a liquid. Yes bogged, gas when compressed becomes a liquid.

Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 7:07 pm
by nastytroll
A/C hose is much stiffer then 2 wire hydraulic hose but should be fine.

I will be doing ours in Ryco Avenger T2 hydraulic hose, I have some off cuts from my last job I will be using.

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 8:45 am
by mrw82
if using aircon hose or hydraulic hose for compressed air you need to pin prick the outer cover every inch of the entire length of the hose otherwise the air will permeate through the inner core causing the outer cover to bubble.
DO NOT pin prick too deep or you'll have a leaking hose, you only want holes in the outer cover of the hose you don't want to go through the braid to the inner core.

the airbrake hose wont have this problem and the stainless teflon hose wont have this problem.
by the time you crimp fittings onto hydraulic hose your not going to be much cheaper then the stainless teflon hose.

the fittings you will likely need are BSP. air con fittings dont come in BSP and you would need adaptors etc. this looks messy and adds to the cost.

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 5:06 pm
by guzzla
BBM have a tough airline sold per metre. Used it myself without any issues. It pays to double up on the hose clamps too and don't forget to use good quality SS ones at that.

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 5:36 pm
by Shadow
could you not run a short stint of copper, about 30cm's, to dissapate the heat, then your standard hose after that?

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 7:55 pm
by fester2au
What about the poly hose that is used in the clip lock fittings. Sorry don't know correct name but those fittings that have the collar that locks the hose but can still be removed. You know like ARB diff line fittings.

I got some fittings and hose from Norgren to do my air lines as I wanted to run fittings from the tank (under middle of truck) to Nitto type fittings on front and rear. The guys at Norgren assured me I could also use that same hose from the compressor to the tank and it would handle the heat. Haven't got around to fitting it yet though so not sure.

Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 10:39 pm
by mrw82
fester2au wrote:What about the poly hose that is used in the clip lock fittings. Sorry don't know correct name but those fittings that have the collar that locks the hose but can still be removed. You know like ARB diff line fittings.
nylon tube is what your referring to and I would have said no for coming straight out of the compressor. it too will go brittle from the heat and then crack. the up side to using nylon tube with pushfit fittings is that aslong as you carry a spare length of hose you can easily replace it in a matter of minutes if it does blow. and it's cheap too.

all the hoses that have been mentioned can handle the pressure no problem at all. even standard air hose is good for 300psi working pressure (which means it has a burst pressure of 1200psi.) it is the temperature which causes the problem.
I personally run an endless air setup with a stainless teflon outlet hose which runs directly above the extractors into a check valve and pressure switch which then runs bundy tube to the tank under the tray. there is a short piece of standard air hose between bundy tube and tank of course.
I have not had a single problem with this setup and i've been running it for a couple of years now.