Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G`day guys,
I was wondering whats involved in doing a body lift on a 40 series.
I took a look at it about a year ago and thought" too much hassle to do myself" I`m thinkin of taking anther look at it...

Any sugestions?

I wouldnt bother.. They look strange around the rear cross member, dificult to tidy up.. Steering needs to be relocated, and all the usual things to fix. For what reason do you want to do this?

your steering column to steering box is the hardest part of the lift, the rest is easy. As for the rear of the chassis I used a 2"x2" box section right across the rear & the same at the front.

I thought last time that the steering would be the difficult part of the job...

I was thinking bout going up to sqeeze in bigger tyres....

what size tires? do it properly and lift the suspension i say

My hard top runs 33x10.5s with stock sagged springs, rear perches redrilled to relocate axle rearward 40mm and rear wheel openings trimmed.. I trimmed the rear openings because the PO had beat them up with a hammer..

My soft top runs 35x10.5 on king springs, whatever lift they provide.. The rear openings are cut, the PO did this.. Bump stops tweaked to suit.

With SOA this setup would clear 37s easy..

G`day guys,
I was thinking of putting 35" centrepedes. but was unsure if they would clear the guards..... cause I`ve got a line on a set for a very reasonable price....
so many set up configureations..... too many to decide on!!!

2-3" suspension lift will easy clear 35s. Might rub a bit, but on inner side guards, not the top.

If its an early model tub (with tank under the seat) the rear tyres will definately rub on the body at the front of the tyre opening. Depending on the offset of your rims you'll need to cut a fair bit of the rear guard to clear it, you also might need to move the rear diff back a bit to clear the front of the opening or it will rub the body there. On the front, you'll have to extend your bump stops a fair bit or it will rub up inside the top of the guard when flexing. You'll also have to adjust your steering stops to stop the tyre rubbing your tie rod. I'd try and make it fit without the body lift if you can. I went the body lift option and would try not to if I had my time over again.

G`day guys,

Yep it`s an early body... 1977 Fj40, with the tank under seat. as far as the bump stops... yep I new that already

The steering isnt a problem as I am having power steering put in over next month or so. So rubbing the tie rod ends won`t be a problem, They wont be in the way.

Cuttin the rear guards and the front guards I figured that out, As far as the back I was gong to cut out as much as needed, and fit a custom extended guard. Didn`t know about relocating the rear diff though.

The front guards were going to get ditched and custom steel guards fabricated, wider and flatter I was going to incorperate side rails in their construction. And The suspension has been lifted already.Albeit not much.

Back spacing the wheels is somthing I had thought about, seeing as I want to use two sets of tyres (one set only for road and one set for off road), I have to buy another set of rims anyway

I`m a welder and sheetmetal fabricator so fabrication work is easy.... mechanical mods a little bit of a stretch though. hence all the questions.

Well in that case I think the best thing for you to do is get a hold of a set of 35s, fit them on and see for yourself where you need to modify.

You might not have the same problem but depending on the actual size of the 35 you are going to run, it may hit here:



Later tubs dont have that panel in the same spot so its not as much of a problem.

Cheers,
It sounds like a plan... like every thing else unless I try I wont know... Well it looks like the body lift is history ....
cheers all for the advice I realy apreciate it