Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just a couple of quick questions for the experts. I have a HZJ75 ute with a leaky rear transfer case seal.
Can the seal be accessed from the rear after removing the yoke or does the bearing retainer need to be removed?
Is the Toyota seal good or is there a better “terrain tamer multi lip extra special magic seal” that I should use?
Is the nut easy to remove , the seal easy to pull out (and any thing else I’ve forgotten) or is a job better left to a mechanic.

Or


Should I put up with the leak?


Yep! I did search.

Any links, hints, pictures, comments appreciated.

the nut was a Cookie to remove on my fj45 transfer

had to drill the side of the nut to split it before it would come off.

Cracked a sidchrome 32mm socket (much to the disgust of my father lol) trying to rattle it off.

That's not what I wanted to hear. What about geting the seal out?

Never done a seal in HZ so i will leave that to others to comment, but as for what seals to use, usually genuine is the best way to go.

Remove the companion flange then pull the seal straight out.

I would go a genuine seal.

Sounds like I'll need a nut splitter and a new nut. Thanks for the replies. I will go with the genuine seal.

ozdave wrote:Sounds like I'll need a nut splitter and a new nut. Thanks for the replies. I will go with the genuine seal.

Give it a crack first

just drop your tailshaft and put a rattle gun on it, might just spin off.

I may have just had a bad one :(

Shadow wrote:

ozdave wrote:Sounds like I'll need a nut splitter and a new nut. Thanks for the replies. I will go with the genuine seal.

Give it a crack first

just drop your tailshaft and put a rattle gun on it, might just spin off.

I may have just had a bad one :(

You will probably find that the edge of the nut has been peened (probably not the correct term but thats what I call it) onto the shaft to lock it in place. You'll know what I mean when you look at it. Its to stop the nut coming undone. You'll need to get a small chisel and tap the peened section out so it clears the thread. Then it should be fairly easy to rattle undone. Make sure you re-peen the nut to the shaft when you've put it back together.

socket with long breaker bar resting against the chassis and drop the clutch in gear. Dont remember if use foward or reverse gear through and slightly dangerous/dodgey

Jacked wrote:socket with long breaker bar resting against the chassis and drop the clutch in gear. Dont remember if use foward or reverse gear through and slightly dangerous/dodgey

on my fj45 couldnt do this cause it would crush the exhaust before it hit the chassis.

also, didn't try it cause its dodgy as fuck.

RAY185 wrote:
You will probably find that the edge of the nut has been peened (probably not the correct term but thats what I call it) onto the shaft to lock it in place. You'll know what I mean when you look at it. Its to stop the nut coming undone. You'll need to get a small chisel and tap the peened section out so it clears the thread. Then it should be fairly easy to rattle undone. Make sure you re-peen the nut to the shaft when you've put it back together.

any rattle gun worth its name will be able to spin the nut regardless of the peened in section, unless the nut is stuck good n proper.

Shadow wrote:

RAY185 wrote:
You will probably find that the edge of the nut has been peened (probably not the correct term but thats what I call it) onto the shaft to lock it in place. You'll know what I mean when you look at it. Its to stop the nut coming undone. You'll need to get a small chisel and tap the peened section out so it clears the thread. Then it should be fairly easy to rattle undone. Make sure you re-peen the nut to the shaft when you've put it back together.

any rattle gun worth its name will be able to spin the nut regardless of the peened in section, unless the nut is stuck good n proper.

9 times out of 10 this is true. I have come across quite a few now that simply wont rattle off untill the peened section is tapped out.

RAY185 wrote:

Shadow wrote:

RAY185 wrote:
You will probably find that the edge of the nut has been peened (probably not the correct term but thats what I call it) onto the shaft to lock it in place. You'll know what I mean when you look at it. Its to stop the nut coming undone. You'll need to get a small chisel and tap the peened section out so it clears the thread. Then it should be fairly easy to rattle undone. Make sure you re-peen the nut to the shaft when you've put it back together.

any rattle gun worth its name will be able to spin the nut regardless of the peened in section, unless the nut is stuck good n proper.

9 times out of 10 this is true. I have come across quite a few now that simply wont rattle off untill the peened section is tapped out.

x100. i dont even bother trying without bending the section back, have even stuffed the thread on a fwd cv joint because of it!

the factory manual for my hj60 states 325 ft-lb companion flange nut farrk my torque wrench will need to be 3ft long wonder if its same for hzj75